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Paladin dies and Parts Express crimp handle?


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#1 of 7 Dag H

Dag H

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Posted December 06 2004 - 05:44 AM

Does anyone know if the Paladin dies work with the Parts Express crimp handle?

Thanks!

#2 of 7 Stephen Hopkins

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Posted December 06 2004 - 07:52 AM

I think the Paladin dies will only work with Paladin handles. The 1302 (non-ratcheting) handle is available as low as $30 online and the 8000 (ratcheting) is available as los as $41 online. Awhile back there were some sprint labeled OEM 8000 handles available for $20 each when you bought a die with it, but those deals seem to be all gone. I'm glad I got mine then, but $30 or $40 is MUCH better than paying the insane prices for Canare tools, especially if you're only doing a few batches of cables.

#3 of 7 Dag H

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Posted December 06 2004 - 09:28 AM

Bummer...I already have the Parts Express crimp handle. Thanks for the info though...

#4 of 7 John Wes

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Posted December 06 2004 - 12:53 PM

Mine works like a champ.

Look at the pics of them. They look exactly alike.

I've using mine for Canare RCA's without a hitch.

#5 of 7 Stephen Hopkins

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Posted December 06 2004 - 02:00 PM

You've been using a PE handle w/ a paladin die? Or a PE handle w/ a canare die? I know the canare dies can be made to fit the PE handle, but I thought the paladin handles used a different form factor die. Now that I look at the PE handle it appears that they use a similar form factor and the sizes might very well match up. If you have a cheapo wire stripper/crimper that can crimp your center pin for you (0.052" works very well) then you could use either of the $8.50 PE hex cripm dies to do your bottom boot crimp (0.324") and save even more money. The paladin 2649 die has the proper center pin size and bottom boot size on the same die, but costs around $35.

#6 of 7 John Wes

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Posted December 06 2004 - 04:16 PM

Yep, a Paladin die with a 20 dollar Parts Express handle. You need to adjust the squeeze just a bit. Just remove the little screw toward the jaw of the handle and move the adjuster a couple of notches.

I didn't come up with this. I found it on another site.

This is copied and pasted from another post I made on another site..

I found most of the info for this setup here.

http://www.audioasyl....ges/96817.html


Here's part of the info.

Beldon Cable 89259
Use Canare RCAP-C4F


For Canare LV77S
Canare RCAP-C77

For Canare L-5CFB RG6
RCAP-C5F




For crimp and die.. The Paladin die used with my crimps from Parts Express should do the trick...Die number 2649 and should work for both connectors listed above.

http://store.yahoo.c....c/2649die.html $20

http://www.partsexpr....number=360-048

You'll have to tighten up how it crimps somewhat with the adjustable setting toward the back of the jaw but this crimp is identical to the Paladin that sells for 40 bucks.

Quote:
3) Place the crimp sleeve on the cable *before* stripping. Otherwise you'll have to slide it over the stripped shield, and many shield wires can get caught on the sleeve in this process. This is annoying, and I did it wrong many times.
4) Use the 0.255 hex crimp for the sleeve and the 0.052 square crimp for the center pin.
5) When crimping the center pin, partially close the tool before crimping to allow the opening to guide the pin into place. Push the cable toward the tool in the process. This will prevent gaps between the pin and dielectric. Do the center pin crimp in an area with good lighting. The center conductor crimp is harder to get right than the sleeve crimp. The sleeve crimp is a slam dunk.
6) If you can, buy the B11016D pins separately from the rest of the parts (Markertek.com). Order extra pins, as they are easy to drop, and it's also possible to damage them by inserting them into the crimp tool improperly without noticing it. I dropped a couple of them into the wastebasket accidentally, and wasn't about to rummage throught the trash to find them. I also damaged one due to an incorrect insertion into the crimp tool.
7) After crimping the center conductor, you may be alarmed to see that it's at an angle with respect to the cable. This seems to be a result of the flexibility of the stranded center conductor allowing inadvertent bending of the center conductor during the crimping process. In my case when this happened, it was completely harmless. I just straightened it and it was fine.

You can save quite a bit by using this over the Canare tools.

#7 of 7 Stephen Hopkins

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Posted December 06 2004 - 04:35 PM

If i had it to do over again i would have got one of the PE handle, one of the PE hex dies for the lower boot crimp and use a cheapo wire stripper/crimper for the center pin. This would give all the propper crimping tools for around $30.