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sheetrocking curved ceiling question


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11 replies to this topic

#1 of 12 OFFLINE   Eddie L

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Posted August 06 2004 - 09:40 AM

ceiling width app. 10'
ceiling length app. 12'
curve not that drastic (7.5" at midline), I almost considered using 1/2" rock but am going with 2 layers of 1/4"
could only get 8'lengths
12' not available
question is.....best putting up the widthwise or lengthwise?
I'm thinking it will curve easier by going the width
I have plenty of bracing to go either direction, so that's not an issue
thanks for any input
Ed

#2 of 12 OFFLINE   Jim_Ski

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Posted August 06 2004 - 01:30 PM

I think it's typical to run the sheets long along the long wall, but I'm not an expert.

Remember to stagger your seams when doing two-ply, and to have longer screws for that second layer.

-jim

#3 of 12 OFFLINE   Dan_Morez

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Posted August 07 2004 - 06:56 AM

I used 1/2" drywall on my front soffit, which is radius'd out appr. 7" on center.....the drywall wrapped around very easily, and I ran it length wise from a cut down 12 foot sheet....I have pics posted if that'll help explain better. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

#4 of 12 OFFLINE   Colin Goddard

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Posted August 08 2004 - 12:44 AM

I would go lenghtwise. Just a little hint. Say for example your soffit is 12 inches. When making rips on a new sheet of drywall,make as many "cuts" as you can on one side of the sheet, before you "snap" the drywall to cut the opposite side of the sheet. Also, sometime's you will get "rough edges" on the drywall that you just cut. These can easily be cleaned up by using a small hand held wood rasp. The rasp is about 5" long and can be found at any home depot or lowes for 4 or 5 bucks.

And if you didn't already know, use vinyl radius bead for a curved soffit. I like using a spray adhesive called Trimtex for installing this bead. Just spray the back of the corner bead and the edge of the drywall soffit, wait a few minutes and then apply the bead. No fasteners needed.

Cheers,
Colin

#5 of 12 OFFLINE   DelRay

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Posted August 08 2004 - 02:23 AM

The bad thing about running your drywall length ways, would be the mudding problem. Filling joints on a curve could be difficult. And it may show when painting. You should have used 3 1/2inch 12 footers cut to 10 foot 2or3 inches.(depending on the curve) Then when you tape, the joints will not show. The best thing to do would be to stack the 3 pieces of sheetrock on sawhorses about 7 or 8 feet apart. Then just put some weight in the middle. 30 or 40 lbs. The next day your sheetrock will be plenty bent. Use con. adhesive. And start you screws in the middle and work your way toward the ends.

#6 of 12 OFFLINE   Leo Kerr

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Posted August 08 2004 - 03:33 AM

Forgive me for intruding into this thread with a horrific extension of this question...

Curved walls, arched ceilings; they're all fairly straight-forward - simple curves, or, at the very worst, compound curves in one dimension.

How does one do compound curves in two dimensions? (That is, suppose I wanted a domed ceiling.) Or does one completely forgo sheet-rock and go with an insane plasterer?

Leo Kerr

#7 of 12 OFFLINE   Colin Goddard

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Posted August 08 2004 - 07:48 AM

The few dome ceilings I have worked on were framed up with metal drywall ceiling grid. It is designed to have drywall screwed directly to the grid. We had to layout the shape of the dome on the floor, and then transfer the pattern to several sheets of plywood, somewhat like a huge workbench. We then took the main runners of the grid, and cut and bent them to the shape of the dome.The main runners ran vertically from the peak of the dome to the base.The 4 foot cross tee's ran horizonally and were cut to lenght as we progressed up from the base to the top of the dome.

It looked like a big bird cage when we were donePosted Image We then drywalled it using 2 layers of 1/4 drywall. By the way, there is now drywall made to flex and curve, supposedly very easy. But, I have never used it and don't know the cost of it.

I also remember an old article in a Fine Homebuilding mag. about dome ceilings that was pretty interesting. That might be worth a search for you.

Cheers,
Colin

#8 of 12 OFFLINE   Eddie L

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Posted August 09 2004 - 04:20 PM

DelRay...thank you much for your input
I did what you said and it came out great
30# of wt. in the center for 7 hours did the trick
thanks again!
see below for 3 pics
EdPosted Image

#9 of 12 OFFLINE   Eddie L

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Posted August 09 2004 - 04:21 PM

2nd pic
EdPosted Image

#10 of 12 OFFLINE   Eddie L

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Posted August 09 2004 - 04:23 PM

3rd pic
EdPosted Image

#11 of 12 OFFLINE   Colin Goddard

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Posted August 10 2004 - 12:26 PM

Eddie L,

First of all, nice job on the ceiling! And sorry, for the bad info I gave you on your ceiling. For some reason I thought you were building a radius soffit:b You were building what is called an arc or barrel ceiling. I can't tell for sure, but if you used screw's on your ceiling' they shouldn't be more than 10" apart. I'm not trying critisize, its just code by drywall manufac. There has been a few times state inspectors came in and did not pass my job's due to screw patterns! Lesson learned!!


Colin

#12 of 12 OFFLINE   DelRay

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Posted August 11 2004 - 11:03 AM

Good job on the drywall Eddie. It looks like you've got alot of arches in your room. It's a very nice look. Keep us updated.