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Subwoofer not woofing! Help


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#41 of 52 schan1269

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Posted February 24 2014 - 05:00 AM

Even easier...

 

http://www.amazon.co...h square woofer

 

You'd have to make sure it fit. Might even have a chance to fit without having to alter the box.



#42 of 52 cbrown3301

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Posted February 24 2014 - 07:06 AM

Edwin when you say old power cable, do you mean the cord that plugs into the wall outlet that supplies power to the powered sub? I would think all I should have to do is take the rca cable from the reciever that plugs into my sub box and splice the end of that and attach it to the sub terminals. Just not sure if it is pos or neg.....shouldnt that work? Obviously the sub wont hit very hard since it doesnt have an amp to power it but I can always add one later correct? Sorry I am such a novice about this stuff, Im sure you are tired of explaining things. 



#43 of 52 cbrown3301

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Posted February 24 2014 - 07:15 AM

Schan that six prong plug in my second picture is the other end of the speaker wire that goes from the driver terminals to what I believe is the amp portion of the motherboard. There are two orange wires that run to the pos terminal and a single grey to the neg terminal of the driver. Those three wires then go into one side of the six prong plug and the other side plugs into what I think is the amp motherboard.



#44 of 52 schan1269

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Posted February 24 2014 - 07:41 AM

Your subwoofer pre-out is not power. Ergo, you need an amp. I would not buy another amp for that sub...unless you configure it for a larger driver. I assumed it was at least a 10". Being an 8", it is not worth saving whole. The box is worth repurposing, the driver in it, is not.

#45 of 52 cbrown3301

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Posted February 24 2014 - 10:21 AM

I need to try and save this unit because I want to put it in the garage and buy a new package for the home theater. I dont want to put a lot of cash into the unit that is going to be in the garage, so it sounds like the best option is just to make the sub passive and move on. Anyone want to give a novice who wants to learn a step by step and kindergarten version of how to do that.....



#46 of 52 Tom Vodhanel

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Posted February 24 2014 - 11:13 AM

A kenwood vr-407. the sub is a powered sub and plugs into the reciever

 

 When you tested the sub amp did the power LED illuminate? If not, have you tried changing the fuse?

 

 if the LED did illuminate how did you ensure the subwoofer amp was receiving a signal to amplify?

 

 Be sure you have all speakers set to small in the receiver's speaker setup menu. Subwoofer set to ON/YES. Subwoofer level control set appropriately.

Tom V.



#47 of 52 cbrown3301

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Posted February 24 2014 - 01:18 PM

Yes power led comes on, all fuses checked none were blown, receiver speakers are set to normal, no small setting. Sub is yes on receiver, volume is set fine as is crossover level. The sub would put out a very weak sound, so I opened up the box and removed the sub. I then took my left front speaker wire and attached those speaker wires to my sub terminals and the sub worked fine just didn't hit hard due to no powered amp juicing the signal to it. I figure my powered sub amp is fried since sub worked on another speaker setup.



#48 of 52 schan1269

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Posted February 24 2014 - 04:08 PM

Yes power led comes on, all fuses checked none were blown, receiver speakers are set to normal, no small setting. Sub is yes on receiver, volume is set fine as is crossover level. The sub would put out a very weak sound, so I opened up the box and removed the sub. I then took my left front speaker wire and attached those speaker wires to my sub terminals and the sub worked fine just didn't hit hard due to no powered amp juicing the signal to it. I figure my powered sub amp is fried since sub worked on another speaker setup.


You still don't get it.

Running the driver from from the AVR is not even close to what I said to do.

Your AVR is 5 amp channels. So you tested 1/2 what there was to test. And not even the correct half.

What I said to do...

Remove the leads to the driver. That would be the 8" black round thing.

Take one of your other 5 speakers. The SPEAKER, not the wire. Again...The SPEAKER.

Take that SPEAKER and wire it to the leads you took off that 8" black round thing(You know...the driver).

We were trying to figure out if the amp was truly dead.

#49 of 52 Edwin-S

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Posted February 24 2014 - 06:00 PM

Sorry, I took so long to respond. I just want to say that I think I misunderstood Schan1269s earlier instructions regarding the power cord and gave you a bum steer. Too many cooks spoil the broth and create confusion. I would just follow what Schan1269 is telling you to do. He sounds like he has built a few of these things. I haven't. Personally, given your level of familiarity with the innards of subwoofers, I would probably just recommend replacing your sub or like, Schan1269 was saying, tear everything out and use the box to build a DIY sub as a learning process. Good luck.


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#50 of 52 cbrown3301

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Posted February 25 2014 - 05:18 AM

Schan completed task. No reaction from other speaker either. Next?



#51 of 52 schan1269

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Posted February 25 2014 - 05:43 AM

Def a dead amp. Since that is an 8" sub... To me, there is no point in fixing it as it sits. Buy another sub(Dayton sub 1000/1200, BIC V1020/1220/F12). Or...repurpose this box. That would take very little effort. The side the amp is in looks big enough for a 10" driver(If you choose this route...all we need is a box measurement of the cavity left once the plate amp is removed) You also need an inner measurement of w/l/h to come up with volume. I would leave the original 8" driver in it as a bass radiator(You can Google the reason they are beneficiary). You "could" even leave it active. But that gets into matching the 10" more specifically. So, you could buy another sub for $120-$250. Or, spend $250-$400 on this box...and end up with a sub that would embarrass a sub that sells for 3-4 times the money you put in this box.

#52 of 52 cbrown3301

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Posted February 25 2014 - 08:53 AM

Thanks for your help






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