How to surge protect a projector??? (1 Viewer)

Ok, so I am in the middle of my HT build and I have prewired power to the ceiling projector location..... Only thing I got concerned about last night was.... how the heck do I surge protect the Projector. I mean sure I have a surge protector in my rack for all my av equipment in the rack, but shoot nothing is protecting my prjector, and it is the most expensive piece of all.....

Ideas, suggestions, etc...

I am about to start drywalling so If I need to make a wiring change I need to make it now!

This was my only idea.... Run romex from my rack location to the ceiling outlet. use an outlet box on the rack end of the wire run, and then splice a standard cord (a dishwaser cord to be precise) to the romex inside the junction box. Then plug the cord into the surge protector in the rack. Basically this would make the run to my ceiling projector act like an extension cord, but of course the romex is rated for in wall use whereas a normal extension cord would not be.

Not an electrician so are there flaws in this plan... Is there a better way to protect my projector... help!

Ok, so I browsed around some and found some in wall units, that mount in the recepticle box.... I like this idea much more than the idea of rigging up the above solution....

I found in wall units by SCP (structured cable products), and Panamax. The Panamax ones have some wiring requirements that are not entirely clear by their website to keep their warranty good. Also the Panamax unit is a 2 gang, and the SCP one is a single gang. Tripplite has a unit that fits right over the outlet, but it then projects out 2.5 inches.

Any thoughts on these solutions?

There are three options. Panamax, Monster and others make a double gang in-box model. It just wires up like a regular outlet. Here is the Panamax model: http://www.panamax.com/Products/In-Wall/MIW-POWER-PRO-PFP.aspx
Panamax and Midlite also have a kit that lets you use your surge protector in your rack. It is essentially is a long in-wall extension cord. For this to work to need to run the projector outlet to a box behind your equipment. It is not a "regular" outlet. These kits are just as expensive as the in-wall models, so they only make sense if you are bought a high end power model for your equipment rack. Its also nice because you know your PJ will be on the same phase as your other gear. If you are dealing with a normally wired outlet where your PJ is this solution won't work.
The other solution is a small surface mount surge protector that is designed to fit behind wall mount TVs.
The first two options are your best bet.

This should work for all but the most difficult power problems. http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Suppressor-Receptacle-Commercial-Specification/dp/B0006I33Y6 . It's a Leviton duplex AC outlet.

I know little about electronics, but when I mention this to my electrician when setting up my projector, he suggested a whole house surge protector which is attached directly to the box with my circuit breakers.

Brian-
I was rushed when I replied to your post this morning. The kit than I mention essentially allows you to do what you want to do in your first post with running romex back to your surge protector. It just looks a lot more polished and meets code, where your pigtail doesn't. Here is a link to the Panamax solution: http://www.ramelectronics.net/manufacturers/panamax/panamax-miw-xt/prodMIWXT.html HTF members get free shipping if you use coupon code htffree.

Craig-
I recommend a whole house surge protector, plus a high quality surge protector where your AV gear is.

Brian,

What your were originally planning is what I am doing in my own Theater that I am currently working on. I had a Pro Theater Design Company ($100 Charge to just make a diagram and check to set the best possible set up using my equipment. This was lucky I found someone for this price, but check in your area and call and ask what they would charge if your not already too far along.) come out and help with the speaker placements and wiring diagram of what I needed and where at. This helped in making sure I didn't make a mistake and leave a cord out as well as having no feedback in a line due to doing something I shouldn't have.

He advised me to run dedicated lines for the Subs and Projector. I did that by running 12-2 from their final locations back to my A/V room where i dead ended them in an standard electrical 2-gang wall box. I will then hook an SO cord cut to length for each line with a male end and plug them direcly into my power conditioner/ surge protector with my other components.

Good Luck,

Chris

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Interesting that the pigtail method is not code (aka Adam's post) yet Sparks' Home theater people suggested exactly that. weird...

I have all my AV equipment on one circuit, IE the outlets for the AV rack, projector, and sub. So I'm not planning on rerunning any wire.... That and I just finished drywalling the ceiling so rerunning cable really isn't something I want to do.

I have wanted a whole house surge protector for a while, so I think I will bite the bullet on that. That combined with the in wall surge protector at the ceiling box will be enough for my piece of mind. So that is going to be my plan, and it does prevent me from rewiring anything.

Thanks again for the suggestions...

I have wanted a whole house surge protector for a while, so I think I will bite the bullet on that. That combined with the in wall surge protector at the ceiling box will be enough for my piece of mind. So that is going to be my plan, and it does prevent me from rewiring anything.

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Nothing wrong with that, sounds like a good plan. Have you considered posting pictures here so we can track your progress?

That's good to know. Thanks for sharing.

Jess

I didn't make a mistake and leave a cord out as well as having no feedback in a line due to doing something I shouldn't have.
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I didn't make a mistake and leave a cord out as well as having no feedback in a line due to doing something I shouldn't have.

Not that I want to resurrect an old thread...but...

I always pre-plan for a UPS. Surge is great and all, but a UPS will allow the fan to run for a bit before shutdown. I would never install a projector(or DLP RPTV) without one.

Not that I want to resurrect an old thread...but...

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It's only 46 months old !!Can you help me troubleshoot a Commodore 64 computer?

schan1269 said:

I always pre-plan for a UPS. Surge is great and all, but a UPS will allow the fan to run for a bit before shutdown. I would never install a projector(or DLP RPTV) without one.

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Meh, waste of money. Unless, I suppose, you are getting a percentage on the unnecessary components sold.

Nope, when it comes to projector lamps this has always been my motto:



Closest I come is unplugging all gear during electrical storms, yes I always do that.

I don't take a % of anything. I get paid for the plan/initial consult. I don't care if the theatre is $10,000 or $100,000.

And yes...electrical storms, yeah...turn the stuff off(and unplug) and go read a book. But, does everybody do that?

I like to keep DVRs on UPS as well. Always sucks when you have a power flicker* and you have to wait 5 minutes for your DVR to gather itself.

This 4 county area in northwest Indiana and the two directly west Illinois counties are prone to power outtages that last less than a second. I've had 12 this month. Even though the entire house is on a UPS/generator, the control panel for it sits by the garage door. Keeps a monthly running tab of power outtages(the generator runs once a week anyway. It keeps a running monthly NG use tab).

BrianAg95 said:

I have wanted a whole house surge protector for a while, so I think I will bite the bullet on that.

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Appreciate that a protector does not block, stop, or absorb destructive surges. It is only a connecting device to what actually does protection. More important than a 'whole house' protector is the device that actually does protection. That harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules.

If an earth ground wire from the protector (breaker box) to earth goes up over a foundation and down to an earth ground, then protection is compromised. That wire would be too long. Is bundled with other non-grounding wires. And would have sharp wire bends. IOW that connection has excessive impedance.

Upgrade earthing by routing that typically quarter inch bare copper wire from the breaker box, through foundation, and down to single point earth ground. Shorter connection. Eliminates sharp bends. Separated from other wires.

Defined are two components of a protection 'system'. A protector connects to protection. Protection is what harmlessly absorbs hundreds of thousands of joules. All four words are critically important here: single point earth ground.

Protection already in every appliance makes most surges irrelevant. Your concern is a rare surge (maybe once every seven years) that would overwhelm existing protection inside every appliance. Nothing adjacent to appliances averts that type of surge current. Critical to making a surge current irrelevant is the path that connect that current outside the building and 'low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet', not inside metallic conduit, etc) to earth.