Jump to content



Sign up for a free account to remove the pop-up ads

Signing up for an account is fast and free. As a member you can join in the conversation, enter contests and remove the pop-up ads that guests get. Click here to create your free account.


Photo
- - - - -

Rubber ring too big for Cutouts- Options?


  • You cannot start a new topic
  • Please log in to reply
9 replies to this topic

#1 of 10 OFFLINE   Garret_O

Garret_O

    Agent



  • 26 posts
  • Join Date: Sep 11 2002

Posted January 11 2004 - 01:41 PM

Hello all, It has been a LOONNGG time since I posted. I finally have enough of a break to try to finish my thunder 12.3 cabinet. A little problem popped up. I cut the drive openings to the specs in the design I recieved from Stryke, but the PR and Subwoofers will not fit in the holes with the rubber rings in place, these things are waay to tight. Another 1/16 th would've been perfect but the holes are already drilled. I'm guessing that the rubber ring on previous runs of these drivers were lower profile and allowed for a snug fit. As it is, I can only mount these without any rubber on. Unfortunatly, this is less than ideal for looks. ANyone have any ideas? I have not veneered the box yet but I plan on doing that shortly (This week!). I need millimeters here. I could try to sand down the rings but that would be silly, I'm also thinking about sanding the holes bigger but I couldn't guarantee a even ring. I could create a template for my router 1/16th wider and then use the template router bit but that seems like a gamble as well. Lastly, I was thinking of painting the metal outside of the surrounds with some black enamel.

#2 of 10 OFFLINE   Eric Eash

Eric Eash

    Second Unit



  • 367 posts
  • Join Date: Aug 03 2003

Posted January 11 2004 - 03:08 PM

a few thoughts come to mind. one would be to take the rubber gaskets off and put them in the freezer overnight, then see if it'll fit. or do like i did, cover up your routing with the veneer, just take a router and extreme patience and take a little off, trying to keep it as round as possible, and then cut your veneer perfect. if it's a tight enough fit, you won't be able to tell if your routing job wasn't perfect. last thought, i know the gasket on my av15s is a tad loose. you could take the gasket off, and cut a 16th or an 8th off and then try to fit it. also, use a screwdriver to push in the bottom lip as that can get hung up very easily. the rubber should compress a little, get a friend to help squeeze it in there. eric
"Everybody thinks they have a sense of humor, even if they don't." -favorite movie quote!

Can your sub hit 120db @ 10Hz?...Just wondering.
My DIY Sub for sale
My DVDs

#3 of 10 OFFLINE   Mark Hayenga

Mark Hayenga

    Supporting Actor



  • 608 posts
  • Join Date: Jun 11 1999

Posted January 11 2004 - 03:44 PM

Do you have a plunge router? If so, I might:

1) Cut a circle that roughly matches the diameter of the existing hole. You'll only need a section of this circle.

2) Take the cirle and cut it so you have a about a 6x6 piece that contains part of the arc of the circle. Make the piece big enough to mount to your router.

3) Affix it to the base of the router so that the bit, when plunged, cuts through the arc of the circle cut but protrudes 1/16" beyond it.

4) The arc of the wood will ride up against the inside of the existing hole, while the bit protruding 1/16" beyond the arc of the wood will widen the existing hole.

Basically it'd be like making an edge guide, but for a curved edge. Don't know how well it would work, it just popped into my head thinking about the problem. I'm so lazy I always just sanded away when this happened to me Posted Image
"There are 10 types of people in the world: those that understand binary, and those that have friends."

#4 of 10 OFFLINE   TimForman

TimForman

    Supporting Actor



  • 847 posts
  • Join Date: Dec 04 2002

Posted January 12 2004 - 12:48 AM

So how do we avoid this problem in the future when mounting a driver we haven't worked with before? Do we calculate the diameter by measuring the circumference? That 1/16" is a pain to sand and ruins the look.

#5 of 10 OFFLINE   ThomasW

ThomasW

    Screenwriter



  • 2,282 posts
  • Join Date: Nov 06 1999

Posted January 12 2004 - 03:14 AM

I just throw those stupid hard rubber gaskets away. They always vary in size, and make getting a good airtight seal around the driver problematic

#6 of 10 OFFLINE   Mattak

Mattak

    Stunt Coordinator



  • 247 posts
  • Join Date: Dec 15 2003

Posted January 12 2004 - 06:05 AM

Anyone have a picture of these rubber rings? I'm having a hard time visualizing.

#7 of 10 OFFLINE   Garret_O

Garret_O

    Agent



  • 26 posts
  • Join Date: Sep 11 2002

Posted January 12 2004 - 07:48 AM

I suppose I should've taken a diameter measurement of the driver with the rubber gasket on and then rounded up to the nearest 16th. That would've given me the best appromimation most likely. As it is, I think I am going to do what ThomasW has suggested and move forward without the rings. I usually seal the driver opening with rope caulk anyway and I'm sure the rubber gasket would mess that up. I've decided to move forward with creating some grills for the sub drivers. I purchased some small neo magnets last night and will use some particle board or mdf for the grill frame - I'll try particle board first- lighter weight. I searched the forum and like the idea of mounting the neo magnets and then veneering over them- sounds slick to me. Any quick tips RE:Neo magnets would be cool! Thanks for the ideas all.

#8 of 10 Guest_Anthony_Gomez_*

Guest_Anthony_Gomez_*
  • Join Date: --

Posted January 12 2004 - 07:58 AM

another option is to re-route the hole. glue a board in the insideof the box that spans tha hole...like a 1x2 (enough glue to hold firmly, but little enought that a firm strike of a hammer will free it). Then replace (glue) the cutout circle (from the original routing) over the board and make sure it is CENTERED! now, you can re-route the recess. once you are done, hit tie center replacement with a hammer firmly and pop the sucker out! I did this with a speaker before and it worked perfectly. Hope you can envision what I am talking about.

#9 of 10 OFFLINE   Eric Eash

Eric Eash

    Second Unit



  • 367 posts
  • Join Date: Aug 03 2003

Posted January 12 2004 - 01:20 PM

i can tell you that NEO magnets are the way to go. if you've done some searching, then you've probably read my posts about it. mine has turned out great, the only problem i ran into was what size magnets. first, i had 8 pairs of 3/8" x 3/16" discs from partsexpress. my 48" x 24" grill weighs close to 3 lbs, so that coupled with my 3/16" veneer, and it wouldn't hold. then i bought 2 pairs of 1/2" x 1/2" and put them in there. it would hold it up but would sag a little. so then i bought 4 pairs of 1" x 1/2" magnets which have hurt me many times they are so strong. no problems now. just watch your fingers! about the rubber rings, if you do decide to take them off, let us know what you are going to do to make them more cosmetic, one look at my AV15s without the rubber gaskets made me cringe. good luck. eric
"Everybody thinks they have a sense of humor, even if they don't." -favorite movie quote!

Can your sub hit 120db @ 10Hz?...Just wondering.
My DIY Sub for sale
My DVDs

#10 of 10 OFFLINE   Garret_O

Garret_O

    Agent



  • 26 posts
  • Join Date: Sep 11 2002

Posted January 13 2004 - 04:40 AM

Well, I may have gotten some magnets that are too small. What I was thinking is that I would take 3/4 inch particle board and make a couple of ring/round grill covers 1/2"-3/4" wide - rounded on both sides. I was also thinking about lining up about 8 of the small magnet pairs per grill. Would that not be enough to hold? Nice even distribution and a sweet looking round grill. As far as the visible metal basket goes. I may just paint it with some black krylon or modelers enamel - outside only - that way it won't shine through the grill fabric.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users