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what makes a speaker..a good speaker?


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#21 of 22 gene c

gene c

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Posted September 28 2013 - 02:43 PM

My satellite box, dvd and BR players are all hooked up with HDMI and analog connections. Pure Analog (or Pure Direct) does bypass all processing including bass/treble controls and YPAO For 2 channel music, including XM radio off Dish Network, I just prefer analog over hdmi. Give it a try.

 

Towers might be a bit better in the 80hz - 150hz range, who knows for sure, but you might get better drivers/tweeters in a comparably priced bookshelf. It's a tough call. When using a subwoofer I never felt I was missing anything with a good pair of bookshelves. I wouldn't buy a bookshelf that doesn't go to at least 55hz which would allow an 80hz crossover setting with a little breathing room. But any decent subwoofer wouldn't have any problems with a 120 or even a 150 hz crossover. They're designed to take the strain off the amplifier and the speakers, not the other way around.

 

Buying speakers on the net without hearing them first is a little un-nerving. But the best place to audition speakers is your own livingroom. I used to rent  cars for a few days each before buying the one that I wound up liking the best. Consider the return shipping a rental fee.

 

Come to grips with the fact that you will never buy the best speakers out there for you. There's just too many different brands and models. Look for an acceptable compromise.


"Everyday room": Panasonic 58" Plasma, Dish HD DVR, Pioneer Elite vsx-23, BDP-23 BR, dv58avi universal dvd player, Paradigm Studio 20 V1, CC-450, Dayton HSU-10 subwoofer.

"Movie/Music room": Toshiba 65" DLP, Dish HD receiver, Marantz 7005, CC-4003, BD-7006, Polk LSI25's-LSi7's-LSiC, 2 original Dayton 10" "Mighty-Mites" subwoofers. (subject to change without notice).
 
Also have  MB Quart Vera VS05 +.....too much to list. Help me.
 
 

 


#22 of 22 Type A

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Posted September 28 2013 - 03:01 PM

i just wonder about the fullness of sound.  being that most books use a single driver and tweeter, and most towers use 2-3+ drivers, that the fullness and quality would be reduced.


Again, only at higher SPL and with the right material. At moderate listening levels in a home theater application youll be hard-pressed to tell the difference between a tower and bookshelf.
 

also, by using books with single drivers, this means that the sub ends up having to work harder, correct?


No, your subs work load is determined by your crossover.  
 

don't most bookshelves have a higher low frequency response?  meaning the sub will have to fill in?  in a previous topic, i asked about the mid bass and what it was for and the impression i got is that, by passing the mid bass frequencies off to another sub, it allowed both the mid bass and low bass sub to sound better because neither was having to deal with all of those frequencies.  If you opt for books over towers, do you not run into this issue?


Just because a sub can produce 80 Hz to 20 Hz does not mean its good at it. Matter of fact, few subs can commit much beyond a linear response, over that entire broad range,  and most only do really well when youre more conservative in what you ask of them. For good bass, over that entire bass spectrum, ask your sub for only 50 Hz to 20 Hz and leave the 80 Hz to 50 Hz for towers or something like a mid bass module.   Just keep in mind that towers must be turned up to show this strength.

 

Also keep in mind this is all from a perfectionists standpoint and a  'Just say no to mud' philosophy.  In a budget system, built primarily with home theater in mind, asking your sub for 80 Hz is just fine.  However music applications and high continuous SPL demands more.  


JVC DLA-RS60U3D & DaLite High Power 106"
Paradigm Studio V.5 20 (5) & ADP590 (2)  
Hsu VTF-2 MK3 (2) & MBM-12 MK2 (2)

Yamaha RX-A3010 & Emotiva XPA5
Oppo BDP93 & Darbee DVP 5000

*My Home Theater Photo Journal*




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