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Best Sub Driver for small enclosures


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118 replies to this topic

#1 of 119 Martice

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Posted October 28 2001 - 09:25 AM

I'm looking for a 12 inch driver that will work in a small enclosure. Something like 1.2 cf. I'm not really interested in loudness but low tight bass is desired. I have a 11 x 14 x 8 room and plan to use this sub along with full range speakers in a HT.

Thanks for all responses.

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#2 of 119 Chris_Brunhaver

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Posted October 28 2001 - 09:45 AM

Well, blueprintdrivers.com com has a couple of interesting 12" drivers. Their 1201 looks good in a 1.25 cu. ft. sealed box. It has a Qb of around .707 and an f3 of ~40 hz. For somthing a bit more over the top their 1203 looks decent in that small a box with a couple of the styke 1400 gram 15" passive radiators. There are also a number of good 10" drivers out there that may end up being a better choice as far as extension goes in that small an enclosure.


-Chris

[Edited last by Chris_Brunhaver on November 02, 2001 at 10:56 PM]

#3 of 119 Peter Jessee

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Posted October 30 2001 - 04:33 PM

The Parts Express 12" DVC driver works perfectly in 1.25 cu. ft., with f3 around 36-42 Hz, depending on whether you believe the published specs or the Dumax test. It's only $110, has a 16mm Xmax, takes 600 watts, and kicks serious butt for the price. I'm planning my next project around one.

Peter

#4 of 119 Jack Gilvey

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Posted October 31 2001 - 01:02 AM

I built a small sealed sub using the PE driver Peter mentioned. Nice, although with an F3 around 40Hz, you're not going to get the lowest of home theater lows.

If small and deep is what you're after, a passive radiator alignment like Chris mentioned might be best. That same PE driver coupled with the Adire PR-15
looks very impressive in 2.5 ft.^3

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#5 of 119 ThomasW

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Posted October 31 2001 - 01:58 AM

If you want to significantly decrease the box size use an isobaric design, and a clamshell mounting configuration.



#6 of 119 Martice

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Posted October 31 2001 - 04:27 AM

I have no idea what an "isoberic" design is. Can you please enlighten me as to what this is?

Thanks

** Jack I've seen your sub on Rudy's web page and it's really nice looking. I have a 11 x 14 x 8 room and am looking for a bottom feeding 20hz - 40hz sub. How does your sub do movies? Kyle also recommended you for instruction as well.

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#7 of 119 Jack Gilvey

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Posted October 31 2001 - 04:46 AM

Quote:
Jack I've seen your sub on Rudy's web page and it's really nice looking. I have a 11 x 14 x 8 room and am looking for a bottom feeding 20hz - 40hz sub. How does your sub do movies?
Thank you. Posted Image
For really strong response below 30Hz, I think you should look elsewhere,though. My room's about the same as yours, and this sub sounds good for movies, and it creates good "percussive" impact due to the fact that most of what we think of as bass in soundtracks is above 30Hz, where this little guy is strong. I actually measured a peak of 118db in the airplane scene in Castaway at 1 meter, so it can get loud. Below 30Hz, though, at useable SPL, you're better off with a vented or the PR option I mentioned. The PR could be smaller than the vented.
Quote:
Kyle also recommended you for instruction as well.
I must begrudgingly concede that poor Kyle has finally flipped.

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#8 of 119 ThomasW

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Posted October 31 2001 - 04:57 AM

Martice

Look here for sub cabinet designs

#9 of 119 Jack Gilvey

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Posted October 31 2001 - 04:59 AM

Thomas, consider that link stolen. Posted Image

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#10 of 119 Trenton McNeil

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Posted October 31 2001 - 05:17 AM

Guys, there is ONLY ONE sub driver to use in a small sealed enclosure:

JL Audio 12w3 D2

Run it in series to load 4 ohms.

Usually used in cars, but I can assure you it slams no matter where you place it. It does NOT go as deep as my mammoth sonotube with a 15" driver, but it is 500x tighter bass, and extremely musical and well-balanced.

12w3 driver should be $199 and is well worth every penny.

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#11 of 119 Martice

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Posted October 31 2001 - 05:23 AM

Any thoughts on BluePrint drivers namely the 1203?

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#12 of 119 Jack Gilvey

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Posted October 31 2001 - 05:28 AM

See Chris' comment? It seems to work best in a PR alignment, or in a sealed, eq-ed box (Linkwitz transform).

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#13 of 119 Brian Bunge

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Posted October 31 2001 - 05:28 AM

I'd have to think that the Blueprint 1203 would destroy the JL as far as excursion. I haven't modeled it in a small sealed enclosure but I don't think there's a 12" driver out there that could touch it! Doesn't it use the same motor structure as the 1503 and 1803?

EDIT**According to the blueprint home page they have B-stock on the 1203's. They have 6 available for $165 each! From the home page click on the News link for more info. I don't know when this was posted but I bet they'll go fast!**

Brian

[Edited last by Brian Bunge on October 31, 2001 at 12:44 PM]
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#14 of 119 Kyle Richardson

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Posted November 01 2001 - 02:00 AM

Quote:
I must begrudgingly concede that poor Kyle has finally flipped.
Jack, I cant remember the last time that I was normal Posted Image

At first he was after a very small design a la Sunfire and I pointed him to your small sealed design using the Dayton DVC. Not the best at bottom feeding but a very solid design for a small enclosure.

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#15 of 119 Jack Gilvey

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Posted November 02 2001 - 02:19 AM

Quote:
At first he was after a very small design a la Sunfire and I pointed him to your small sealed design using the Dayton DVC. Not the best at bottom feeding but a very solid design for a small enclosure.
Well, I'm flattered that you pointed him to mine. Posted Image
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#16 of 119 Jack Gilvey

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Posted November 02 2001 - 02:30 AM

quote:
I'd have to think that the Blueprint 1203 would destroy the JL as far as excursion. [/quote]
It does look that way, although I don't find the 1203 looks all that good in sealed boxes (very high F3)unless you apply eq. It does look amazing for a small LT box. If we use the 1503 motor specs (I'm pretty sure it's the same motor in the -03 series), the 1203 has actually got a little more linear displacement than a Tempest. Those $165 B-stocks are very tempting. I need to stop.

Jon Marsh had a post on using the 1203 in this way over on htguide.com in the DIY forum, but I can't get into the site right now.

[Edited last by Jack Gilvey on November 02, 2001 at 10:33 AM]
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#17 of 119 ThomasW

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Posted November 02 2001 - 06:09 AM

Jack

JonMarsh agrees with you, he's ordered the last of the B-Stock 1203's. He's planning on a small sealed boxes probably needing minimal EQ or LT help, but targeting a "Q" of 0.5. As he put's it 'the ultimate apartment/condo sub' Posted Image

#18 of 119 Jack Gilvey

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Posted November 03 2001 - 07:01 AM

Last one, huh? Saved me a few bucks. Posted Image For those interested in a small, eq'd box, here's the thread with Jon's idea for the 1203:
http://www.htguide.c....estTimeout=500


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#19 of 119 ChristianT

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Posted November 03 2001 - 04:42 PM

I have purchased a couple of 1203's for my first sub project. I began to use Unibox for some analysis and ran into some confusion. Has anyone received the actual Dumax results for the 1203 yet? If not, can anyone explain how the driver measurements on the BPD site would correlate to the driver parameter fields in Unibox? The measurement descriptions are different. I am getting a drive unit configuration error when I enter the parameters from the BPD site.

Thanks,

Christian

#20 of 119 Jack Gilvey

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Posted November 04 2001 - 12:13 AM

Christian,

Quote:
I have purchased a couple of 1203's for my first sub project
Excellent, what will you do with them?

As far as I know, only the 1503 has been Dumaxed. Which 1503 parameters are you using for the 1203? I know that Pat from Blueprint had some questions on the Dumax Re result (3.94) , so maybe you can try the Re from the Blueprint site (3.6?)
Fwiw, I only used the Xmax result from the 1503 motor in my 1203/1803 sims. Not sure if that's good or bad,though.

[Edited last by Jack Gilvey on November 04, 2001 at 07:14 AM]
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