My Sub Stopped Working! (1 Viewer)

Hey guys.Got an issue going on tonight and hoping to maybe get a little help or insight as to what's going on.I have a Onkyo HT-RC270 AVR with a simple setup using the Infinity System TSS-800 speakers and sub. Had this set up a number of years, no issues.Tonight I was watching a movie and suddenly realized I had no bass. I went to check the sub and sure enough, not a peep coming from it.I've checked everything I can think of. I checked the cable at both ends. I tried a different sub connection in the back of my AVR. I usually have the sub connected through the sub's LFE input but even tried the other options, L and R. I power cycled the sub and receiver several times. When the sub turns on, I do hear a "click" inside like something is engaging.The sub is on and getting power and the light is green as if it's getting a signal but still no sound. My AVR configuration is set correctly, sub set to ON, etc. Just no sound. All the other speakers work fine during a tone test.I'm inclined to think this isn't the AVR, but I can't say for sure. This is the first time I have ever had any kind of speaker go out on me. I don't know if there is anything I can do? Anything I can test?The sub is probably about 6-7 years old so I suppose it's possible it just "went out."Looking for any ideas or thoughts on what my issue might be.Thank you!

Pull the amp and make sure the leads to the driver didn't fall off.Otherwise...Amp died orDriver froze(can you push on it, or is it frozen?).

Pull the amp as in take it apart?

I can still push on the speaker/woofer and it wobbles. Not sure if that tells you anything. I also don't detect any smells, like that anything fried. it's on a surge protector and everyhting else is fine so I doubt that's the case.

I'm guessing this isn't my AVR but is there a way to check, besides plugging in another sub? I tried 2 different Sub out ports on my AVR. No go.

I can still push on the speaker/woofer and it wobbles. Not sure if that tells you anything.

Click to expand...

Wobbling means you aren't pushing with even pressure. Did it move smoothly or make a scraping/scratching sound?

Your amp could have blown a fuse. A capacitor could have gone out. An output device could have overheated and blown. Your receiver settings may hve been changed to "sub off".

Surge protector isn't a magic wall when stopping surges. I've seen where lightning hit a tree, jumped 5 feet to a phone line tacked on the side of a house, go into the house and jump 2 feet from a jack to an electrical outlet and fry everything plugged into that room. Even things plugged into surge protectors.

Yes. Take the amp out.I meant even pressure on both sides of the driver. If you pushed it in on one side and angle pushed it and made the voice coil scrape....Start a bonfire with it(after removing the amp to throw it away).

I messed with the sub more last night.

1. I pushed on the cone and it seems to flex evenly. Near as I can tell there is no issue here.
2. I pulled the fuse on the sub and it seems fine to me. No burnt or damage on it. The sub does click ON. I can hear it. The indicator light is green. It just produces no sound whatsoever.

3. I tried to take the amp out of the sub box and when I got it off, everything was seal in a box with only 2 wires going out to the sub. I could not tell of any way to get INSIDE that box.

I been considering the fact that I might just need a new sub. On that note, should I post the ones I have in mind here, or make a new thread?

Thank you for your help and suggestions by the way.

The plate amp is sealed off from the driver? Rare, but some are built that way.Take the driver out...check it.The driver is even easier than the amp to remove.

Driver is the actual speaker, correct? When I had the amp off, I could see the inside of the speaker and all seemed ok. The two wires from the amp were still solidly connected.

I guess the amp being sealed limits what I can do, huh? This sub is part of the TSS-800 speaker system from Infinity. I'm sure it's nothing special, but it's been fine for my needs.

Adam Sanchez said:

Driver is the actual speaker, correct? When I had the amp off, I could see the inside of the speaker and all seemed ok. The two wires from the amp were still solidly connected.That isn't what you said the first time.

Click to expand...

Either you can get to the backside of the driver(yes, "the cone" is called a driver...) or you can't. If you can see it/get there, then the amp is not sealed off.And no. There isn't a whole lot worth doing to this sub. If it wasn't a simple "wire fell off" issue...Time to move to another sub. I wouldn't even bother turning this one passive.

Adam Sanchez said:

I messed with the sub more last night.1. I pushed on the cone and it seems to flex evenly. Near as I can tell there is no issue here.2. I pulled the fuse on the sub and it seems fine to me. No burnt or damage on it. The sub does click ON. I can hear it. The indicator light is green. It just produces no sound whatsoever.3. I tried to take the amp out of the sub box and when I got it off, everything was seal in a box with only 2 wires going out to the sub. I could not tell of any way to get INSIDE that box.I been considering the fact that I might just need a new sub. On that note, should I post the ones I have in mind here, or make a new thread?

Click to expand...

Keep going here...If any of them are...BIC V1020/1220, F12 or H100Lava LP10/12Dayton sub 1000/1200/1500*Those have been discussed to death. All of them are worth their cost.*Sub1500 is a new offering. If you decide on it, you'd be the first here(I think)

Thanks for your input Sam.

I can get the outer panel off the sub that has the connectors, knobs, etc, but when I pulled it was literally a sealed box. I can get into the wooden enclosure and see the backside of the speaker, but I can't get to any kind of innards of the amp whatsoever.

Been looking at subs all morning. I've been very productive at work this morning!

I didn't even know turning a sub to passive would be an option, but I wouldn't be interested in that, anyway.

Essentially turning a sub passive...A. Taking the power cord(If attached) off its internal amp connections, taking those wire ends and connecting the leads to the driver. Cut off the plug on the other end. Connect amp.2. Remove amp. Cut a piece of wood to size, cover hole. Put in a speaker terminal. Connect amp.

And yes. Power cords from 1000w small appliances make great speaker wire.So, before you throw away your next toaster, hair dryer etc...Take the cord off.

schan1269 said:

Essentially turning a sub passive... A. Taking the power cord(If attached) off its internal amp connections, taking those wire ends and connecting the leads to the driver. Cut off the plug on the other end. Connect amp. 2. Remove amp. Cut a piece of wood to size, cover hole. Put in a speaker terminal. Connect amp.

Click to expand...

Sam means connect a new amp. Like this 230 watt amp - http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa230-230w-subwoofer-amplifier--300-813 up to this 6,000 watt amp - http://www.guitarcenter.com/Behringer-iNUKE-NU6000-Power-Amp-107611147-i2271630.gc

Thanks for the recommendations.

First some specs on my setup, in case it helps with suggestions.

Receiver is a Onkyo HT-RC270 in a 5.1 setup.
Speakers are the rest of the TSS-800 satellite set my Sub800 was a part of. 5 equally sized Infinity speakers.
I'm in a townhouse, the living room is my home theater and it's about 16 by 24 maybe. I'm not sure. I use one end for my theater, the other end us the dining area so basically the section the theater is in is about 16 x 16.

My use for my sub is exclusively for movies. My sub's main use has always been to handle the low end, and to give me some rumble during a movie. I'm fairly easy to please. I want the sub to blend into the other sound but give me a decent Oomf.

Basically I was fine with the Sub800 and would not at all be looking at a new sub if I didn't need to. So basically anything equal to it or better would be ideal.

Fortunately I do happen to have some extra spending money and had been looking for something to buy. It looks like fate stepped in and gave me something I need!

I know this limits me but I would really like to stay around $150 for a budget. I realize just from looking a little last night and today there are some great subs out there for $200, but I think I can get something I'm happy with for about $150 or so.

Maybe someone could help me better understand the importance of Amp Wattage because I admit my thinking is rather limited on this and have always thought more is better with no exceptions. My receiver is 100 watt per channel so I've always figures a sub around the same wattage is idea.

Of the subs I looked at, one on the extremely cheap that caught my eye is the Polk PSW10. It caught my eye mainly due to the many good reviews on Amazon and the insanely low price. But then I see it's only 50W and I wonder if that would be any good for me.

On the other end of the spectrum, I discovered the BIC F12. Here is one for $200 that has 475W. I can't even image that. If I was somehow able to get my budget up to $200, I would image this would be the way to go. But what would I see in having 475Watts?

The other ones I have been seriously considering is the BIC V-80, Polk PSW110, and just this morning, the Dayton 1000/1200 fell onto my radar. I can actually get a 1200 cheaper than the 1000 on Amazon.

Side note, any sub I can get form amazon is preferred if possible. I have a lot of unused gift cards.

And with that, I think I will end this.

Robert_J said:

Sam means connect a new amp. Like this 230 watt amp - http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa230-230w-subwoofer-amplifier--300-813 up to this 6,000 watt amp - http://www.guitarcenter.com/Behringer-iNUKE-NU6000-Power-Amp-107611147-i2271630.gc

Click to expand...

Don't even have to spend that much.HTD has one for $150. The Sony TA N110 pops up on Ebay once in a while. Those can be had for $75.

I'd get the Dayton 1200.$150 is tough. If you stretch to $200...Lava LSP12(was $170 a while back, may still be?) Or the F12.Wattage, by itself, is meaningless. What is the efficiency of the driver?What is the box tuned for(If ported)?But if you are staunchly at $150...sub1200.

Where would I look up the answer to those questions?

Adam Sanchez said:

Where would I look up the answer to those questions?

Click to expand...

With some manufacturers?

Nowhere.

Some will provide the information to you with a graph. HSU provides a graph showing the extension(at maximum output).

In subs, the F3 is the number you care about. F3 is the lowest real attained frequency. 20hz is the Holy Grail(some want down to 15). In "mass produced" subs...anything 25-28 is "superb".

Dayton doesn't provide this information on the 1000/1200. Why?
At the price. No one cares.

But the 1000(as far as realistic reviews) get to 30-ish. The 1200 gets to 25-ish. Which is where they "should be".