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Complete DIY System- Progress Pictures


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25 replies to this topic

#1 of 26 JoeGibs

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Posted September 09 2005 - 06:30 PM

The story goes like this- I'm a car audio guy, but i'm in college now, so i'm never driving. Especially with gas prices how they are, my gas hog isnt moving an inch. So now I had to find something else to do with my obsession. I decided to build a moderate audio system to watch movies on and listen to music with in the house i'm living in.

The Equipment-
Digital Cable Box (motorola through charter)
Yamaha HTR-5280 Theater Receiver
Sony DVP-S560D DVD Player
Sony PS2
Carvin DCM-1000 Sub Amp
15" Dayton Audio Titanic MKIII

Two Towers- each one will have the following-
(2)DAYTON RS180S-8 7" REFERENCE SERIES SHIELDED WOOFER
(2)DAYTON ND20FB-4 REAR-MOUNT 3/4" NEODYMIUM DOME TWEETER
(1)DAYTON DC50F-8 2" DOME MIDRANGE

Two rear surrounds- each will have the following-
(2)DAYTON RS125S-8 5" REFERENCE SERIES SHIELDED WOOFER
(2)DAYTON ND20FB-4 REAR-MOUNT 3/4" NEODYMIUM DOME TWEETER

All the speakers except the subwoofer will be powered off the receiver. I cant quite afford to be buying external amplifiers for all the speakers.

I'm building all my own cabinents, i've been doing it for a couple years now for my car, so its not too hard switching over to doing it for the home. The only major difference is i've come to like how i'm not extremely restricted on space and dimensions that I can use when designing either the subwoofer enclosure or the towers.

I've set up a gallery of my pictures on photobucket, and the link to that is http://photobucket.c...s/b192/joegibs/ and the password is gibs.

Subwoofer enclosure specs-
~5CF net space. The enclosure is tuned to 19 hz. The port is a 3x16.5" opening, giving just under 50 sq inches of port area. The port is 63" long. I've counter sunk all the screws to sit flush with the wood. I then used bondo over all the screws and seams so the wood is perfectly flush, no lines, screws, or blemishes at all. I'm going to use primer to seal the box, and then roll on with a rough textured roller a dark black. I'm going to be adding on 5" pegs to the baffle, and downfire the subwoofer.

Tower specs-
The towers are 30" in height. Each 7" woofer is getting a .36CF useable airspace. Each woofer is seperated from eachother, along with being seperated from the top chamber. The top chamber will house two 3/4" tweeters and a 2" dome midrange. These will also be painted black.

Rear surround specs-
The 5" woofer will be getting a little less than .1cf of useable airspace. It's measurements will be 9x6" on the face, with only a 4.5" depth. It will be housing both the 5" woofer and a 3/4" tweeter. These will also be painted black.

Any questions/comments/constructive critique welcome

thanks for looking

#2 of 26 Robert_J

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Posted September 10 2005 - 12:23 AM

Why two tweeters per cabinet? Even if you used one tweeter, you would still have to pad it to bring it down to the level of the mids and woofers. With two you will have to use more padding.

-Robert

#3 of 26 Paul His

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Posted September 10 2005 - 12:45 AM

Two tweeters will also produce cancellations at various frequencies, as well as destroy imaging - you'll have two clearly identifiable sources of high frequency noises on each speaker, and you want one.

Paul

#4 of 26 Brian Fellmeth

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Posted September 10 2005 - 03:32 AM

To beat the dead horse, 2 tweeters bad idea. They will step over each other, and even only one will already be too loud relative to the other drivers without padding. No upside at all to the second tweeter per cabinet.

Do you have a plan to filter the signal to the woofer and midrange drivers ? The crossover you posted earlier will serve to high pass your tweeter somewhat, but will likely let it get more signal <3000 Hz which that cheap tweeter won't handle well (and adding the second one won't help).

Why create separate chambers for the woofers ? Since these yowers are sealed (I think), the woofers will perform better if they share a larger volume.

#5 of 26 Geoff L

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Posted September 10 2005 - 11:35 AM

Beating the horse again, two tweets on the face of each speaker, BAD idea.

Maybe he plans to have one tweet fire from the rear side of the tower.???

Brace and share space for the woofs as already mentioned, better idea IMO also.

5" from bottom to the subs base plate, well it certainly won't hurt anything, but it might look kinda strange, 3 to 3.5 would be enough and likely look much better IMO. For comparision take the SVS PB-Ultra/2, only 3" clearance and more VD firing onto it. With 5"s of clearance to the subs base plate, cats, small dogs, lord knows what could get under their.

Certainly no one is trying to beat up on your design/ideas for speakers (and the sub=me), but rather offering constructive questions in/of the designs and giving their take of things you might want to look at/into.

Good luck with your project/s, your certainly taking alot on for a first HT project. I'm sure they'll look great with your prior cabinet building/finishing experience.

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#6 of 26 JoeGibs

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Posted September 10 2005 - 01:30 PM

alright, so its quite apparent that two tweeters on the front face is bad... so would you recommend one on the front and one on the back? would that work alright? my reasoning with the 5" pegs on the sub enclosure was just to make sure there was more than enough space, but if you say 3.5" or so is fine i'll go with that instead. and as for the crossovers, i sent back the ones i had before to partsexpress to get a refund, and i matched frequencies together with the crossovers so there's very little gap inbetween if any at all.

as long as i have people's attention, i have a question. how exactly do i get the signal from my receiver to my amplifier? there's no RCA connections on the back of the amplifier, only larger plugs.

Posted Image

thats the back of the amplifier, i'm really confused with this.

#7 of 26 Brian Fellmeth

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Posted September 10 2005 - 03:23 PM

You will need one of these :

RCA to 1/4 adaptor

#8 of 26 JoeGibs

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Posted September 10 2005 - 04:00 PM

and its just a single rca cable going to it, not for example a red and a white 2 channel?

#9 of 26 Brian Fellmeth

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Posted September 11 2005 - 03:26 AM

I assume this is for the sub which is a single mono signal. The Yamaha receiver has a sub out RCA jack. Plug a single rca cable into this. You can use one half of a pair. Plug the other end into the adaptor, and plug the adaptor into the carvin input #1. Depress the bridge switch. With this setup, both channels of the carvin will combine using input #1. Run speaker wire using both red lugs on the Carvin to the titanic.

Make sure the volume knobs are way down when you fire this up for the first time !

Also, you might consider adding some bracing to your sub cabinet.

#10 of 26 JoeGibs

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Posted September 11 2005 - 11:24 AM

still waiting for a response to whether a tweeter on the front and a tweeter on the back of the tower would work fine.

then about wiring the sub, if i use both red terminals, which is positive? should i just hook it up, test it, and switch polarity on the amp if its reversed

#11 of 26 Patrick Sun

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Posted September 12 2005 - 07:05 AM

Why would you want a 2nd tweeter on the backside of full-range speaker? Will you be listening on the backside of the speaker, or the front side? Again, you'll get some mushy, indistinct sound for the "stereo" image with the extra tweeters located on backside.
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#12 of 26 KeithMoechnig

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Posted September 12 2005 - 01:33 PM

It all sounds good. but don't use 2 teweeters. It will end up wasting your time and you won't really get any improvement(in fact you will lose quality)

#13 of 26 JoeGibs

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Posted September 12 2005 - 04:27 PM

would it be better if i mounted the extra two tweeters somewhere else? as in still run them the same way i was going to on the same crossovers along with mids, but just mount the tweeters for example above or below the tv, or somewhere else away from the towers?

#14 of 26 Patrick Sun

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Posted September 13 2005 - 05:23 AM

Why the fascination for using 2 tweeters per speaker? It's just going to make it sound phasey and indistinct.
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#15 of 26 RobLJ

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Posted September 13 2005 - 11:48 AM

Hold up ninja. Posted Image

#16 of 26 JoeGibs

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Posted September 20 2005 - 04:05 PM

Many new pictures added to my photobucket page. The subwoofer enclosure is finshed and wired up, and installed in my bedroom. The towers are still waiting for a final coat of paint, but will be done by the weekend.

http://photobucket.c...ms/b192/joegibs password is gibs

#17 of 26 Owen Bartley

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Posted September 21 2005 - 11:49 AM

Wow, Joe, that is one big bedroom sub! Have you tested it yet? How does it sound?

#18 of 26 JoeGibs

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Posted September 21 2005 - 02:56 PM

sounds just beautiful. i've used this sub before, so i kind of knew what to expect, only i ran it sealed and in my jeep, so its not really the same. i cant really give it a fair judgement yet because it doesnt have any nice full range to blend with, so give me a few more days and i'll have the towers completed. but from what i've heard so far, its sounds great, and it shakes just about everything in the house Posted Image

#19 of 26 JoeGibs

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Posted September 27 2005 - 10:52 AM

finished pictures are posted on the photobucket page

#20 of 26 ChristopherD

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Posted September 27 2005 - 01:13 PM

So you went with the two tweeters up front, then?