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Velodyne Vrp 12


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39 replies to this topic

#21 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 18 2013 - 08:02 AM

That all depends on your situation. Do you really "need" the wifi, or could you just run a ethernet to it? 

 

By the way, hard-wired is always preferred. How often does my wifi go crazy? At least once a day.

 

I even use the Netgear WNCE3001 connected to a FS605 to run my devices in each room. Why?

 

 

I can place the WNCE where it receives signal the best(hint, not stuffed in the "rack") then run the ethernet to the FS605(you can pick them up on Ebay under $10, just make sure the listing includes the power brick) and then to the devices.



#22 of 40 OFFLINE   nyg052003

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Posted October 18 2013 - 02:08 PM

That all depends on your situation. Do you really "need" the wifi, or could you just run a ethernet to it? 

 

By the way, hard-wired is always preferred. How often does my wifi go crazy? At least once a day.

 

I even use the Netgear WNCE3001 connected to a FS605 to run my devices in each room. Why?

 

 

I can place the WNCE where it receives signal the best(hint, not stuffed in the "rack") then run the ethernet to the FS605(you can pick them up on Ebay under $10, just make sure the listing includes the power brick) and then to the devices.

well my wireless router is in the house in the bedroom and is about 80-90 feet from the mancave where the devices will be. It gets decent signal, better signal with the garage door to the cave up. Its a netgear usb adapter, either netgear or belkin and is suppose to be good up to 150 ft, if not the 300 ft one so no can't use an Ethernet cable. I might just see about getting the phone company to put me a jack out in the cave and might see about getting another router or see how I could go about possibly doing something along those lines cause I could use another gps cell phone extender to help my cell signal in the yard and cave also.

 

I really doubt I will go through all of that trouble though. I will more than likely just leave everything as is. I will probably just go ahead and get the Onkyo tx nr 626 with built in wireless and  bt. I might though get the phone company to come out and put another phone jack in my kitchen area so I can move the router and gps extender so it will be more in open. And even that depends on how much they will charge to come and do that



#23 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 18 2013 - 02:18 PM

What house/apt is this that doesn't already have a phone jack in the kitchen?



#24 of 40 OFFLINE   nyg052003

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Posted October 18 2013 - 02:26 PM

it did but doesn't now. Mobile home. Actually the jack is there I think , they might just have to hook it back up, or whatever they need to do

What house/apt is this that doesn't already have a phone jack in the kitchen?



#25 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 18 2013 - 02:35 PM

Oh, ok. Reconnecting phone jacks isn't rocket science. If there is a jack there, take a screwdriver and pull it out. The wiring is multi-color and so are most jacks that you can pick up at a hardware store.

 

Also, not uncommon for the jacks themselves to fall apart.



#26 of 40 OFFLINE   nyg052003

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Posted October 18 2013 - 03:53 PM

Oh, ok. Reconnecting phone jacks isn't rocket science. If there is a jack there, take a screwdriver and pull it out. The wiring is multi-color and so are most jacks that you can pick up at a hardware store.

 

Also, not uncommon for the jacks themselves to fall apart.

im not sure tho it was ever hooked up as we have had 2 different phone lines in the house . I had the one in the room now where the stuff is in put in  so not sure this current safety line just for the  internet is even hooked up to the other jacks, or if they are ran together or what



#27 of 40 OFFLINE   Tom Vodhanel

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Posted October 19 2013 - 07:25 PM

sounds like they are lying then lol. I wonder why ? I always heard that cheap, sorry companies back in the day like Jensen, pyramid, majestic overrate their products while companies like Orion underrate theirs. So why would Onkyo say 130 W when in fact it's 45-55?

 

 

 In this case (big name AVRs) it is more a case of measuring the amplification capabilities in different ways.  I wouldn't say they are lying, as the "rated" output is likely very possible when dealing with the transient nature of music/film source material. There is really no need for any type of "continuous" power output in a home audio setting.  

 

 I just checked the first Onkyo receiver that popped up in google...the 828.  It is "rated" at 130 watts into 2 channels/ 8ohm. 

 

 It measured 145 watts or so in the test.

 

 http://www.soundandv...iver-test-bench

 

 80 watts cleanly into 7 channels / 8ohm. 

 

 Usually the capabilities will increase into 6ohm or 4ohm loads. 

 

 I do agree that the power ratings shouldn't be a primary determiner when deciding on a AVR upgrade. Reliability, inputs/outputs, feature set (Audyssey?), even the ease of use for the remote if you don't have a universal would all rank a bit higher for me.

 

 Also, here is a link that shows a lot of AVR reviews. Many include power measurements.

 

 http://www.soundandv...eceiver-reviews

 

 Tom V. 


Edited by Tom Vodhanel, October 19 2013 - 07:29 PM.


#28 of 40 OFFLINE   nyg052003

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Posted October 23 2013 - 03:50 PM

Oh, ok. Reconnecting phone jacks isn't rocket science. If there is a jack there, take a screwdriver and pull it out. The wiring is multi-color and so are most jacks that you can pick up at a hardware store.

 

Also, not uncommon for the jacks themselves to fall apart.

hey I wanted to know rather there would be any difference hooking my ps3 up straight to my Samsung hd tv via hdmi then running a toslink from the ps3 to the receiver for audio vs running the hdmi from the ps3 to the receiver I currently have ( with just hdmi pass thrus) then still having the toslink ran to the receiver?



#29 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 23 2013 - 03:58 PM

Incoming HDMI signals to a TV get sent back out PCM 2.0. We have a few dozen threads mentioning this.



#30 of 40 OFFLINE   nyg052003

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Posted October 23 2013 - 04:55 PM

Incoming HDMI signals to a TV get sent back out PCM 2.0. We have a few dozen threads mentioning this.

ok well what would be the difference in had I had one of the recievers that does have audio off the hdmi and the ps3 going hdmi to the receiver, then an hdmi from the receiver to the tv which will still be incoming hdmi. So what would be the difference in regards to that as far as it not sending out pcm 2.0 even in this scenario



#31 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 23 2013 - 05:09 PM

Having an AVR that takes audio off the HDMI renders the entire discussion of "incoming HDMI to the TV" pointless.



#32 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 23 2013 - 05:17 PM

In a nutshell(and still can't believe you haven't replaced your AVR yet)

 

Audio off your TV is(that didn't originate from its own tuner)

2.0 PCM

 

Audio off your PS3 straight into an AVR that takes audio off the HDMI(and I hope this ends this thread, finally) gets you...

 

DD

DTS

DTS HD

Dolby True HD

5.1 audio from streaming and PC based audio

SACD

BD Pure Audio

 

So, do you only want 2.0PCM or do you want DTS/DD/DolbyTrueHD/DTS HD/SACD/BD Pure Audio/5.1 from streaming/PC?



#33 of 40 OFFLINE   nyg052003

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Posted October 23 2013 - 05:35 PM

In a nutshell(and still can't believe you haven't replaced your AVR yet)

 

Audio off your TV is(that didn't originate from its own tuner)

2.0 PCM

 

Audio off your PS3 straight into an AVR that takes audio off the HDMI(and I hope this ends this thread, finally) gets you...

 

DD

DTS

DTS HD

Dolby True HD

5.1 audio from streaming and PC based audio

SACD

BD Pure Audio

 

So, do you only want 2.0PCM or do you want DTS/DD/DolbyTrueHD/DTS HD/SACD/BD Pure Audio/5.1 from streaming/PC?

I just thought that audio straight from the ps3 to the receiver's optical out would in essence be the same thing or get all of those that you just mentioned.

 

what I am going to do Friday is hook up the ps3 Friday using the avr that I have  and also hook up the dish box. I am going to put in a blue ray movie and watch it and see how I like it. I actually enjoy movies on my old  sony 2001 system with just 2 spkrs and a sub, might be a center hooked up also not sure as it's in my son's room. I will more than likely go ahead and get the onkyo 626 though, trading mine in and paying 300 bucks.

 

my question though was with my current setup, would going to the avr with hdmi then to the receiver with a toslink be any different than going from the ps3 to the tv, and a toslink from ps3 to avr for audio. THIS IS WITH MY CURRENT AVR as I want to know if either way it will still be 2.0 or is there any advantages or disadvantages in hooking it up either way?



#34 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 23 2013 - 05:41 PM

Toslink PS3 to AVR will give you DD and DTS.



#35 of 40 OFFLINE   nyg052003

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Posted October 23 2013 - 05:59 PM

Toslink PS3 to AVR will give you DD and DTS.

ok I will go ahead and hook it up like that and see how I like it. Im certain I will go ahead and get the 626 though because it has all of the other stuff I want as in Bluetooth and wi fi, usb, ect.

 

I'm assuming you are saying just go ahead and run the ps3 to the tv via hdmi for video vs going to the avr then still needing another hdmi to go from avr to tv?



#36 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 23 2013 - 06:07 PM

No, not at all.

 

Your current AVR does not take audio off the HDMI, which is the problem here. That is the ENTIRE REASON TO REPLACE IT. 

 

Once you finally do replace your current AVR with an AVR capable of taking the audio off the HDMI(how many times before this sinks in?) you need two connections from your sources(HDMI for the video and toslink for the audio)

 

Once you finally do buy an AVR capable of taking the audio off the HDMI(cause again, it is the ENTIRE PROBLEM HERE) you will run HDMI from your sources to the AVR(cause again, it takes the audio off the HDMI) and the AVR will hand off the video to your TV, cause it has already taken the audio off the HDMI.



#37 of 40 OFFLINE   nyg052003

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Posted October 23 2013 - 06:14 PM

No, not at all.

 

Your current AVR does not take audio off the HDMI, which is the problem here. That is the ENTIRE REASON TO REPLACE IT. 

 

Once you finally do replace your current AVR with an AVR capable of taking the audio off the HDMI(how many times before this sinks in?) you need two connections from your sources(HDMI for the video and toslink for the audio)

 

Once you finally do buy an AVR capable of taking the audio off the HDMI(cause again, it is the ENTIRE PROBLEM HERE) you will run HDMI from your sources to the AVR(cause again, it takes the audio off the HDMI) and the AVR will hand off the video to your TV, cause it has already taken the audio off the HDMI.

I get all of what you said earlier but I was asking about you saying I will get dd and dts using toslink from the ps3 to the avr. Now I am asking what about the video portion? Shall I run the hdmi for video straight from the ps3 to the tv?

 

That's how I have always had my 2001 sony setup since I got my ps3 in 2008. And yes this is for right now until I trade in the reciever



#38 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 23 2013 - 08:05 PM

Yes, run the HDMI to the TV directly as there is no reason to use the HDMI on that AVR for 1 source.



#39 of 40 OFFLINE   nyg052003

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Posted October 24 2013 - 03:34 AM

Yes, run the HDMI to the TV directly as there is no reason to use the HDMI on that AVR for 1 source.

Gotcha and thanks for the education lol. Yeah i guess i was just wondering why the toslink straight to the reciever wouldnt give me all of the

DTS HD

Dolby True HD

5.1 audio from streaming and PC based audio

SACD

BD Pure Audio

as you mentioned but I guess it's because the component has to feed through to a source that can produce all of those things?

 

Oh yeah and also i guess i also was wondering or what else confused me was that if my current reciever can produce true 7.1 then it running straight to the reciever via toslink would allow any component ran toslink to the reciever to be able to recieve it? I was thinking along those lines. Must have something to do with the video and audio having to have to be tied in all together which the other reciever would allow with just one cable needed for both audio and video



#40 of 40 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted October 24 2013 - 07:32 AM

No, as I've said more than once, your current AVR does not, can't, never has, never will do "true" 7.1.

 

It used DPL IIx and DTS Neo to create 7.1 from 5.1, period, end of story.

 

And again, repeating...

 

HDMI is required for Dolby TrueHD, DTS HD/HR-MA, BD Pure Audio and SACD(except for 6/8channel analog, which DOES NOT APPLY TO YOU, AT ALL.).

 

And those three(not SACD) are the only formats, at all, anywhere, period...end of discussion, that even have 7.1.






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