Posted August 05 2006 - 03:30 PM
| Originally Posted by drobbins |
This one will have a new house connected to it. First one destroyed by water. Second one we are currently using. My brother is buying this house, so we will build another. The new theater will be in the basement with a drop ceiling. I think I have the theater stuff down as much as our budget will allow. Still a few questions:[list=1][*]Do drop ceilings allow more or less sound upstairs?
Drop ceilings will do almost nothing to help in soundproofing (or to be more accurate, sound isolation). Drywall is much better. 5/8 is better than 1/2 inch. Doubling up on the drywall will help. If it is MOVIES we are talking about, and you have a subwoofer involved, the toughest sound to stop is the low frequency "thump... thump... thump..." of the subwoofer. That takes a lot of mass in order to do.
I am building right now, in a basement, and I have engaged the following techniques to try to contain the sound:
-Double stud walls (I am actually builing two separate walls, one inside the other, on three sides of the room.
-Use of sound isolation clips to partially decouple the inner walls from the ceiling joists above.
-Use of sound isolation clips and hat channel to partially decouple the ceiling drywall from the ceiling joists above.
-Two layers of 5/8 drywall all around all walls. Two payers of 5/8" drywall all around the outsides of the second outer wall studs, as well.
-Two layers of 5/8" drywall on the ceiling.
--Exterior solid core doors, with threshold. Every air gap is getting calked and sealed up tight. Even the outlet boxes, sconce boxes, gaps between walls and ceiling, walls and floor, etc.
-Insulation (fiberglass R19) in every ceiling joist cavity and in every stud cavity on both sets of walls.
You have to decide how much treatment your budget can stand, and how important sound isolation is to your own lifestyle. However, to steal a truism from one of the best experts who builds and designs many of these for a living:
"Think of the room as an aquarium, and think of the sound as the water. You MUST treat all surfaces. If you cut a one inch hole in that aquarium, it does not matter how strong and how thick and how effective the glass was on the other five surfaces... you are still going to find that ALL of the water has leaked out and is now spilled all over your floor. The same is true. of sound. You can treat the walls and ceiling, as an example, but ignore the floor, and the sound will even make use of that concrete slab, which DOES have a resonance point and WILL vibrate when your speaker hits that frequency. And, even a huge concrete slab can be very effective at transferring sound elsewhere. It can transfer its vibration, say, to another wall, which will really vibrate, and then it is -- of course -- attached to your joists which vibrate, which are attached to the floor upstairs, which vibrates easily, ad nausem."
(* credit the perfect metaphor to Dennis Erskine).
I am even using HVAC flexible ducting which is treated on the INSIDE with canvas soundproofing. After all, the ductwork is often a direct pipeline of sound to the rest of the house.
Hope something here helps. It is NOT meant to scare you. But, definitely, choose drywall over a suspended ceiling with acoustic tiles, if you are trying to STOP the sound.
Suspended ceilings may be called acoustic tiles, but this has NOTHING to do with stopping the sound, or isolating the sound. And, those tiles do virtually nothing to stop the sound or isolate the sound. You may as wll put up nothing.
| Originally Posted by drobbins |
[*]I am still trying to figure out how to bolt my theater seating to the concrete floor. The floor will be carpeted and there is not enough room under my seats to drill for anchors.
Some have actually just bolted the seats to studs, or built a simple wood framework, and bolted them to that. I do not know what type of seating you are planning. If these are HOME theater seats, like Berklines, most do not attach them to anything at all. Noit necessary, once they are all attached together, they are not moving.
If it is true theater seating, like that taken from an old movie theater, then I would consider the "bolt them to a stud" idea.