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troubleshooting Pioneer sw-1000 subwoofer


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#1 of 12 OFFLINE   splake

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Posted January 06 2013 - 04:54 AM

Hello everyone! I am troubleshooting an older Pioneer powered subwoofer I recently acquired. When connected to the "A" speaker output on my reciever the level is minimal with repeated clicking from inside the cabinet, something switching. I removed the 12" speaker from the Pioneer and checked resistance on 200 Ohm setting the reading is 1.3. If I push in on the cone the reading fluctuates wildly from -18 to 43. To test the Pioneer subwoofer amp I attached a passive 4ohm Sony 10" sub to it. It sounds great, but there is a clicking and popping noise coming from somewhere in the circuit board on the Pioneer, like something is tripping, but the fuse is fine. I'm apprehensive of what prolonged use might do to the circuit board. Is something overheating in the subwoofer's amp because I'm using the 4ohm Sony sub? Is the 12" speaker blown and shorting the amp? Any pointers, tips or info greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time. I have researched this particular subwoofer for a long time and can find little info on it.

#2 of 12 OFFLINE   splake

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Posted January 27 2013 - 09:01 AM

anyone out there?

#3 of 12 OFFLINE   Steve Tannehill

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Posted January 27 2013 - 09:08 AM

Nothing I can tell you except that this was my first subwoofer, and a strange one at that because it powered a center channel that you could plug into it.

#4 of 12 OFFLINE   Brainwasher

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Posted January 27 2013 - 10:14 AM

Yeah, sounds like something is shorting in the amp output circuit to the sub. http://www.amazon.co...c f12 subwoofer

#5 of 12 OFFLINE   splake

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Posted January 27 2013 - 10:22 PM

Well, I was hoping I could fix it with a new speaker to put into the Pioneer cabinet, like this Dayton: http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=295-185 But if the circuit board is shorting... it is beyond my expertise. Thanks for the help.

#6 of 12 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted January 28 2013 - 02:57 AM

IF the circuit board died...bypass the built in amp. Buy one of these to run it... http://www.amazon.co...rds=dayton mono And when the day comes the Pioneer coughs up a lung from having the deal with real power...you can create a DIY that will put this one to shame.

#7 of 12 OFFLINE   splake

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Posted January 29 2013 - 05:13 AM

Good idea, I really like the Pioneer cabinet. I'm sure this is the place to find DIY instructions for building my own sub. It never occurred to me to just gut the cabinet and replace the amp and speaker... seems too easy to be true.

#8 of 12 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted January 29 2013 - 05:42 AM

Short story(I've told it elsewhere here)... I bought a JBL DPS12 "dead" at a garage sale for $1. Took it home and spent 30 minutes(I have mad woodworking skills) creating a wood panel to replace the plate amp(from scrap wood I had laying around). At first I simply drilled a small hole for speaker wire to shoot through with a rubber grommet. The speaker wire I used was the DPS' own power cord. I terminated the internal wires to the power cord. Snipped off the "plug" stripped it and connected it to an amp. The whole process was 24hrs...basically waiting for the glue and paint to dry. Maybe 45 minutes in total labor. When the driver died for being subjected to real power...and not the "piece of crap" JBL threw in the DPS series... I replaced it with an infinity kappa. Now "the mutt" (as I refer to it) is ran with a Krell. $1 for a "box" $3 for a binding post(did that when I got tired of it "looking ghetto") $60 for the Infinity Kappa $400 for the Krell(which it itself had been dropped, one of the binding posts sheared off...I simply soldered speaker wire right on the nub)

#9 of 12 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted January 29 2013 - 05:54 AM

Oh yeah,,,the original DPS driver survived 5-6 years of abuse. What "finally" killed it? Trying to play a 14hz wave at 105db. That was after I had already bought the infinity and I was just tired of the original driver still being in there. And yes. The Infinity is an enormous improvement.

#10 of 12 OFFLINE   splake

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Posted February 01 2013 - 02:54 AM

Cool. I'm thinking I'll buy a new driver first. If I were to hook-up the new driver with what I suspect is the corrupted circuit board is there much chance of damaging the new driver? That is to say, can a faulty circuit board destroy a driver?

#11 of 12 OFFLINE   schan1269

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Posted February 01 2013 - 02:59 AM

If the circuit board is introducing distortion.

#12 of 12 OFFLINE   DisneySpirit

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Posted September 18 2013 - 01:29 PM

Hello everyone! I am troubleshooting an older Pioneer powered subwoofer I recently acquired. When connected to the "A" speaker output on my reciever the level is minimal with repeated clicking from inside the cabinet, something switching. I removed the 12" speaker from the Pioneer and checked resistance on 200 Ohm setting the reading is 1.3. If I push in on the cone the reading fluctuates wildly from -18 to 43. To test the Pioneer subwoofer amp I attached a passive 4ohm Sony 10" sub to it. It sounds great, but there is a clicking and popping noise coming from somewhere in the circuit board on the Pioneer, like something is tripping, but the fuse is fine. I'm apprehensive of what prolonged use might do to the circuit board. Is something overheating in the subwoofer's amp because I'm using the 4ohm Sony sub? Is the 12" speaker blown and shorting the amp? Any pointers, tips or info greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time. I have researched this particular subwoofer for a long time and can find little info on it.

I have this sub-woofer too. It would ocassional make a loud pop noise or crackle when adjusting the volume control. I bought a can of TV tuner cleaner from Fry's Electronics and sprayed it into the backs and shafts of all the rheostats and switches while turning them  or switching them. Problem was solved!

The problem reocurred about a year later and I repeated the process with same success. It hasn't happened since.






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