Cable routing to Projector (1 Viewer)

View attachment IMG_20130909_091118.jpg
A couple weeks ago I posted (link below) my first home theater setup, I now have all the components and I am starting to set it up.

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/topic/326083-what-do-you-think-of-my-budget-home-theatre/

I have a drop ceiling and plan on just running my in-wall speaker wire and in-wall hdmi through the ceiling, but I know I can't do that with power. I know the right way to get power is by installing a permanent outlet near the projector, but I would like to avoid that . I have an outlet right below the projector about 10 feet away and I was wondering if it is considered okay to just run an extension cord inside a raceway attached to the wall. I don' t see how an extension cord would be any less safe then running the normal power cord inside a raceway but it won't entirely reach. If i wrapped the power cord around the mount and brought the extension cord all the way to the projector would that be up to code as long as I actually do run behind the wall ever and its inside of a raceway? If not do you have any other suggestions. I thought about this, (see link below) but its only 54 inches and won't be long enough.



http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Flat-Panel+TV+Cord+and+Cable+Power+Kit/3600475.p?id=1218417733690&skuId=3600475&st=Wiremold%20-%20Flat-Panel%20TV%20Cord%20and%20Cable%20Power%20Ki&cp=1&lp=1

I attached a picture, the red line is the hdmi cord not power, The blackbox will be cut out and the projector will be set back into that dropped down area of the ceiling

http://www.amazon.com/Vanco-RL125024-WH-Rapid-Power-White/dp/B0020LOJNQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1378755241&sr=1-2&keywords=romex+wall+outlet

You can probably find a hardware store that will sell you exact length of Romex you'd need. Otherwise 50' of it is $60-$100.

Technically you don't even need the thing you linked from Best Buy, or that Vanco I linked.

Find a real electrical supply store ( one of many https://www.platt.com/ ) and not your local hardware store...

All you need is romex and a 3-prong outlet. Tap in the backside of the present outlet at the floor.

And those outlets in the wall. Is all this wired "up" from the floor, or wired "down" from the ceiling?

schan1269 said:

http://www.amazon.com/Vanco-RL125024-WH-Rapid-Power-White/dp/B0020LOJNQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1378755241&sr=1-2&keywords=romex+wall+outlet

You can probably find a hardware store that will sell you exact length of Romex you'd need. Otherwise 50' of it is $60-$100.

Click to expand...

That may be something I look into, however would running extension cord through a raceway be against code? NEC?

Extension cord is a no-no.

You have to run CL rated wire...which Romex is.

schan1269 said:

Technically you don't even need the thing you linked from Best Buy, or that Vanco I linked.

Find a real electrical supply store ( one of many https://www.platt.com/ ) and not your local hardware store...

All you need is romex and a 3-prong outlet. Tap in the backside of the present outlet at the floor.

And those outlets in the wall. Is all this wired "up" from the floor, or wired "down" from the ceiling?

Click to expand...

Okay that sounds like a better idea, probably cheaper too. I will have to look into the outlet and see how its wired. The wall backs up to a staircase which should give me access at least half way up the wall

Also I don't know much about electrical stuff, My dad is gonna give me a hand this week with it. Does this romex require conduit or can it just be run freely in between the joist/studs?

Help you out...

https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/NM-B-Type-12-AWG/Multiple/122NMBGX250C/product.aspx?zpid=62408 (has a great price)
https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Switch-Outlet-Boxes-Old-Work/Allied-Moulded/P-122OW/product.aspx?zpid=682667
https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Receptacles-Tamper-Resistant-Residential-Resistant/Leviton/T5320E/product.aspx?zpid=738772

And, if run from the ceiling...a "tap in"..(if ran in the ceiling, you might have one up there with an extra spot, otherwise, put another one in...in case you ever want anything else powered by the projector....fans, etc)
https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Octagon-Boxes-Accessories-Boxes/EGS/40-1-2/product.aspx?zpid=231345

schan1269 said:

Help you out...

https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/NM-B-Type-12-AWG/Multiple/122NMBGX250C/product.aspx?zpid=62408 (has a great price)
https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Switch-Outlet-Boxes-Old-Work/Allied-Moulded/P-122OW/product.aspx?zpid=682667
https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Receptacles-Tamper-Resistant-Residential-Resistant/Leviton/T5320E/product.aspx?zpid=738772

And, if run from the ceiling...a "tap in"..(if ran in the ceiling, you might have one up there with an extra spot, otherwise, put another one in...in case you ever want anything else powered by the projector....fans, etc)
https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Octagon-Boxes-Accessories-Boxes/EGS/40-1-2/product.aspx?zpid=231345

Click to expand...

Very cool, thanks lot this should help, won't be as bad as I thought.

First rule of thumb with electrical. Make sure it is OFF.

I ran new lighting in a bedroom once. Went to put in the light bulbs...and they turned on. Turns out the bedroom "wall" and the bedroom ceiling were not on the same breaker. I was not happy. Now whenever I work on the house...I kill the entire house...cause all the "improvements" were done by the prior owner. And hardly any "followed code" nor "make sense".

I just checked that wire...there is a reason it was that "cheap". Have to order it in multiples of 250'...

Same wire in a 25' cut...

https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/NM-B-Type-12-AWG/Multiple/122NMBGX25PAK/product.aspx?zpid=69688 (not sure what to think of Platt on this one, the 12/2 and 12/3 are using the same picture)

schan1269 said:

First rule of thumb with electrical. Make sure it is OFF.

I ran new lighting in a bedroom once. Went to put in the light bulbs...and they turned on. Turns out the bedroom "wall" and the bedroom ceiling were not on the same breaker. I was not happy. Now whenever I work on the house...I kill the entire house...cause all the "improvements" were done by the prior owner. And hardly any "followed code" nor "make sense".

Click to expand...

Years ago, I was working on an outlet/switch combo and I only checked to make sure the light switch breaker was off (I assumed that both were on the same breaker). I touched one of the outlet wires and let out a stream of words like I have never done before. My wife still talks about it almost 20 years later.