Recent content by Dan Halchak

I agree with Tim, I looked through the collection and found some major holes in it as far as stuff to demo/reference by. Not saying my collection is complete. Definitely pick up any or all of the ones listed in here and get to pure visual and audio nirvana!!!! :)

Tommy, I would highly recommend looking at the Cambridge Audio Azur 640c, it can be had for $450 shipped and is the best player I've come across under the $1000 mark. I even like it better than the Arcam CD72. The WM8716 24-bit/ 192kHz DAC in this thing is amazing and easily as good if not...

You could also checkout something like the Philip's SL300i or SL400i which will allow you to play/watch videos/and view pictures directly from your PC or Internet (if you have a network at home (wired or wireless). Pretty neat device and works really well. Can be found here: www.streamium.com

The SVS WILL crush the B&W. My PC+ 20-39 is very compareable to the N800 sub... So the PB12-ISD would easily play lower, better, and not have the "boominess" of the B&W. I went through the B&W 600, 650, 675, 800, and 850 before I settled on the SVS...and it by far has impressed me far more...

Since you are going to be watching movies mainly, I would HIGHLY recommend the RSP-1068 and say the RMB-1075/95 depending on your money situation. The 1068 will destroy the 1055 for HT usage, plus you'll have the power to really push your speakers and be amazed at how they really sound with this...

I was one that never thought there could be a big difference in a say $400, $800, $2400 Pre-amp.... Now I can say with out a doubt, there is a definite difference... I went from an old Pioneer Dolby Pro Logic Receiver (maybe 400 at the time, to a Yamaha Receiver (about 800). This made a...

I don't know who told you that from Yamaha, but that's just not true. Even the lowest model Yamaha outputs the full channel of sound and is not "made" for satelite/subs. Unless it's a specific Home Theater in a Box... but the model you bought will output a full range 20-20K signal without any...

I'd go and buy all three... :) Demo them all (two polks and SVS), return whatever you think sounds "worse." I imagine you should be able to return the polks without any problem, and the SVS you definitely can return if you don't think it sounds better than the Polks. ...but I've always...

I had and still have the Yamaha rx-v1400 and it's one heck of a receiver for it's price! The up-conversion on it is phenominal, I had everything running through it and had no problems what so ever. The quality of the Yamaha is better than the Pioneer I'm starting to find out... I just...

I have the 1095 as well and I think the Rotel matched up with my B&Ws is along the lines of being bright...might be slightly laid back and warm...though it's a tough call. I think I'm used to very bright and detailed things as I love the Yamaha's receivers...which are said to be bright...

Jim, what are you looking for? I can hook you up with a bunch of places if you let me know what models you are wanting to look at and if you will be closer to Grove City or Pittsburgh...

I disagree, if you are happy with the sound you have from your receiver, adding an amp will only enhance that quality of sound. A lot of times people mistake the lack of good quality sound for a lack of features on the processor when in reality its just the lack of power from it. I'm with...

Scott, you might want to try moving the center channel more to the right on top of the TV, it will give you a better "center" presence to the sound stage. Just because your TV is a little bit left, you won't notice it a whole lot if you move it some. I imagine that will help with imaging. :)...

I've had my PC+ 20-39 for almost 8 months now. Love it. Only thing I can complain about...is it's not a PB12-Ultra/2. :D But I guess I can live with the PC+ until I can get it... It's tough wanting to get so many things and limited to what you can get because of funds... :)

You are correct, just add a splitter, then you will want to calibrate both subs (each individually), then calibrate them as a whole (where if you turn one down, turn the other down the same amount (roughly). You might notice some phase issues if you don't have them co-located...so be aware of...