mulalleybs
Stunt Coordinator
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2012
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- 128
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- Brett
Just curious seeing as how I don't know much about it.
Bracing doesn't have to be complicated. You can use something as scrap lumber for that. Just brace every 12 to 16 inches and you are good. Here's an example of the dowel rod method.the bracing I've seen in most boxes looks fairly complicated
You obviously want the width large enough to accept the sub and the depth large enough so that it is a solid base that won't rock. But have you considered a sonotube? The woodworking in that design is simple and you don't need braces. The last ones I built ended up looking like this - http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/cylinderH 41 13/16 W 13 5/8 (W is the dimension id prefer to change the most) D 10 13/16 (which obviously would have to change a little bit)
I don't really care for the look of that sub to be honest haha. Well I'm really not sure once again there are too many options available! Well I guess I would prefer my most powerful bass for music if that helps out any?schan1269 said:All a port is for is to accentuate "some frequency"...
If you want a bump in 35hz, put the correct size port in. Likewise if you want a 25hz bump...
Transmission line increases efficiency and technically does not create a bump anywhere in the frequency range.
But if you want impressive bass...with an equally striking "box"...look no further...
http://www.teresaudio.com/haven/subs/subs.html
You're gonna make my head explode! Maybe one day I'll buy more 18s to make an IB but it's definitely not feasible right now. Hmm alright well do you know of a easy to follow build thread on a single 18 transmission line? If it offers that much more power per watt or efficiency over regular ported and sealed then I'll just get over how they look.schan1269 said:"Powerful bass" is subjective...
But in order of "most efficient use of available power and driver efficiency"...
1. IB...by far
5. Transmission line
7. Horn loaded
9. band-pass
10. Ported
13. Passive Radiator
15. Acoustic suspension...
There is a reason I skipped a few numbers. There are also a few I'm skipping over(Isobaric, Aperiodic...)
Haha alright, it doesn't have to be exact then? Is the whole tube the port?schan1269 said:The "easiest" transmission line would be...
Build a 20x20x"something" box and stick a 15" piece of "some pipe" of approximately 6 feet on it.
No. This is a dual 15", sealed sonosub. http://home.comcast.net/~audio-worx/page88Tube-Zilla1.htmlmulalleybs said:I think I like the looks of the box style subs more, but the sono has to be ported right? I don't have a low pass or whatever filter, nor do I know what one is lol.
He needs a high-pass filter for a ported sub since he is using a pro amp. You never want to send any sub-bass signal lower than the tuning frequency of your enclosure.schan1269 said:You don't need a filter since you have the receiver for crossover function. Adding one to the subwoofer would be a waste of time.
A ported enclosure is actually a Helmholtz resonator - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_resonance .schan1269 said:All a port is for is to accentuate "some frequency"...
If you want a bump in 35hz, put the correct size port in. Likewise if you want a 25hz bump...
Transmission line increases efficiency and technically does not create a bump anywhere in the frequency range.
But if you want impressive bass...with an equally striking "box"...look no further...
http://www.teresaudio.com/haven/subs/subs.html
I'd get it. The inductance of the Fi driver will be pretty high and the BFD can be used to tame the inductance peak in the frequency response. I had the same issue with my TC-3000 drivers.mulalleybs said:On a side note, someone is willing to sell me a feedback destroyer for $50+shipping. I have no idea how to use it/what I would need to use it for or anything... Would it still be worth while for me to get for my system?
I will agree with number 1 because you can throw 2, 4 or 50 drivers at an IB. There's no replacement for displacement when you need to move a lot of air. Other than that, items like ported and passive radiator have almost the same acoustic output since they are both really ported boxes. A PR just replaces the port. Isobaric offers no additional output since you still have the cone area of a single driver.schan1269 said:"Powerful bass" is subjective...
But in order of "most efficient use of available power and driver efficiency"...
1. IB...by far
5. Transmission line
7. Horn loaded
9. band-pass
10. Ported
13. Passive Radiator
15. Acoustic suspension...
There is a reason I skipped a few numbers. There are also a few I'm skipping over(Isobaric, Aperiodic...)