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Kryptonitewhite's PICS and VIDS build log Fi IB3 18" and 22"


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#1 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 04 2009 - 11:21 PM

We shopped for a Buick Rendezvous or Pontiac Aztac so we could get >18 cubes and still have room for kids, grocieries and such and avoid getting a minivan. Explorers, Blasers, Bravadas, and the like we'ren't nearly enough.

Basically we are walling the hatchback. >20 cubes, 8" port. This is temporary until a 21" or 22" driver of similar specs is finished. ( >30mm Xmax, <20Hz Fs)

I originally designed it to have the sub on top and port on bottom, but once the 22" is in, side by side works better.



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#2 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 05 2009 - 05:38 AM

a little aqward Posted Image

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free air 16Hz or 20Hz

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bass i love you free air aprox 4.5 - 18 watts according to DMM... demo just to show 7Hz signal is lowest, not 18Hz in that track

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DMM showing 5.7 volts during 7Hz tone, 6x6=36 watts/2 ohm= 18 watts

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no more than 12 watts DMM

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#3 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 06 2009 - 05:43 AM

Got some 8" sonotube. My piece is actually 7 3/4", they make 3 sizes of "8 inch" for shipping purposes.


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#4 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 07 2009 - 07:46 AM

Tear down


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#5 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 07 2009 - 10:27 AM

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#6 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 07 2009 - 03:21 PM

As of yet, every box I have built was constructed out of car. This one is going to be along these lines, and I am struggling with caulk/glue and screw. I am OCD and anal when it comes to this.... so I am hoping for a bunch of links with different pics like these showing how best to put front/back/top/sides together securely. I'm hoping I don't just glue/caulk the hell out of it and set them together.... I am used to flush ands butted up together and putting 2 1/2" screws in.... but when it's the entire height/width/depth, you can't get in there to drill.

Any help is greatly appreciated!


found these pics on the net, not mine:


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#7 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 07 2009 - 05:55 PM

I'm not so sure about driving screws strait into the sheetmetal, nor will I use any 2x6 or 2x4... but here's something a bit off course

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#8 of 16 ONLINE   Cees Alons

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Posted February 07 2009 - 08:50 PM

Welcome to the forum, Jordan!

Although it's roughly clear to me (I think Posted Image ) what you're intending to do, could you please explain what you want to achieve and what your question(s) is (are)?

Most readers may be puzzled by the amount of pictures you post, which are really "yours" and you and which are others. It helps (I think) if you'd post some clarifying text without to many pics.

Good luck with your project, BTW!


Cees

#9 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 08 2009 - 02:12 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cees Alons
Welcome to the forum, Jordan!

Although it's roughly clear to me (I think Posted Image ) what you're intending to do, could you please explain what you want to achieve and what your question(s) is (are)?

Most readers may be puzzled by the amount of pictures you post, which are really "yours" and you and which are others. It helps (I think) if you'd post some clarifying text without to many pics.

Good luck with your project, BTW!


Cees


This is simply a build log if anyone is interested. Until my last 2 posts, I had no questions. While I am no pro, I don't generally go to forums just for help.. I give it sometimes, share a lot, but that last 2 posts I am wondering:

" I am hoping for a bunch of links with different pics like these showing how best to put front/back/top/sides together securely. I'm hoping I don't just glue/caulk the hell out of it and set them together.... I am used to flush ands butted up together and putting 2 1/2" screws in.... but when it's the entire height/width/depth, you can't get in there to drill.

Any help is greatly appreciated! "


I know this is not a car audio environment, but, we're almost all of us into sub-box making, and a good number here probably surf a car forum once in a while and see pics, and maybe have done an install or 2 Posted Image

Thanks in advance!

#10 of 16 OFFLINE   Greg_R

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Posted February 09 2009 - 10:46 AM

You should take a look at pocket screws. These can be used from the inside the enclosure and will pull the joints tight while the glue takes hold. The Kreg 'rocket' jig is <$30 and will work for you. Note: you will need to drill the holes outside of the car and then assemble the panels inside the car. Obviously some planning will be required but shouldn't be an issue for you (given the size and amount of planning required for your overall project).

#11 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 09 2009 - 05:27 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R
You should take a look at pocket screws. These can be used from the inside the enclosure and will pull the joints tight while the glue takes hold. The Kreg 'rocket' jig is <$30 and will work for you. Note: you will need to drill the holes outside of the car and then assemble the panels inside the car. Obviously some planning will be required but shouldn't be an issue for you (given the size and amount of planning required for your overall project).

GregI have asked that question all over, and I am glad to finaly get a solid answer. I am checking into that now. Thank you!!!

so I couldn't wait anymore, I decided to use the wood I have to build a quick box to get us through so we could take our time and do the final box as good as we can. so we re-took some measurements so we could build as big as we could outside and slide it in. I didn't calculate anything, just got the max dimensions and made the port go all the way back less 1 port diameter.... I just did it and what a trip, it's right where we were aiming for anyway... we might just keep this box as is unless we do get a 22".... I put the port close to the sub to get more wall clearance, making this box obsolete for a 22"...cuz it is ... was... just a temp sloppy box to get by... well check this, I was aiming for >20 cubes and 15Hz tuning.... and now that I sat down, we have 22 cubes @ 15Hz with a 20" port length. What are the freakin odds?!

I'm keepin it as is. Now the big debate may as well start now, so after I post these pics here ( camera died, I have to go out and take more pics now that we're home... box basically complete in-car....)

After this post I'll post my plans I made 2 weeks ago... showing we are on target as is Posted Image Posted Image

taking out factory

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considering leaving factory in and putting CD deck in center console

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looks good

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the driver side power window has been intermitten... switch is going bad... decided to pull the door apart too to replace switch and see what we're working with to put 2 Extremis 6.4's in each door... fiberglass/bondo

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thank god ya can't see my measurements, cuts, or close ups of the final outcome... I was in a hurry to get something in by the end of the day

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freezing rain and windy all day

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front... close to wall/baffle size to get an idea of what the wall will be like

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blurry... shows how close we are, taking up just about everything we can

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bottom too

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my sausages stickin out... i liked sitting inside the box when it was complete too

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#12 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 09 2009 - 06:27 PM

BEFORE WE GET INTO THE BIG DEBATE:

I have t-nuts and #10 security screws that do not fit into the mounting flange holes on the sub!!!!

OK, debate on.

I know, I know... "why tune below 25-27Hz in car?!" Music rarely has information below 30Hz... why tune below 33Hz!!! Car's cabin gain can be as much as 12dB/oct from 60Hz on down.... yadda yadda.

For those of you that will NOT be able to just deal with it, please PLEASE just pretend it is 22 cubes SEALED for an IB sub! PLEASE! ( I know you won't but at least I asked) Since you know so much, then you know that all vented cabinets act as a sealed enclosure above the range where the port helps. So me tuning at 15Hz, IF the port is never used cuz my music doesn't go that low, I would be more than happy with this sub in a sealed cabinet of it's size, especially after cabin gain. (not really, but I'm tired of this argument)

I have done this before. The 4th order bandpass design you see in my avatar (some of your forums require too much effort to add a custom avatar, I will include a pic) is with an F3 of 20Hz and an S factor of .7 I designed it from Shavono.com before I learned how to use Bass Box Pro 6 and WinISD Pro. My POS Lanzar amp bottomed the sub before I got to even seal the lid... it's advertised shut off mute did not work after testing.... so the former smashed on the top plate and the coil unwound. I had to cut it open and it became a vented cabinet of 5.1 cubic feet tuned to 19Hz. I had an S15L7 in 3.5 cubes @ 27Hz. I have been there, i have done that, I have heard good setups tuned to 33Hz and 27Hz, deal with it!


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#13 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted February 10 2009 - 01:28 PM

did a few layers of spraypaint today, will put some stuff from a can on for the final coat(s) got a red top under the hood, had to get a top post clamp because the car terminal ring plus the power wire ring were too thick and kept stripping out.

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This was a few weeks ago with 18.5 cubes @ 17Hz. We just happened to get where we actually wanted to be with our "temporary" sloppy box. 22 cubes 15Hz.

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#14 of 16 OFFLINE   kryptonitewhite

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Posted October 23 2009 - 07:52 AM

My enclosure is 21 cubic feet after sub/port displacement, tuned to 15.42Hz. The port is a 7.75" sonotube 19.5" long, leaving 8.25" port clearance at the back.

external 42" wide = 40.5" wide internally
front 38 tall, rear 32 tall = 36.5" + 30.5"= 33.5" average height
bottom depth 30.5" top 28" = 29 + 26.5 = 27.75" average depth

40.5 x 33.5 x 27.75 = 21.788 cubs before sub/port displacement

7.75" x 19.5" = .532 cubes port displacement + .22 sub displacement = .752 total disp

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WinISD with 21 cubes with 7.75 x 19.5 says 15.42Hz tune, and I round under, so close to 15Hz.

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So here is my problem. Bass I Love You has a 16Hz tone. I had more excursion at the 16Hz tone than I did on the 30Hz and 25Hz tones. Please excuse the very poor quality of this video, turn your speakers down!

http://www.youtube.c.../31/zD9FU-SZLOY

also note, very little port velocity. that 2 liter bottle barrely moves, and not much air blew through without the bottle in it either.

Now here is sub_junkie's vid. He is 7.6 cubic feet tuned to 15Hz as well. IDK where his SSF is set to, but mine was at 15Hz. You can turn it back up for his vid.

http://s536.photobuc...orSale005-1.flv

his excursion is just the opposite: more excursion on the 25Hz and 30Hz, very little on the 16Hz, as it should be, correct?


Here is another video of mine with a much better camera just to get a better view and listen of things. Please bear with me, it's a rap song, but the bottom note on this track is 26Hz I believe. Willie The Kid : Love For Money

http://www.youtube.c.../18/3jzenFwzkZk

same song, different vid

http://www.youtube.c.../17/yGWsO36WPtc

PLEASE HELP! THANK YOU!



#15 of 16 OFFLINE   Empirefan70

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Posted December 07 2009 - 12:09 PM

LMAO good lord, you’ll, going to damage that car with the amounts of SPL db! Remember don’t play too loud it will damage your, hearing beyond repair!  Also at close proximity, I’m guessing (less than 1 metre away) in a car. I value my hearing a bit more today, and tinnitus is no fun or joy, just remember that. Ether, way play safe and you’ll have many years of listening enjoyment. You wouldn’t get my JBL sub in the back that car, its just a few more inches bigger, but its used for the home not the car LOL. How much was that 22” beast!?
The audience is listening to 56KW!

#16 of 16 OFFLINE   Empirefan70

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Posted December 07 2009 - 12:21 PM

Well besides overloading the microphone it’s not a good video at all because it’s just distorted noise!!! Plus you’re lows shouldn’t overwhelm the rest of the mix, otherwise its just noise that no one will listen too. I’ve heard far too many of those lousy videos car Hi-Fi on youtube, no pun, just uses separates to recorded the sound as it sounds in the car or other. Plus sticking plastic bottle in the port to show-off air turbulence will rattle and that will add to noise. I’ve felt better wind with nature itself and that is one thing a car Hi-Fi can not even touch, without producing wads of noise. I had to turn the video off because it was too much of joke to listen to. I’ve heard Sensurround sounding better than this in 1974.
The audience is listening to 56KW!





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