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how to connect amplifier rsa500 to denon avr 3313ci..


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#1 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 19 2012 - 02:48 AM

I know how to connect my subwoofer speakers to klipsch rsa-500 subwoofer amplifier , but I dont how to connect klipsch rsa-500 subwoofer amplifier to denon AVR. please help me guys.. on the picture , right side of amplifier , number 1 number 2 is going to subwoofer speakers. I know that .. How am I gonna gonnect tis amplifier to AVR ..how many ways to connect ? which way is the basic one ? pls help me. tank you. http://static.hometh...um.com/imgrepo/

#2 of 27 OFFLINE   Al.Anderson

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Posted June 19 2012 - 04:42 AM

The direct answer to your question is to use the receiver's SW1 pre-out to connect to the amp's LFE input. there's only one "line", so depending on how the amp works you'll either connect to the right or the left (the manual should which) or, you can get a Y cable and connect to both. My questions is are you sure you need to be doing this? The amp is only necessary if the sub is a passive sub. Most subs these days are powered subs, in which case you don't want (or need) to amplifiy the signal twice.

#3 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 19 2012 - 04:59 AM

I have never done this before.. I don't know anything about it..this is for my sister"s home.She asked me to install. because she doesn't wanna pay lot of money the geek guys..thank you so much for answering us. one more question..you said "SW1 pre-out to connect to the amp's LFE input" so what kind of cable do i need? the lfe input has 2 terminal ?.there is 2 LFE inputs on the picture .. oneis in the other one is out ? I dont have the device with me ,,I am trying to understand everything form a picture that I found on the web. and where can I find that kind of cable for this LFE and sw1 connection.. thank you so much for the answer again

#4 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 19 2012 - 05:12 AM

http://static.hometh...um.com/imgrepo/ is this rca cable gonna work ? from sw1 to LFE in ?thats it ? and if you have 2 subwoofer speaker than what s gonna happen ? when we gonna use sw2 pre out ? for the second subwoofer or something else ?pls help

#5 of 27 OFFLINE   Al.Anderson

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Posted June 19 2012 - 06:06 AM

Yes, that cable is all you need. (Unless the amp requires both connections, then you'll need a 1F-2M Y adaptor.) You won't need the SW2 pre-out unless you're going to run two subs (and even then it's not needed, but that's a differetn story). But really, before you go much further, let us know the make and model of the sub you're using. It might also help if you let us know why the sub amp was deemed necessary. Edit: I looked at the manual, and it wants a shielded RCA cable. If the one you pictured isn't shielded you can use it to start and then replace it when you get the shielded cable. Also, I mis-read the amp picture (I'm going to blame the angle), there is only one LFE in, not two. So use it (the top one); you won't need a Y-adaptor.

#6 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 19 2012 - 06:21 AM

she bought RW-5802 In-Wall Subwoofer. http://www.klipsch.c...-wall-subwoofer . thats the one she has.. I dont know if she needs amplifier or not , but she bought klipsch rsa-500 subwoofer amplifier ..according to her friends this amplifier is necessary , I dont know why either.. you think , she does not need amplifier ? if you have 2 subwoofer speaker and , one rca LFE - sw1 conection is still enough ? thank you anderson , really helped me much. http://static.hometh...um.com/imgrepo/ the connection has to be like this ?? thats it ?

#7 of 27 OFFLINE   Al.Anderson

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Posted June 19 2012 - 08:48 AM

In-wall! That's the one case where passive subs are still being used ... sorry about that, yes, she needs the amp. The manuals that Klipsh provieds are not great, and without seeing the connections I can't be 100% sure, but I think it's like this: - You'll only need that one LFE connection from the receiver to the amp. - The amp can handle two of those subs (each sub has two speakers). - If you only have one sub (with two speakers), you'll only be using speaker connection #1 from the amp. (The way you drew it.) The part I'm least sure about is only needing one speaker connection for the sngle sub. If you don't mind, snap a picture of the connection portion of the sub.

#8 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 19 2012 - 09:54 AM

I haven't seen the parts , she has the parts ..She gave me the part numbers and I googled it ,I got the pictures and put here..so I can not find a picture of the connection portion of the sub.I wish I could.. if you have two subwoofer , whats gonna happen ? this is the most important issue now..if u have 2 subw, , do we have to use sw2 output on avr ? if yes where we gonna take that sw2 output cable , on ampilifier ? because we have only one LFE output on ampilifier . thats what makes me sick :) we have 2 SW1 ,SW2 pre-out on AVR but we have only one LFE output on ampilifier ..its like puzzle.. you great guy . thank you . thank you.

#9 of 27 OFFLINE   Al.Anderson

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Posted June 19 2012 - 10:51 AM

Don't worry about the number of open LFE connections, that's the least of the problems. Or to put it another way, you'll run out of money or eardrums before you run out of LFE inputs. If I'm correct, the amp can power two of those dual speaker subs. If you get a second one of those subs you'll just connect it to that speaker 2 on the amp. If you then want a 3rd dual sub (and if so, great parties!) you'll need another amp. You'll get a signal to that new amp from the SW2 output on the receiver. But even if you didn't have a SW2 output (most receivers don't, your sister purchased a higher end model), it wouldn't matter; you would just go back to using that Y-splitter from SW1. If I'm wrong, and you need both speaker 1 & 2 to power the dual sub, then if you get another dual sub you'll need another amp, but getting the LFE signal to the amp can be accomplished in the same way. What makes all that possible is that there's really only 1 LFE channel in recordings, so you can split that one as many times as you need to. When a receiver has a 2nd LFE, it's just a convenience feature (so you don't have to buy a Y-adaptor).

#10 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 19 2012 - 11:05 AM

http://static.hometh...um.com/imgrepo/ here comes another one:). she has another AVR denon avr 1713..and a stereo speaker klipsch r-2650 csm.. she asked me connect this klipsch r-2650 csm stereo speaker to the AVR ,denon avr 1713..now I asked couple local guys around me , and they told me I have to connect 4 wires.. red black white green .. so , I thought about 14 gauge monster wire 4 conductor .. well as you see on the pictures , the AVR has speaker output , front , center surround ... an d the stereo speaker 's one side black and red and the other side is also black and red.. how am I gonna connect this one ? should I connect the AVR side with 4 cable ? let s say front left positive and negative and front right positive and negative.. if this one is correct ( that I am not sure ) , how am I gonna connect the speaker ? 4 different colour wires go to speaker .. if you dont answer me , I can understand:P, you really made my day today,, I learnt lot from you..thank you.. there will be no new question :) .thank you for everyting.

#11 of 27 OFFLINE   Al.Anderson

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Posted June 19 2012 - 11:48 AM

Here's the #1 rule of the forum - do not purchase Monster anything! Get your cables/wires from Monoprice or Bluejeans (Monoprice is probably a bit cheaper). Monster is extremely overpriced and is only average quality at best, so you wind up paying premium prices for run-of-the-mill products. Do not, do not, do not, talk yourself into "splurging since I've committed so much already"; you are getting an inferior product. If you don't have time to buy online, just go to a Home Depot or some such, there's really not much difference in the connection products. As for that speaker, it's only meant to use two of the channels (instead of the normal one). So you want to use it with either the R&L front, or the R&L surround. You'll either need more speakers for the other channels, or if she just wants the stereo, you can tell the amp to not use the other channels (and then this would go on the front R/L). You don't have to spend extra money to buy 4 strand wire, it's just a convenience, and the green/white is just to make it easy to differentiate. But if you're buying standard speaker wire anyway, just use two runs of that and mark the 3rd and 4th wire with tape or something (on both ends). (On the other hand, if you have the money and you're going in-wall, having the color coded wire will save you from having to do a wire check if the tape comes off.)

#12 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 19 2012 - 12:09 PM

http://static.hometh...um.com/imgrepo/ well its my mistake , the one she bought is not a monster cable ,its 14 gauge cable 4 conductor .. you re right , I heard that monster is just balooney.. this new picture that I drew is correct ? (I mean if I go with the in wall color coded wire ).. or if we go with just 2 conductor wire , what is the number , alphabet 1 . 2 , 3 , 4 -- a,b ,c , d combination ?

#13 of 27 OFFLINE   Al.Anderson

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Posted June 19 2012 - 10:52 PM

Yes, that's the correct wiring pattern. Maybe I misunderstood your question, but the connections don't change based on the wire, the different colors just help you get it right. You could use 4 strands of brown zip cord as long as you connect 1b, 3a, 2c, 4d. You didn't ask, but I'm gonna mention this anyway, it seems a sort of overkill (or a waste) to use that nice receiver to run a single-stereo speaker. Unless they're in completely different portions of the house. There are a few other limitations, but if your sister is not running all 7 channels on the other system, she could use the zone2 to drive the single speaker stereo.

#14 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 20 2012 - 02:54 AM

she bought a house.. the house is old but very big . I guess thats why they bought the second avr. speaker cables that I am gonna install are each at least 120 feet .. its a big a house.. people told me go with "14 gauge wire" ..some of them told me 12 gauge but I called the company klipsch , and they also told me 14 gauge..what do you think ? its okey ? 14 gauge but this is gonna be long run.. jjust wondering , whats with zone 2 ? if we used the first AVR "denon avr 3313ci" (the first one that with subwoofer amplifier) , you think , it would be enough for all music system in the house .. how would we connect to stereo speaker to denon avr 3313ci ? could we connect the stereo speaker' s cable to SURROUND BACK OR FRONT HEIGHT ? BECAUSE you said ZONE 2 .. can u explain what it is ? what is zone 2 or zone 3 ? I am just curious.. thank you .

#15 of 27 OFFLINE   Al.Anderson

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Posted June 20 2012 - 11:28 PM

I usually downplay large guage speaker wire, but 120' is a long distance. Based on this excellent article, you should be using 12g (and you're on the boarder for requiring 10g). http://www.roger-rus....htm#wiretable. The 'zone' feature on receivers allows yo uto run a completely different program for that zone. It does the older A/B speakers one better by allowing completely different source selection, different volume and tone controls. So you could be listerning to you DVD player in the primary zone, and listening to the CD player on zone2. The major downside is that on many receivers you can not send a digital source (HDMI) to zone2, so it's usually used for FM or CDs. I think some expensive receivers allow HDMI; I didn;t check the 3312. The secondary downside (to me) is that you have to 'select' the zone, usually using the remote, and it's hard to tell what you're really doing, since often zone2 is not audible in the location of the receiver. So if the use of the second sound system is in a different part of the house, using a second receiver makes sense (to me). On the other hand, if you want to control a patio or deck that's adjacent to a living room or den, then using the zone feature works well. Zone2 is connected by either using the rear channels, or using a amp connected to the zone2 pre-outs.

#16 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 21 2012 - 03:31 AM

excellent .. thank you ..thank you ... thank you.. well theyhave already ordered the wires yesterday. They ordered 14 gauge.. they are so impatient ..because according to that web site you gave me , I need to go with 10 ,12 gauges.I hope everything will work..I am gonna start tomorrow..thank you . I really appreciated ..

#17 of 27 OFFLINE   karlaa

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Posted June 22 2012 - 06:24 PM

thanks for suggestions. karla honeymoon suite band

#18 of 27 OFFLINE   daaro234

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Posted June 29 2012 - 02:24 PM

14 gauges in wall cable .. average 100 feet .. is this gonna be problem ? fire or damage to house ? pls any idea..

#19 of 27 OFFLINE   gene c

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Posted June 29 2012 - 03:58 PM

I think a loss in signal quality is the only problem with using thinner wire. Unless you're pushing a 1000 watts through it, fire or any other damage really isn't a concern. CL-2/CL-3 is used in-wall since the outer jacket slows the burn rate should a fire be caused by some other means. This helps prevent the fire from tranferring to the upper floors or adjacent rooms. Fire can travel over regular speaker wire much easier. I think 14g CL should be fine, even though I usually recommend 12g for everything. Most think it's over-kill (and they're probably right). You can change speakers, receivers, amps, etc as often as you like but you only want to the run wire once. Do it right the first time.
"Everyday room": Panasonic 58" Plasma, Dish HD DVR, Pioneer Elite vsx-23, BDP-23 BR, dv58avi universal dvd player, Paradigm Studio 20 V1, CC-450, Dayton HSU-10 subwoofer.

"Movie/Music room": Toshiba 65" DLP, Dish HD receiver, Marantz 7005, CC-4003, BD-7006, Polk LSI25's-LSi7's-LSiC, 2 original Dayton 10" "Mighty-Mites" subwoofers. (subject to change without notice).
 
Also have  MB Quart Vera VS05 +.....too much to list. Help me.
 
 

 


#20 of 27 OFFLINE   Al.Anderson

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Posted June 29 2012 - 11:57 PM

I don't believe you even lose signal quality, just volume due to the % resistance. You definitely want to use the in-wall rated wire as Gene mentioned. Besides being code in probably every location (and therefore could affect insurance payout), dying is not a fun part of HT.