Recent content by David A. Frattaroli

Guess I'm late to the party but I thought I'd chime in. I just picked up a new set of Athena Point 5 Mk IIs for $175 and ordered a Hsu STF-1 to go with it. I'll post back when they've been delivered and tested.

The two green leads get twisted together and inserted into the same terminal (Ground). I didn't think they would fit but if you keep the strands tight and straight as possible, they will slip firmly into the cup.

I used rabet joints when making mine. Dadoes inside for the braces.

Here's mine. Link Removed Link Removed

To minimize the effort, start with 400 then move to 600. I would also suggest finishing at a much higher grit like 1200 or 1500 but only for the final coat. When you move to a higher grit the object is to remove all the scratch marks from the previous grit. This is how you know you're done with...

Ryan, you're going to be cutting driver holes in your baffle by making multiple light passes. So, a fixed base router will allow you to drop the bit into the work piece without disrupting the perfect circle. I've done it. It works fine. Remember, you should be cutting away about 1/8" of inch of...

Joe, did you have to break yours in or did you notice improvements right away? What kind of improvements or changes did you notice? Thanks.

I'm with you, Joe. Here's the one I made. Instructions and more pics on my site: Link Removed under the DIY section. I also have instructions for mounting an IEC connector to a component in order to make the cables interchangeable. Link Removed

I've used a Rotozip before and think they stink for MDF. I found that the circle jig had way too much play as well. You need a 1.5HP (or more) router. As far as plunge or fixed base is concerned, plunge is nice but not necessary since you never want to cut through 3/4" MDF in one pass anyway...

I have the Canare crimper and stripper and can say they are worth their weight in gold. I know some will challenge you to justify the cost but I don't think you should have to. They work great. I've used mine to make many cables.

I have directions for the one I made on Link Removed

Um, how do you "demagnetize" a laser?

I use a Radio Shack Mutlimeter and test for continuity. It beeps for confirmation. Then, I usually dump the cable into my old office system and use it as a guinea pig before it goes into the HT.

Jeff, you're making the right choice by making your own. Even if you splurge for the Canare stripper and crimper as I've done, you'll end up making cables that are easily as good or better than the Monster cables and for less money per foot.

Prove it. :)