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Access to Resistor Values on Maytag Machine Control Board?


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#1 of 7 OFFLINE   Mary M S

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Posted May 15 2002 - 09:51 AM

This is a shot in the dark!. Anyone amongst the vast collective knowledgeable base of this Forum have access to the Schematic for the resistor Values on a Maytag Neptune Washer 'Household Control Board?



I am desperate to try the quick fix instead of ordering and waiting on the entire board. One resistor is blackened and seems to be the problem.



MAYTAG SERVICE CENTER, does not want to give a housewife this information!!! Posted Image



If anyone has this information the Model # on the Neptune is MAH30000AWW

The Machine control board has a # top left of the board # 8149



The Resistor value I'm looking for (Its melted can't see the color banding) is # R11.

We probably should replace # R75 also due to its extreme proximity, which heat might have affected.



THANK THANK YOU. Trying to access this info this afternoon before the electronics store closes.

Disappearing in dirty clothes!

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#2 of 7 OFFLINE   Mary M S

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Posted May 15 2002 - 02:12 PM

Okay, This is probably not a burning issue around here, (its' burning me up today). I have sorted things out myself. If any own the older model Neptune washer, (mine's 3 1/2 years old) with the manual control buttons, vs the LCD and LED newer touch-screen models. Post and I will tell you how to damage control (if you DIY) for a issue that is a 500-700 dollar hired repair job, on an appliance that costs 1K to 1,300. new. (The problem corrected relates to when the unit will not go into the 'spin' cycle.)
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#3 of 7 OFFLINE   Ryan Wright

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Posted May 15 2002 - 08:52 PM

Hey Mary,



I'd be interested in the fix. I don't own this model of washer and probably never will, I simply want to laugh at the con artists that want to charge that kind of money for what is probably half an hour's work and, what, $2 in parts?



Give us the gory details!! Posted Image

#4 of 7 OFFLINE   Todd Hochard

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Posted May 16 2002 - 06:58 AM

I have this washer. The only problem I have is that the rubber inside the door (the large gray piece) has mold/mildew spots on it. Can't seem to get it out. I'd be interested in your findings, though. If this thing breaks after 3.5 years, I'm going to be pissed! That's why I bought a Maytag! Todd
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#5 of 7 OFFLINE   Jay H

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Posted May 16 2002 - 07:46 AM

Well, maybe this makes you feel a little better. We had a Maytag dishwasher since like 20 years, we've replaced the spring in the door like twice!! The thing that eventually killed it was the timer. There is a timer underneath the whole shebang, looks mechanical in nature, unlike today's digital electronic timers. Anyway, this timer has to control the cycles from wash, rinse, dry, etc.. But the timer was flaky sometimes such that it would have a problem sometimes going from the wash to rinse. We'd have to listen for the problem, as the dishwasher was very loud, unlike today's modern ones, and then go in there with a screwdriver and manually advance the cycle. Eventually we got tired of this and got a newer one when we redid our entire kitchen, but it was a great dishwasher and lasted a helluva long time.



Of course, we replaced our stove and refridgertor and we've had to fix the brand new stove, twice, the main computer board had to be replaced already, and we had a mechanical problem with our KitchenAid refridgerator with a bolt coming out and the threads stripped. Sheesh. Don't make em like they used to! Posted Image



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#6 of 7 OFFLINE   Mary M S

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Posted May 16 2002 - 08:00 AM

I LOVE my Neptune washer, we have low water pressure in a 60 yr old house, It fills much quicker, accommodates a bigger load than any machine on the market, and uses a lot less water, cleans great. However, for 1K it should not have major components going out after only 3 ½ (admittedly heavy usage) years. (I agree with 'They just don’t make these like they used to'.) We used to DIY due to money, now we order in help due to the husbands time constraints, although I’m beginning to wonder why, we still seem to always end of doing half of it ourselves! The machine stopped going into high spin. So after each cycle (3 rinses) it was not getting rid of each cycle of old water, and after what should be final spin was so wet, you could not wring clothes out enough for the dryer. I’m in a hurry, trip coming up, called the REPAIRMAN. He was VERY nice, but he and I got into a cordial argument right away, because he declared it was the timer, that needed replacing. I disagreed, (for several common sense reasons) and told him to keep digging for the culprit. Finally, he came up with the Door lock malfunctioning, this made sense to me, due to the fact Maytag takes door locks seriously, the lock will not disengage a full minute after end of cycle, since small children can access a front loader easily. Door lock not engaging, = no high speed spin. We are in agreement. He orders the lock mechanism, and I wait in my dirty clothes for a week for his next visit. The lock arrives yesterday morning, installed, still no spin, so he digs deeper, and we find, the Household Control Board, (lots & lots of resistors) has one blackened resistor. He looks up part price, 350, for the board alone through his company. So, 220 for the Door lock unit (including labor), now 350 for the control board (before labor) we are up to 570 already on a unit that cost me 950 and is out of warranty except for the motor drive (10 yrs) and stainless tub (lifetime). I tell him don’t order the part yet, I will call him in the afternoon, in the meantime I decide to research. Tuns out the husband can replace resistors, but you can’t spot the value because it’s melted. So I tell him I’ll find out what it is so he can pick one up at Frys that night. When I call Maytag, they have no access to this information; they don’t want home owners replacing their own resistors, so you have to buy the whole board. I ask to speak to a supervisor, who I finally get hold of 4 hours later. Even longer story short, after some calls, The resistor that fried controls the Door lock mechanism, Maytag recommends in this scenario, the door lock and the control panel both replaced. I argued with Maytag, since I knew which resistor and could replace it for 25c, I considered it unreasonable of them to expect me to foot the cost for a whole board. (big board) They would not disclose the resistor value, but offered to pay half for the board. Maytag and the Parts store both seem to be aware that the control board resistor for the door lock will fry, and the control lock mechanism, (which I studied, after it was replaced also has small blackened areas, although the repairman did not spot that). Repair departments do not seem to be aware of this situation, and go fixing it piecemeal. My husband is picking up the board at a parts store this morning, we will map the value for the fried resistor from the new board, (we’ll make sure the architecture has not changed). Solder it and have a spare board, plus a future “resistor value’ template. We’ll plug the old board back in, and see if the one resistor replacement repairs it. If you know all this in advance, you can map the one resistor (R11), buy a new door lock mechanism, (since they fry together) and be good to go for about 100. Be aware, that as each years model in appliances have their own idiosyncrasies, that this situation applies to the model with the manual buttons, I purchased a year before the electronic key pads. It is a problem they are aware of however, because R11, when mentioned in my calls, made them all comment, oh that resistor controls the door lock, since there are approx. a hundred resistors on this board, (all numbered) that tells me its a fairly common occurrence.
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#7 of 7 OFFLINE   Mary M S

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Posted May 16 2002 - 08:34 AM

[quote]

I have this washer. The only problem I have is that the rubber inside the door (the large gray piece) has mold/mildew spots on it. Can't seem to get it out.

[quote]
Todd, This is a common complaint on Neptunes, I do laundry every day, so the water that 'seal well' area catches in the bottom of the door, is not a mildew issue for me, the water is freshened somewhat each time I run it.



For others the only fix I know of, is take a washrag and run it across that bottom well to absorb the extra water splashed in there. Its that high mositure content that sits in the door causing the seal to mildew all around.

(you could leave the door open for evaporation buts its really too much, plus uses up your light bulb.) Wipe the seal down with a clorex mix once in awhile.



Pain in the rear, but all and all, I do love this unit.

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