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HTIB speaker upgrade... and a few newb questions..
8 replies to this topic
Posted October 16 2012 - 07:19 AM
Heya i have an Insignia labeled HTIB i got from best buy about 6 months ago. For me its been a nice system, sounds really good to me as i have never really been into home theater until just recently. Anyways, the sytsem has an actual receiver ( not a proprietary wire connection deal) I can actually upgrade the speakers. the speakers it has are... fronts are 2-ways (4"/1") satellites, the center has 2x 3.25"/1" and the surrounds are full range with 3.25"drivers. and the sub is a powered 120w (10" driver) I like the system alot but am considering upgrading. I was looking at the fluance 5 speaker kits. the AVHTB or the SXHTB(has better specs apparently) Ive done a little searching and the opinions are that these are a budget speaker and alot of people like them. i am wondering if either of these kits would be worth the cost of upgrading from the satellites i listed above?? if the cheaper AVHTB is a better choice or a little more money for the SXHTB? Im not really too anal about getting the best as i dont have the tons of money to get a top tier setup. I just want a good sound for the money. The sub i have works pretty good so i will just continue to use that. a few more questions.. my receiver puts out 90watts/ch and m current speakers are rated to 120w. my questions is when you shop for speakers, as far as wattage, do you just need to make sure your receiver doesnt put out too much wattage for the speakers??? ive read that you need to "match" wattage of the receiver and speakers but also read that isnt necessary... i know this is a newb question but i needed to ask lol. Also my receiver specs list speaker impedance of 6-16 ohms, so as long as the speakers are within this range i am good to go right?? If the fluances arent the best buy, are there any other recommendations?? Thanks for any input...
Posted October 16 2012 - 07:47 AM
I can't comment on the speakers, since I have never listened to them. But I can comment on the power/impedance question. Wattage numbers for speakers and receivers are virtually meaningless. They certainly are NOT an apples-to-apples comparison, so trying to "match" them is a waste of time. Impedance is much more important, followed by the speaker's sensitivity (measured in dB). You want speakers whose impedance is at or higher than what is rated on the receiver. Most speakers are 8 ohms. If your receiver is rated 6 and up, you only need to be careful you DON'T get 4 ohm speakers. Sensitivity is how efficient a speaker is. An efficiency of around 90dB and up requires relatively modest power to produce very loud levels. Check the documentation that came with your original speakers and see what their sensitivity is, and compare that to the new speakers. A few dB increase in sensitivity will not only produce good volume, but will tax the receiver less and may result in improved clarity.
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Posted October 16 2012 - 07:50 AM
I've heard the Fluance before... Are they the greatest things since sliced bread? No. Will the be an improvement over what you have now? Absolutely. The biggest thing they will do is feed your "desire" for better...kinda like... I spent X on the HTiB...another Y made an improvement....I wonder what Z will do... Then you end up in a 30+ year "spiral" of HT enjoyment...
Posted October 16 2012 - 11:02 AM
I checked and I would be picking up 5.5 db sensitivity on the fronts and surrounds and about one on the center.. does that sound a decent jump? Is sensitivity the spec to be looking at primarily when comparing speakers? Also I assume the crossovers are when the speaker switches drivers to use. Are there any considerations here?
Posted October 16 2012 - 11:25 AM
does that sound a decent jump?That's huge. It takes twice the wattage to get a 3db increase in power. In this case, you will get the same sound at 1/4th the power. Less output power equals less distortion from your receiver.
Is sensitivity the spec to be looking at primarily when comparing speakers?Not the only one. That's like comparing vehicles based on horsepower alone. That would mean a 500hp Mustang and a 500hp Peterbilt would be equal. Look at the frequency response. Also look at the deviation of the frequency response. 20hz to 20,000hz would be great but you don't know if there are any peaks and valleys in the response. I'd rather have a 60hz to 20,000hz response that is + or - 3db than a 20hz to 20,000hz response (plays an octave lower) but the deviation is + or - 10db. That deviation means there are some huge peaks/valleys in the response.
Also I assume the crossovers are when the speaker switches drivers to use. Are there any considerations here?2nd order is better than 1st order but more expensive. 4th order is better than 2nd order but much more expensive. The higher the order, the more components and the more chances to screw something up. Crossovers are a combination of science and a little art of design thrown in.
Posted October 16 2012 - 11:44 AM
I will "disagree" a tad with Robert here about the importance of efficiency...in relation to where it belongs in the "hierarchy" of specs to look at. For Home Theater(which is the primary focus of this website)...efficiency "rules all". Granted I don't deal with $400 and under AVR very often...but... The "modern" ARC available from everybody(that would be YPAO, Audyssey, MCACC etc, etc...) for the most part can even out the peaks and valleys of an "inaccurate" speaker. Granted you can't compare a $70/pair Sony SSB1000 to a pair of B&W Nautilus 803... But...apples being apples...if you are choosing a $1500 5.0 set of Polk vs. a $1500 5.0 set of KEF... The only spec, for home theater use, that you care about is efficiency. Does your AVR have the guts the power either set of those speakers to the volume you wish? If you are "hedging the bet"...choose the more efficient speaker. And, by the way... An "Audyssied" set of KEF iQ still won't sound the same as a set of Polk RTi. They'll just be as "accurate as possible".
Posted October 16 2012 - 01:25 PM
I didn't mean to imply that efficiency rules all. All features of the speaker should be weighed when choosing a system. But it really boils down to what sounds best to you. If I couldn't audition a speaker, I would choose one with a flatter frequency response rather than the most efficient one.
Posted October 16 2012 - 02:13 PM
That is our fundamental difference(and I "hate" Klipsch...well the Synergy anyway)... Frequency "plot" can be corrected. It is like this. Take a Miata and a Honda S2000. It is easier to make a Honda S2000 ride/handle like a Miata(for the record the S2000 handles better...if you like a car that rides like a truck)... Than it is to make a Miata keep up with the S2000. Same thing here. You can "make up for" inaccuracy a lot easier than inefficiency.
Posted October 16 2012 - 02:43 PM
That is true. My old Pioneer even has 3 bands of EQ built into MCACC. My Dayton III speakers are a little light on the midrange and I can see that reflected in the automatic EQ settings. Being an MTM configuration, I get sensitivity, a very flat response and the silk dome tweeters that sound best to me. I would recommend these DIY speakers more often but they are 4 ohm models.
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