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Ceiling insulation


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#1 of 12 OFFLINE   AlphaCentaurus

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Posted January 29 2014 - 08:50 AM

Hi,

 

I'm planning my theater and I would like some advices on insulation.

I have read a lot on the subject but there are so many options.

 

My main concern is sound and vibrations transmited to the ceiling since the theater will be in the basement I don't really care about sound in the basement.

 

At this moment I'm going with:

 

For the ceiling:

Fiberglass insulation

Drywall Furring Channel + Resilient Sound Isolation Clips

Plywood 5/8

Drywall 5/8

 

Walls:

Drywall 5/8

Plywood 5/8

fiberglass insulation

Rubber Stud Isolators

 

What do you think ?

I would appreciate your feedback


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#2 of 12 OFFLINE   vidiot33

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Posted January 29 2014 - 08:55 AM

Hi: I'm also constructing a home theater and I'm using a product called SafeNSound to insulate my basement theater from the upper level. I'm going to be using a triple layer of it and it was easy to find at Lowe's. The only real disadvantage is the price : it's quite a bit more expensive than the pink stuff, but the research I've done on it convinced me that it's the best stuff to use. Best of Iuck with your project!

#3 of 12 OFFLINE   AlphaCentaurus

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Posted January 29 2014 - 08:58 AM

Thanks a lot for the info.

I'm on a budget so I would like a simple solution with a low cost.

I know I can't reach a STC-80 solution with no budget but I look for the best cost/result ratio


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#4 of 12 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted January 29 2014 - 09:15 AM

Fiberglass doesn't tell us anything.

There is SilentFiber, there is Owens-Corning with mineral wool.

#5 of 12 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted January 29 2014 - 09:20 AM

By the way...

QuietRock...or similar.

#6 of 12 OFFLINE   Bobofbone

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Posted January 29 2014 - 07:40 PM

You might think about adding a second layer of drywall to your ceiling, with a layer of green glue between. If you are using sound isolation clips and hat channel on the first layer, adding another layer would improve the sound insolation by adding more mass,with an additional effect by the green glue. You should also make sure any duct work in the ceiling is dampened to reduce secondary sound transmission to where ever the duct work is going. You can use flex duct, and if you put some curves in it, it will be more effective.

 

You mentioned not being concerned about noise transmission into the basement. You should stilll consider that noise into the basement can still be transmitted directly, up staircases, and indirectly by transmitted structural vibration. Consider using a solid core door on the room, and weather stripping the edges.



#7 of 12 OFFLINE   AlphaCentaurus

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Posted January 31 2014 - 05:42 AM

Thanks a lot for the info Bobofbone. Can I use green glue to fix the drywall to the plywood on the walls and ceiling?


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#8 of 12 OFFLINE   Bobofbone

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Posted January 31 2014 - 02:26 PM

Regarding attaching the second layer of drywall with green glue-sort of. The glue, by itself won't provide enough intial attachment for an initial bond. The manufacture advised placing geen glue on the second layer of drywall, and using screws to attach it to the first layer, preferably utilizing the underlying hat channel. the screws can be placed, if memory serves me correctly, every 24 inches along the underlying hat channel. At this distance, it still allows the double layers to act as a constrained layer dampener, absorbing low frequency sound and attenuating higher frequency sound.  Some of the stuff I read said you could take the screws out after the green glue set in a couple days, but it also said it didn't make much difference if you didn't space screws too close to negate the dampening effect. Also, consider the drywall on the ceiling is over your head. it seemed a better idea to leave the screws in the ceiling in place.

 

On my room, I left the screws in.

 

There is some good information about the subject and on sound proofing at these two sites: http://isostore.com/...CFY9W7AodGHFM6g and http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/



#9 of 12 OFFLINE   Bobofbone

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Posted January 31 2014 - 02:38 PM

One other point. You mentioned using sond isolation clips on the ceilting. The construct of double drywall with green glue will do more for sound proofing and sound attenuation if it isn't fixed directly to the underlying studs. The wall vibrates when hit by a sound wave, and the function of sound isolation clips is to reduce the transmission of the vibration from the wall to the underlying stud, thereby decreasing the transmission of vibration (sound) to the underlying structure that's connected to the next room (and indirectly, to the rest of the house). The whole construct of isolation clips and hat channel suspends the wall, allowing it to vibrate on its own, absorbing and dissapating the energy of the sound wave as heat, instead of passing it on.



#10 of 12 OFFLINE   Brian Dobbs

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Posted February 05 2014 - 08:17 AM

Blown-in cellulose.



#11 of 12 OFFLINE   AlphaCentaurus

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Posted March 03 2014 - 03:00 PM

thank a lot for the info i'll go check these web sites


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#12 of 12 OFFLINE   AlphaCentaurus

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Posted March 04 2014 - 06:04 AM

Blown-in cellulose.

 

It's a good option but too messy and fiberglass insulation is easyer to install.


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