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My DIY Sub project


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72 replies to this topic

#21 of 73 OFFLINE   Frank Carter

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Posted January 21 2004 - 03:39 PM

www.stryke.com
www.audioliquidators.com
www.madisound.com
www.mcmelectronics.com
www.adireaudio.com

#22 of 73 OFFLINE   MichaelBAr

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Posted January 21 2004 - 03:42 PM

http://www.partsexpr...._ID=9387&DID=7

would this amp work? This is the one I was looking at although, I'm looking at other ones also and haven't decided

#23 of 73 OFFLINE   Wayne Ernst

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Posted January 21 2004 - 03:45 PM

I'd also look seriously at the 250 watt amp from MCM Electronics. Frank provided a link to their site above. 250 watts for $89 + shipping.
"My reality check ... just bounced"

#24 of 73 OFFLINE   Frank Carter

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Posted January 21 2004 - 03:45 PM

It'll work but the 250 watt MCM is $89 plus shipping, I'd rather go with that. Even though that particular item is shipped free from Parts Express, MCM doesn't gouge you on shipping.

#25 of 73 OFFLINE   Frank Carter

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Posted January 21 2004 - 03:46 PM

I actually have one of those MCM amps powering a DIY sub using the SVS driver I mentioned in a 11,000ft^3 room and it surprised the heck out of me how good it sounds in such a large room.

#26 of 73 OFFLINE   MichaelBAr

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Posted January 21 2004 - 03:47 PM

are woofers drivers? (looking at mcm website)

#27 of 73 OFFLINE   Wayne Ernst

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Posted January 21 2004 - 03:50 PM

Frank Carter provided the link to MCM for you above. Frank actually provided you with lots of good links that you should check out, then come back to us with any additional questions that you might have.
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#28 of 73 OFFLINE   Frank Carter

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Posted January 21 2004 - 03:50 PM

http://mcm.newark.co....sp?id=50-6281A

Here's the SVS drivers I was talking about:
http://www.hometheat....hreadid=179810

http://www.hometheat....&highlight=svs

#29 of 73 OFFLINE   MichaelBAr

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Posted January 21 2004 - 03:54 PM

yeah I found that right after I posted so I edited b/c I had another question. Thanks though. What do I need to look for in a good woofer/driver? Is it all name. The mcm drivers are much more cheaper than shiva, dayton, and svs. Are they real crappy

#30 of 73 OFFLINE   Rory Buszka

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Posted January 21 2004 - 04:07 PM

Comparatively, yes. You will not get the same quality of components that you will get with a more expensive driver. Foam surrounds, not very accurate machining. A friend of mine built some subs using an MCM long-excursion 10" driver (which is no longer offered but the 12" version is still available) and the drivers just aren't that high of quality. My friend used them because they were cheap, but I would have to wonder how long the foam surrounds will last. The Dayton Quatro is a quality-built driver. Anything from Dayton, Adire Audio, Stryke Audio, etc. can generally be assumed to be well-built. the 15" Quatro sub looks like a nice option, and you would do well to follow it. That's the one I like the best, anyway. The Stryke Audio AV12 is probably out of your price range because it is $175 and takes some power to get hopping. But I'm starting to wonder about John (proprietor of Stryke). I won a woofer as a part of a contest back in, like, November or early December, and I have not had a single reply to one of my emails since just after Christmas. (Or it might have been before. It's been a long time, though.) I am wondering what is taking so long, or what is so screwed up that it hasn't been fixed in a month. Anyway, if you were going to order from Stryke Audio, now might not be the time to do so.
"It sounds like it's barfing out the bass." - Zach

#31 of 73 OFFLINE   MichaelBAr

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Posted January 21 2004 - 04:09 PM

do I essentially need a cab amp and driver?

#32 of 73 OFFLINE   Rory Buszka

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Posted January 21 2004 - 04:15 PM

You need to be able to build a cabinet. You need a table saw or circular saw to cut panels and pieces, a jigsaw (at the least) to cut driver and amplifier holes, and a power drill for drilling pilot holes for screws and for your jigsaw blade when cutting holes, and countersinking and driving screws. You need 3/4" MDF (generally sold by most big home improvement chains in 4'x8' sheets) and wood screws and wood glue and a driver mounting kit that uses T-nuts for mounting the driver. The driver, the amplifier, the flared-end port kits, the driver mounting kits, and the speaker wire can all be found at Parts Express. Being so young, I recommend that you have adult supervsion.
"It sounds like it's barfing out the bass." - Zach

#33 of 73 OFFLINE   MichaelBAr

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Posted January 21 2004 - 04:26 PM

Unless I go with used parts, is parts express the best cheap 12" drivers (Series II or Quatro and maybe shielded dvc)? The MCM sells Jensen and Pioneer drivers, are they good.

#34 of 73 OFFLINE   Rory Buszka

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Posted January 22 2004 - 12:36 AM

Jensen and Pioneer, by today's standards, are not good for subwoofers.
"It sounds like it's barfing out the bass." - Zach

#35 of 73 OFFLINE   Joe Ku

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Posted January 22 2004 - 12:42 AM

I have another option for you that you might like First buy these from Parts Express 295-490 DAYTON 12" SHIELDED DVC SUBWOOFER ($38.75) 260-220 CROSSOVER SUBWOOFER /8 OHM ($32.90) build a box with 3.25cuft internal space plus the volume for the port and bracing. It will probably come to around 3.5cuft internal with port and bracing added in, maby a little bigger. I can help you if you want to persue this. Then you will need to tune the port to 29hz, this will produce an F3 of 30hz for the system. This setup will produce amazing amounts of bass above 30hz for the money. It will not shake the foundation but is capable of THX reference levels (at 1 meter anyway). The nice part about this setup is that you don't need an amp, or more to the point your reciever will be powering the sub. Your amp will see an 8ohm load on each channel from the sub so you don't have to worry about damaging your reciever. You will connect the reciever to the sub cross then to your main speakers. The cross will make the sub play all the bass and everything else gets passed on to your mains. This setup should run right around the $100 mark to build, well below your budget.

#36 of 73 OFFLINE   Joe Ku

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Posted January 22 2004 - 01:13 AM

If you do go with the quatro line of drivers I would still recommend the 15" if you can deal with the box size and the marginal cost increase, it would be well worth the extra $10. The 12" is actually louder than the 15" (optimal ported enclosures*) by about 1db above 40hz but the 15" extends quite a bit lower making it much better for HT use. The 15" has an F3 of 20.5hz while the 12" has an F3 of 32hz. *(optimal for the 15" is 7cuft, I recommend 5.5 due to daytons recomendation and prohibitive box size, at 5.5cuft F3 is still 23hz) FWIW I notice the difference between my sub at home (F3 around 19hz) and subs that don't extend as low in HT situations. For music 30hz F3 is just fine (F3 is the point which output has decreased by 3db, and will continue to decrease quickly)

#37 of 73 OFFLINE   MichaelBAr

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Posted January 22 2004 - 02:14 PM

Is the Dayton Shielded DVC Sub good? I'm thinking of getting that one, but is there a noticable difference between that one and the more expensive ones. Is that the best for my money.

#38 of 73 OFFLINE   MichaelBAr

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Posted January 22 2004 - 02:20 PM

Dayton
http://www.partsexpr....D=166915&DID=7

MCM
http://mcm.newark.co....jsp?id=55-2330

(Admin note - merged into this other thread, Michael wanted to know which of the 2 drivers above would be preferable in a subwoofer project)

#39 of 73 OFFLINE   Patrick Sun

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Posted January 22 2004 - 02:31 PM

Michael, let's try not starting so many threads for your sub project. Thanks.
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#40 of 73 OFFLINE   Rory Buszka

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Posted January 22 2004 - 02:47 PM

The MCM 55-2330 drivers will give you a good deal of performance and last you until you're old enough to buy a better driver. They have foam surrounds, which dry-rot and tear and start getting holes in them after about 10 years, but you should by that time have enogh knowledge and experience to tackle a major sub project.
"It sounds like it's barfing out the bass." - Zach




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