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gjk5

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The home I recently bought had the garage finished and turned into three useless rooms. I plan on knocking down the walls and making dedicated HT, rec room, mud room when I add the new garage (this will be in the next few months).

Would like input on how to utilize this space, it is approx 22X36X10 with an 11'X3' bumpout on the end (22') wall which will be the wall to the new garage. It is slab on grade with MIL above.

here is rough rendering, approx scale:

theater.PNG



I will be using freestanding speakers for all, AT screen most likely (thinking about putting stage and screen in bumpout?), projector, raised seating, two rows (need to seat at least 8). "East" door is hallway to main house, 25' to nearest living area, "south" door is exterior, most of "south and west" sides will be the new garage (that door will either become the man door to garage or the window adjacent to it will), "north" wall is one side of entry courtyard.

Any input appreciated.
 

Dr Griffin

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Well, I think it may be obvious, that the bump out area would be perfect for the screen with speakers behind in their own sort of pre-fabbed baffle area. This, of course, depends on the size of the screen and speakers you are considering. I'd go with a woven AT screen vs the perforated. It appears you have a lot of space. If you were using the entire room as a HT, I'd recommend multiple surrounds on the side and back walls. You could also keep the HT in the bumpout half of the room, and easily do a 5.1 setup, leaving the back half for the rec area. If you use the bump-out for speaker placement, I would treat the area as a baffle, with sound absorption all around.
 

schan1269

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Dr Griffin said:
Well, I think it may be obvious, that the bump out area would be perfect for the screen with speakers behind in their own sort of pre-fabbed baffle area. This, of course, depends on the size of the screen and speakers you are considering. I'd go with a woven AT screen vs the perforated. It appears you have a lot of space. If you were using the entire room as a HT, I'd recommend multiple surrounds on the side and back walls. You could also keep the HT in the bumpout half of the room, and easily do a 5.1 setup, leaving the back half for the rec area. If you use the bump-out for speaker placement, I would treat the area as a baffle, with sound absorption all around.
Wouldn't have said much different.And the OP already mentioned free-standing speakers...One thing I will mention...adding in a movable wall. Like schools have to close off certain areas. That way you could have it both ways. Proper sound "proof" theater...and wide open when needed. (Free standing speakers work with the concept, move your 2/4 speakers along the greater room wall/corner, then bring them back in when closed off. Did a similar concept for a homeowner to include the outside porch. When the rear towers were moved, we installed a 2nd set of in-wall binding posts. The interior wire for the speakers re-attached to the wall...which fed binding posts outside. Same concept as pre-out/in jumpers are certain receivers/integrated amps)
 

gjk5

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played with that floor planner software a little more last night

ht2.PNG


I was worried about putting the fronts in that bumpout (sub and center would be fine) would they sound OK behind the screen but close to the corners of the bumpout?


other concerns are getting seating positioned correctly since I am using freestanding.

I will be using paradigm monitor 7v4 fronts, cc350 center, PDR12, mini monitor surrounds
 

schan1269

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gjk5 said:
played with that floor planner software a little more last night

attachicon.gif
ht2.PNG

I was worried about putting the fronts in that bumpout (sub and center would be fine) would they sound OK behind the screen but close to the corners of the bumpout?

Yep. 11 feet is plenty. And, you "could" incorporate DSX width...


other concerns are getting seating positioned correctly since I am using freestanding.

Complete towers would be easiest....(no, they don't all need be 7s)

I will be using paradigm monitor 7v4 fronts, cc350 center, PDR12, mini monitor surrounds
Is that wall you put in permanent...or are you amenable to a movable wall?

Your seating is too far back. Back row should be closer to where the front row is(ie, slide it up to touching, then move front enough for walking...to about where you have that "audible curvature" marked*)...especially if doing 7.1. And you still have plenty of front row room for an enormous screen.

*Front row moved forward touching the audible curve. Then the 4/5 moved out of the corners along the sidewalls to where the "already marked" curves are then touching the backside of row 1.

Edit. Just noticed 7 is the smallest tower. Not kidding. 5 of them. Or 7 if 7.1.

No...not kidding.(repeated for emphasis)

(Where are you coming up with the CC350?)
 

gjk5

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schan1269 said:
Is that wall you put in permanent...or are you amenable to a movable wall? just playing with ideas, open to an accordion wall maybe

Your seating is too far back. Back row should be closer to where the front row is(ie, slide it up to touching, then move front enough for walking...to about where you have that "audible curvature" marked*)...especially if doing 7.1. And you still have plenty of front row room for an enormous screen. middle front seat is approx 9', how close do you suggest?

*Front row moved forward touching the audible curve. Then the 4/5 moved out of the corners along the sidewalls to where the "already marked" curves are then touching the backside of row 1. see below

Edit. Just noticed 7 is the smallest tower. Not kidding. 5 of them. Or 7 if 7.1. are you saying I need 5 of the towers?

No...not kidding.(repeated for emphasis)

(Where are you coming up with the CC350?) not sure what you mean?
I already have the speakers mentioned (with the exception of the 350, but have one found locally and also found a 450, I have a 170 from my old setup of monitors as fronts and the little satellites as surrounds) and a pretty decent receiver (Onkyo NR717). I am hoping to do this on a relatively small budget, framing, drywall and paint is nothing, electronics (and furniture) get expensive,

is this more what you meant?

ht3.PNG
 

Dr Griffin

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I'd use 3 matching speaker models for the screen channels. Even though L&R will be close to wall (I would bring them in a little closer), if you treat area as an extension of the speaker baffle by deadening, you will have an easier time eq-ing.
 

schan1269

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Much better...and future 7.1 is simpler.The AT screen is optimal for another Monitor 7. Paradigm are easy to sell.I sit 9 from a 120 16:9. 108 at 2.35:1.
 

gjk5

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OK, so if I am reading right you are saying forget the "center" and buy an additional 7 for the center channel? Will the mini monitors suffice for rears?

At any rate, the way it is laid oout above would put front middle seats at about 7.5' and rear middle at about 12' so I will play with it.
 

schan1269

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You are doing an AT screen...so yes. Three Monitor 7. Yes your current rears work. But, Paradigm is running a promo...buy a pair of towers...get a center. You "might" test the idea with your local dealer to trade in your current center/surrounds on 3 more 7. If they deal in prior owned goods...If the room split was half, 18 feet. From there you should plan a 9-11 foot main row. I think the "figure" couches were larger than reality(unless you really found 8 foot couches. Also depending on your age...a "friendlier environment" would be a bunch of 2 person love seats... My theatre is 3 futons.).I plan theatre rooms based on 2x the height of a 2.40 image. Never farther than 3x.If you have the cash...CIH. Totally worth it on that scale.(On the CC350...I was under the assumption you were buying new...350 is "not current")
 

gjk5

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I will try and work out the 7 for center, I just used the stock furniture in that program, but 8' is a pretty common size for 3 seater.

I may do a mix of loveseats and couches, we are mid 40's but have kids in elementary, no wild parties (at least until they go to bed....) and mostly family entertaining.

I like the idea of accordion door for convenience but hate it for esthetics (and sound). I may do a sliding "barn door" or two even, I will have some extra solid pine slabs anyway.....

something like this:

https://img1.etsystatic.com/029/0/7890346/il_fullxfull.619603489_dzyf.jpg
 

Dr Griffin

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I like the sliding barn door idea :) - mainly because a friend is seriously considering a home theater in a barn on his property.
 

schan1269

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Wayne_T said:
Just a friendly suggestion Gene, try posting with titles that pertain to your topic. "should i wait" is not going to interest many members and you will likely "wait" a long time for replies. "Should I wait for the Onkyo 797?" would probably generate a whole lot more interest.

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The bitterness of low quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has passed.
Actually, accordion doors...are for sound containment. They are almost as good as acoustic sheetrock. If you build the wall, use acoustical sheetrock.
 

gjk5

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that is strange.....

at any rate: never would have guessed that.

I will likely do an additional layer of acoustic rock over the existing sheetrock and do the new wall in acoustic. The sliding double barn door is growing on me though. Even a pocket barn door....
 

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