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Help me convert my garage to a HT


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12 replies to this topic

#1 of 13 Ron-P

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Posted March 28 2001 - 08:11 AM

My garage is roughly 22x18x9. I want to convert half of it to a new dedicated HT. Currently my HT room is 12x10x8, the new one will be roughly 18x10x8. I would like to build a false wall inside the HT about 2' off the main wall behind the TV for components.

Some questions,

-Are the dimensions of 18Lx10Wx8H good?
-Should I double up drywall on the inside?
-Put carpet down or leave it a concrete floor?
-Paint the entire room (walls & ceiling) flat black?
-What type of insulation for inside the walls?
-Should I put in a solid core door?


Any help, ideas, concerns would be much appreciated.


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#2 of 13 Fred B

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Posted March 28 2001 - 09:11 AM

I hope you get some good advice......as I am looking to also convert my garage (who needs one anyway Posted Image) to a home theater.

good luck
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#3 of 13 MickeS

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Posted March 28 2001 - 09:39 AM

I know I read about someone who did this not too long ago... it was either here or at www.avscience.com.
The guy had a page with pictures from the construction and other stuff. Maybe a search will find it.

I would like to do this too, but I would first have to convince my wife that we only need a one car garage... I don't think I can. Posted Image

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#4 of 13 Ricardo E Garcia

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Posted March 28 2001 - 04:39 PM

Ron, I posted this before before on another thread but you might want to check this site out.
http://www.guidetoho...hownews.cgi?388

I'm in the process of building a dedicated HT room in my basement and I started working with this spreadsheet to figure out what room dimensions I should use to minimize resonance problems in the room.

Good luck!

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Rick


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#5 of 13 Dave Scarpa

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Posted March 29 2001 - 02:40 AM

I just recently did this knocking down my HT wall and going out into the garage 10 feet. I used a thicker Fireproof drywall on the outside and normal Drywall on the inside. After I build a Platform for my Theater seats I'm going to Carpet over the concrete floor with a Mat and Carpet. My Theater now is about 11x22. I'm still working on it but it's almost done.
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#6 of 13 Craig Crane

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Posted March 29 2001 - 03:37 AM

Good luck. Using a garage is by far the best way to go.

Craig

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#7 of 13 Alfonso_M

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Posted March 29 2001 - 04:43 AM

I’ve been researching this subject for a while now since I’m doing the same thing you are (my former garage is an unused storage room now), you can get very good ideas by reading what others did during their HT construction projects both here and on the AVS forum, I’m planning to insulate my solid walls with “soundboard” and drywall over that (keep neighbors happy), definitely carpet the floor with thick under mat (sound wave reflection), some even carpet the walls with good results, try to keep away from walls dimensions that are exact multiples(20x10x10 or 15x30)pull dedicated AC lines for your equipment, I’m installing High Hats(can lamps) in the ceiling and Sconces on the side walls with dimmers,8”or 9” high platforms for the RPTV and for a second Lazyboy behind the sweet spot area(better viewing angle), I’m planning on building custom made slide out drawers under the platforms to store DVD/Cd's(good way to use dead space), flat gray paint is a good substitute for an all black room, anyway, I could go on and on, this modifications can become a very complex project, check out this link they have very good info specially on garage conversions, good luck Posted Image
http://www.soundproofing.org/


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#8 of 13 Ricardo E Garcia

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Posted March 29 2001 - 05:23 AM

You might also want to consider something on top of the soundboard (actually underneath)
http://www.acoustica...m/page-core.htm

Take a look at the AudioSeal Sound Barrier, they recommend that you weave this material in and out of your studs to add to your soundproofing (STC 27)

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Rick


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#9 of 13 Ron-P

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Posted March 29 2001 - 06:17 AM

I did some detailed measuring last night and here is what I've come up with. Not to sure if these dimensions will work, let me know what you guys think.

The inside room measurements will be 9' wide by 16' (maybe 17) long and the ceiling will need to slope up from 6.5" at the TV end to 8' at the seating end. There is really no way around this as I have a roll up garage door which is at 7' high. I still need to park my wife's car in the garage which limits my width. My current room is 10'x12'x8'. I'll gain length, possibly loose a foot or less in width and have a sloped ceiling, thoughts?

Besides the benefit of a longer room, it may not be justifiable to build a new room and move out of the bedroom. Although I will be able to customize the room more and make it very sound proof. Right now I am on the fence if I should do this or not.

My wife prefers the HT in the house, but does not care if I take half the garage and build the HT. We will be purchasing a new Toyota Sienna towards summer and I want to park it in the garage.

Will a room that is 9'x17' with a sloped ceiling work well?


Peace Out~ Posted Image

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#10 of 13 Ricardo E Garcia

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Posted March 29 2001 - 10:09 AM

Well Ron, I tried punching in your numbers into that spreadsheet I referenced earlier. It's kinda difficult with the sloping ceiling, but I tried it first with 17L x 9W x 8H and it came up with no problem frequencies!

I then tried 17L x 9W x 6.5H and it only showed 3 problem frequencies. 173.7Hz, 260.5, and 265.6

They are less than 5% (Bonello) of the frequency previous to it. According to Bonello, if 2 frequencies are closer than 5% difference, the human ear can not differentiate between them thus increasing the SPL of that frequency.

Don't know if thats any use to you. Just trying to help.

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#11 of 13 Ron-P

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Posted March 29 2001 - 11:23 AM

Thanks for your help Rick.

I down loaded that spread sheet and gave it a shot using 17'x9'x7.25'(average of 6.5'&8') and I came up with 0 seating position peaks and one null at 289.9. It seems that the room dimensions will not give me much of a problem, which is good.

Tonight I am going to use masking tape and mask off the rooms footprint, seating and gear to see how it works out. I am also going to place a 2x4 at the location of where the room corner will be and see if I can drive my Ford F-150 in. If I can get my truck in, I know the Toyota van will fit. At least that will give me a good idea of the width I will have to play with and see if this is going to be workable project.

Peace Out~ Posted Image

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#12 of 13 Aaron Goldhamer

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Posted May 15 2001 - 03:14 AM

Looking for vintage-ish red velvet theater seats for your pending theater? I've got 600 of them, and thus would be more than willing to part with them for a modest price.

Best of luck.

-Aaron Goldhamer

goldhamer@yale.edu

#13 of 13 Brett Robert

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Posted May 15 2001 - 06:27 AM

I am building in the basement. Kind of the same things to deal with. I don't remember if you have a front projection or a rears set up. My finished room is 11'6"x23'x7'8"then there is a raised section that is 8'6". My only grip is that I can only bump my screen size so big because of width restriction. The speakers have to go somewhere. I can't afford a microperf screen. Two layers of drywall will help in the noise/sound control. A duel wall setup would work better but you are fighting space like me. I have seen people put sub floors in I don't know where you're at as far as climate, but a sub floor will help heating. I am not sure about sound effects. As far as electric I would install a 60/100amp sub panel. Then you can run the wire from there. Less interference. "Don't forget to put all the A/V equipment on one phase. Then you can put the lighting on the other phase."
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