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Sonotube wax ????


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80 replies to this topic

#1 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 14 2004 - 01:37 PM

What do I need to do to prepare the outside of my
Sonotube in order to glue something to the outside?

Thanks......

- Cam

#2 of 81 ThomasW

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Posted August 14 2004 - 04:49 PM

I've never seen a waxed or treated outside. All the tubes I've used the outside was just uncoated raw paper

The inside has thin plastic film. It's a royal pain to peel off so, just leave it in place.

Use a siliconized acrylic latex caulk (Alex Jr is a good brand) to seal and glue the end caps on place. It also works as a lubricant when sliding the endcaps into position.

#3 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 14 2004 - 06:35 PM

Mine has wax on the outside.......

#4 of 81 ThomasW

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Posted August 15 2004 - 02:45 AM

Are you sure it's wax, and not the very thin plastic film that is frequently used on the inside? Often people mistake the film inside for wax.

How were you planning on finishing it?

If it's actually wax; and since wax would soak deep into the paper, then your only option maybe something like a slip cover.

#5 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 15 2004 - 04:01 AM

When I was marking on the outside with a pencil, it was
coming off just like writing on a candle.

I was considering covering the outside with faux
leather to match my cherry wood JBLs & doing a
black gloss top & base.

The upholstery shop owner told me I would have to
staple it though, as it would show all the seams if
I tried to glue it.
I was thinking short staples (3/16" or less) at the start/finish seam and caulking the entire inside at that
seam to insure no pinholes.

#6 of 81 ThomasW

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Posted August 15 2004 - 05:15 AM

Gluing or stapling to the cardboard will be a pain if not impossible.

Why not make a slip cover? Adire does that with their Sadhara sub.

Posted Image

#7 of 81 Chris Keen

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Posted August 15 2004 - 10:16 AM

If you go to staple it, I would suggest running a 1-2 inch wide strip of MDF or some other substrate vertical against the inside wall of the tube. This would give you a better more stable material to staple into. If you do use staples, make sure they aren't those extremly narrow 1/4" crown staples. Those might tear right through the tube. I'd use a staple that had at least a 1/2" crown and mayble 1/4" to 3/8" length legs.

Also, there are a lot of better quality vinyls that resemble a grain leather. A lot depends on the color that you're going for. The nice thing about the vinyl material, is that it will usually have a stretchy property too it. Some vinyls will only stretch lengthwise or widthwise, but some will stretch all directions (four way). This mostly has to do with the backing materials. One reason I mention this, is because like Thomas mentioned, you could take the tube and some of this material to the interior place, and have them make a slip cover that had a vertical inside seem to make a nice tight stretched slip over cover. That's what I'd do, but mostly it's up to what look you're trying to create.

Here's a link to some of that vinyl, but you can probably even find some local to you.
Chris
Marantz sr8200
Onix Rocket 750,200,250 speakers
Panasonic rp82

#8 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 15 2004 - 01:56 PM

Thanks Thomas / Chris,

Quote:
you could take the tube and some of this material to the interior place, and have them make a slip cover that had a vertical inside seem to make a nice tight stretched slip over cover.


This sounds like a REAL good idea!!
Only thing, I was planning on painting everything & have
the top, bottom & base cut & ready to paint. I have the top & bottom cut with an "overhang" that will cover
the top & bottom edges of the tube.

How would I do a slipcover without covering the top plate?

#9 of 81 Chris Keen

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Posted August 15 2004 - 02:33 PM

Easy. You think of the slip cover as a sock. Now you can slide a sock over your fist and onto your arm. But imagine if you cut the "toe" end of the sock out. You've got an arm sleeve. Now, cut that arm sleeve from the wrist to the elbow. You unfold the sleeve and you have a sheet.

Now let's think backwards. The sheet is what you've got with the vinyl to begin with. You have the interior place cut it where it is obviously long enough to span the distance between the two caps. When the sheet is wrapped around the tube and sewn together, you get a sleeve. There's no need for there to be a "toe" end on the sleeve. Having the end caps protrude a bit for overhang is the best idea, as it will help conceal the edges. It might help if you can cut the endcaps ahead of time, and purchase the materials for the sleeve and take all of this to the person doing the sewing. This way they have a decent "picture" of what they're trying to accomplish for you. It should turn out nicely.

Posted Image
Chris
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#10 of 81 ThomasW

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Posted August 15 2004 - 02:44 PM

Quote:
How would I do a slipcover without covering the top plate?

Let it cover the top, but leave an opening for the port. Then make a nice finished wood top that attaches to the endcap covering the vinyl.

Posted Image

#11 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 16 2004 - 09:35 AM

Thanks guys...great ideas!

Quote:
Then make a nice finished wood top that attaches to the endcap covering the vinyl.


I wanted to do this Thomas, but I had been unable to find wide enough stock anywhere & I dont have access to a planer if I were to joint multiple pieces together.


Quote:
It might help if you can cut the endcaps ahead of time,


Everything is done & ready to "finish", except I dont
know what size opening for my port flares yet.
I am probably going to have to make a "chimney" on top
for my port to get the proper length. I didnt realize how
deep the 1503 was & my Sonotube is already cut.
I would buy more, but after seeing three 12"
tubes at Home Depot stacked inside each other I
figure the odds of my already cut caps fitting the new tube
would be pretty slim....Posted Image

#12 of 81 ThomasW

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Posted August 16 2004 - 10:42 AM

I don't have a plannar either. For Pete's tube we bought the widest oak we could find at HD. Then used biscuit joiner to attach them together and sanded down the joints. The bottom side isn't as nice as the top side you see in the picture

One could also just use a piece of oak ply and iron-on edge veneer.

The larger diameters of tube used for real construction as opposed to fence or deck use. So they (the larger diameters) are the same size and consistantly so.

The little Quick-krete forms are designed to 'nest' to minimize storage space. The size differences aren't an issue for fence posts or deck piers.

#13 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 16 2004 - 02:26 PM

Quote:
The little Quick-krete forms are designed to 'nest' to minimize storage space. The size differences aren't an issue for fence posts or deck piers.


LMAO.........those are the ones I was talking about,
couldnt freakin believe it at the time, but makes
sense now.

I guess I'll go buy another section of Sonotube then, so
I wont have any clearance issues.

My current (inside) set-up is 34" of 20", but the driver is 10" deep (actualy only seeing 9" inside) & The port is to
be 29.5" (but 1.5" of that is in top cap) so that is 37"
I need (inside) with it basically resting on the driver.

If I go to 40" inside length, that would give me 3" clearance between driver & port....is that sufficient or
am I going to need 6" of clearance??


I can offset the port only a little, but how much
clearance do I need between the driver & port end, & how much is this volume change going to affect things seeing
as another 6" in length is another cu.ft.???

#14 of 81 ThomasW

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Posted August 16 2004 - 02:37 PM

If you're going to use the 29.5" port with the flares, you need to copy exactly the dimensions of Pete's tube.

Pete's sub is made from a piece of 20" diameter sonotube cut 41" long OD .. The endcaps are 1.5" thick MDF and fit completley inside each end of the tube. The oak top cap helps with the port clearance, it adds an additional 3/4"

#15 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 16 2004 - 03:19 PM

Thomas,


Thanks, I was erroneously going for 5.5 cu.ft.

Yes I am using the 29.5" port with the flares.

That will work out great, then....Posted Image

Do you have a total yet?

#16 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 17 2004 - 11:58 AM

For the record.....I was telling you all wrong.

It is not actually "Sonotube", but a knock-off
by a construction sales company here...WhiteCap.


Thomas,

I bought some 1x12 Oak today & it is clamped &
glue is drying as I type.


As far as the slip cover you said....
Quote:
Let it cover the top, but leave an opening for the port. Then make a nice finished wood top that attaches to the endcap covering the vinyl.


How do I attach the wood top if the "slip-cover" is
covering the top cap???

#17 of 81 ThomasW

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Posted August 17 2004 - 12:33 PM

The brand doesn't matter. I've never used the Sonotube brand either

Posted Image

The slip cover doesn't need to cover the entire top. It can simply overlap the edges of the endcap a few inches. You can glue, or screw the wooden decorative top in place (we glued Pete's with epoxy). If you make it removable then you could recycle the port and flares to a different sub sometime in the future.

#18 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 17 2004 - 01:40 PM

I just wanted to clarify that it was not Sonotube as I figured that is what most people used.

I had thought about doing it that way & I use glue on
everything, no screws yet.....lol.


Thomas.....YGM

#19 of 81 Cam McFarland

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Posted August 24 2004 - 05:45 AM

What do I do as far as a crossover for my Behringer EP-2500 & my sonosub??

Also, what is a "Neutrik NL4MD Speakon" connector?

#20 of 81 ThomasW

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Posted August 24 2004 - 06:30 AM

I assume you would use a LFE out from a receiver or pre/pro.

A Neutrik Speakon connector is just an output connector for sending amplifier power to the speakers.

http://www.audiogear...esources/~NL2MP

For $3 you can buy the other end.

http://www.audiogear...esources/~NL2FC


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