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I Hate T-Nuts. Alternatives?


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31 replies to this topic

#1 of 32 OFFLINE   Rory Buszka

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Posted June 23 2004 - 01:10 PM

Well, my new subwoofer WOULD have been finished today except that some of the screw holes were not dead-on and as a result my T-nuts got cross-threaded and started spinning in the MDF. My screws got ruined as well. I have heard people say some things about T-nut alternatives but the best one to me seems to be the Hurricane nuts offered by Parts Express. They will drill in on my existing off-vertical holes, and they don't require me to glue them to the MDF or hammer them in, and they will probably be less likely to cross-thread. What do you folks think?
"It sounds like it's barfing out the bass." - Zach

#2 of 32 OFFLINE   James W. Johnson

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Posted June 23 2004 - 02:02 PM

I've always had good luck with pre-drilled holes and wood or sheet metal screws..with gentle usage they will never strip.

#3 of 32 OFFLINE   Allen Ross

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Posted June 23 2004 - 02:13 PM

i am now in the same boat as you Rory, in the past few projects i haven't gotten all the tnuts to set with out a problem, there's always one that Fs up, and i end up drilling it out. I think i am going to go with deck screws or something along those lines.
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#4 of 32 OFFLINE   Robert_CA

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Posted June 23 2004 - 02:42 PM

I used the Parts Express Hurricane to mount my Tempest with great results. They are pretty stout and will not spin on you as long as you drill out the proper sized holes for them. If your existing holes are way off, another possibile solution for you may be to rotate your driver a few degrees, mark out the new hole mounting locations and re-drill for the new Hurricane nuts. Be sure to drill the new holes square to your baffle (use a small square to reference your drill to). You can seat the new nuts into the drilled holes from the inside of the cabinet if you're careful by using a c-clamp and some wood blocks). Then get some wood putty and fill in the old holes. I hope this helps. Cheers!Posted Image

#5 of 32 OFFLINE   Rory Buszka

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Posted June 23 2004 - 02:58 PM

I like the idea of the hurricane nuts. They seem to be the most foolproof solution for guys like me who tend to F(oul) things up. And though there's shipping, you get 50 T-nuts for $5. That's cheap compared to buying new ones at the Lowe's. And I can get those banana plugs I want at the same time. My holes aren't super screwed up, I think they were just the right amount off vertical to cause me trouble. I may need to drill out the holes a bit more to get the hurricane nuts to get in there properly but I will rectify straightness issues then. It just stinks because I could be rocking with some major bass right now.
"It sounds like it's barfing out the bass." - Zach

#6 of 32 OFFLINE   RodN

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Posted June 23 2004 - 09:45 PM

I've never liked T-Nuts either. I haven't got up 15 posts yet otherwise I would have put the image up. Please replace the ***s with WWW and check out what I have used.

These things will strip the metal thread before the timber they're in.
***.members.optusnet.com.au/~rodneynoble/sonosub/images/17_leg_nuts.jpg

Or the other option for me was these inserts which are much like what was mentioned:
***.members.optusnet.com.au/~rodneynoble/sonosub/images/06_driver_screws.jpg


Cheers
RN

#7 of 32 OFFLINE   Robert_CA

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Posted June 24 2004 - 10:59 AM

I forgot about them. Good suggestion Rod!

#8 of 32 OFFLINE   Rory Buszka

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Posted June 23 2004 - 01:10 PM

Well, my new subwoofer WOULD have been finished today except that some of the screw holes were not dead-on and as a result my T-nuts got cross-threaded and started spinning in the MDF. My screws got ruined as well. I have heard people say some things about T-nut alternatives but the best one to me seems to be the Hurricane nuts offered by Parts Express. They will drill in on my existing off-vertical holes, and they don't require me to glue them to the MDF or hammer them in, and they will probably be less likely to cross-thread. What do you folks think?
"It sounds like it's barfing out the bass." - Zach

#9 of 32 OFFLINE   James W. Johnson

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Posted June 23 2004 - 02:02 PM

I've always had good luck with pre-drilled holes and wood or sheet metal screws..with gentle usage they will never strip.

#10 of 32 OFFLINE   Allen Ross

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Posted June 23 2004 - 02:13 PM

i am now in the same boat as you Rory, in the past few projects i haven't gotten all the tnuts to set with out a problem, there's always one that Fs up, and i end up drilling it out. I think i am going to go with deck screws or something along those lines.
Member and Founder of the "Its Never to Big or too Loud to have in a Dorm Club"
Everyone in college should have a 9 cuft Tempest in their closest!

#11 of 32 OFFLINE   Robert_CA

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Posted June 23 2004 - 02:42 PM

I used the Parts Express Hurricane to mount my Tempest with great results. They are pretty stout and will not spin on you as long as you drill out the proper sized holes for them. If your existing holes are way off, another possibile solution for you may be to rotate your driver a few degrees, mark out the new hole mounting locations and re-drill for the new Hurricane nuts. Be sure to drill the new holes square to your baffle (use a small square to reference your drill to). You can seat the new nuts into the drilled holes from the inside of the cabinet if you're careful by using a c-clamp and some wood blocks). Then get some wood putty and fill in the old holes. I hope this helps. Cheers!Posted Image

#12 of 32 OFFLINE   Rory Buszka

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Posted June 23 2004 - 02:58 PM

I like the idea of the hurricane nuts. They seem to be the most foolproof solution for guys like me who tend to F(oul) things up. And though there's shipping, you get 50 T-nuts for $5. That's cheap compared to buying new ones at the Lowe's. And I can get those banana plugs I want at the same time. My holes aren't super screwed up, I think they were just the right amount off vertical to cause me trouble. I may need to drill out the holes a bit more to get the hurricane nuts to get in there properly but I will rectify straightness issues then. It just stinks because I could be rocking with some major bass right now.
"It sounds like it's barfing out the bass." - Zach

#13 of 32 OFFLINE   RodN

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Posted June 23 2004 - 09:45 PM

I've never liked T-Nuts either. I haven't got up 15 posts yet otherwise I would have put the image up. Please replace the ***s with WWW and check out what I have used.

These things will strip the metal thread before the timber they're in.
***.members.optusnet.com.au/~rodneynoble/sonosub/images/17_leg_nuts.jpg

Or the other option for me was these inserts which are much like what was mentioned:
***.members.optusnet.com.au/~rodneynoble/sonosub/images/06_driver_screws.jpg


Cheers
RN

#14 of 32 OFFLINE   Robert_CA

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Posted June 24 2004 - 10:59 AM

I forgot about them. Good suggestion Rod!

#15 of 32 OFFLINE   Rory Buszka

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Posted June 25 2004 - 12:15 AM

I bought the hurricane nuts. They seem like a cross between the threaded insert and a T-nut. They should go into my original holes and work great.
"It sounds like it's barfing out the bass." - Zach

#16 of 32 OFFLINE   Jack Gilvey

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Posted June 25 2004 - 12:39 AM

Yeah, the hurricane nuts are the way to go...
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#17 of 32 OFFLINE   Geoff L

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Posted June 25 2004 - 11:37 AM

Yes, them damn dreaded T-nuts.

The Hurricans work pretty good are much less fussy than the T's for sure when it comes to a slightly off center or not stright in vertical hole.

As far as mounting divers, I use COURSE thread dry wall screws for ported projects, and never have had one strip out and they hold fine. Even when holding a down firing 40-plus pound driver. Pre drill with a 5/16th bit for wood thickness up to 1" (yes that sounds to small), but it works great for a super strong bite and the MDF dose not split. The screws bit so hard that Ive actualy had one snap the screw off before getting it in. A little drop of 3-1 oil or WD-40 etc on the screw, and they install much easier.

Small high power sealed subs where the internal pressure is much greater, I have been using the hurrican nuts lately I picked up threw PE.. Like others and Rorys starting post, those bastard T-nuts are a bitch if your just slightly off with your hole. And some times you can ony get 2 of the feet to bit because of lack of room.

Using a small table square is a good suggestion to keep holes straight for those that can't afford a nice hand drill guide or commerical drill press.

For a little classier/nice look with some drivers, I picked up some really nice allen headed stainless screws & these neat stainless cupped washers to use with them. Makes for a nice looking woofer/driver install. Found them at my local ACE hardware store, they have a pretty decent screw/nut/washer/etc, selection.

Also a good "spring loaded center punch" works exellent for marking your driver holes out. Then you can pull the driver out and drill safely without worry of hurting the driver with a stupid slip. Made that mistake once and only once!!!!.Posted Image
Slipped (in a hurry) and put the bit and the head of the cordless Dewalt right threw a brand new 12" Titanic driver a year or so back.

Now that will piss a guy off!

Cheers
Geoff
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#18 of 32 OFFLINE   Hank Frankenberg

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Posted June 25 2004 - 01:44 PM

I too hate T-nuts. I use and recommend threaded inserts.
McFeely's is one source: http://store.yahoo.c....d-inserts.html

#19 of 32 OFFLINE   Owen Bartley

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Posted June 26 2004 - 03:02 AM

Rory, I didn't have a very good experience with T nuts either, you can see what happened to mine in my sig link. Someone here posted pics of a sub they were working on with another type of threaded inserts that looked amazing, I just can't remember who. If I can manage to find the post I'll let you know. They were perfectly spaced and inset, and looked like they had meen done with CAD precision! Next project I build won't have the standard T's in it.

EDIT: Ah, success!!! I found the post I was looking for. It was Ronnie Ferrell. Ronnie, I still say your sub is a work of art!

#20 of 32 OFFLINE   Patrick Sun

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Posted June 26 2004 - 03:35 AM

I guess I'm still "old school". I've used t-nuts, but I also laminate a plywood layer for the t-nuts to grip into the plywood on the inside of the MDF. I also apply glue between the t-nut flange and the plywood's surface, hammer the t-nut in place, and then put more glue on the flange and surrounding MFD area after it's been hammered into the plywood. No problems with t-nuts using my method so far.

I also do a dry fit of the t-nuts and machine screws with the driver in place to make sure the t-nut will be aligned corrected when they are hammered in place.

How do you screw in the threaded inserts? Is that by using an allen wrench?
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