Progressive vs. Interlaced - why diff Avia results?? - ISF later this month! (1 Viewer)

Hi,

I am getting my RPTV ISF'ed this month by Gregg and I have a couple questions.

#1) I have a Sony DVP-NS755V DVD player. I have it connected via monster component cables and have compared calibrating my TV with the Avia disk using both the INTERLACED and PROGRESSIVE settings on the DVD player. Here is what I have noticed:

With progressive, I have to turn the BRIGHTNESS and PICTURE controls up to the almost halfway mark to get the desired results.

With interlaced, proper black level and white level is at about 25-30%.

However, with Progressive, the colors are much more vibrant and saturated and there seems to be more dynamic range.

So here is the dilemma: Do I have him calibrate the set with the DVD set in progressive or interlaced? The only reason I ask is because I also have an Xbox and S-VHS sources. I am thinking that if I have him calibrate the set with DVD set in progressive mode, my other sources may not be as rich and vibrant. (with my TV, Sony 61-HS20, you can not calibrate grayscale by input...correct me if I am wrong, but I think greyscale is global for all inputs)

What you guys think?

Greetings

Have the TV calibrated to the best signal source you have ... namely DVD 480p.

Use that as your base as he will set it up as the reset position.

Then when using other sources ... change them to your hearts delight and then hit reset and bang ... back to optimal DVD.

Regards

One thing that might be causing this:
Many DVD players default to using 7.5 IRE as the lowest black for interlaced and 0 IRE as the lowest for progressive. Some have controls to let you change interlaced to 0 IRE (sometimes called DARKER in the setup menu), but most of the time progressive is locked to 0 IRE regardless. Some players don't let you select the black output for interlaced and are hard-locked at 7.5 IRE (which is the same level broadcast television uses).

That being said, this should really only mean that you might have to bump brightness up for other sources. Some sets let you save different user settings for each input, which would be helpful in your case.

In short, Michael's correct -- let him calibrate in progressive to get the baseline calibrated settings, then if your set allows for differing user adjustments between inputs (or has presets you can save like the Hitachi sets) you can simply bump up the brightness control a notch or two to compensate if you feel the need. On my set, I didn't have to make any adjustment to my Xbox and cable settings after having my set calibrated by Gregg, so hopefully you'll have the same luck. Gregg will likely be able to address any concerns you have at the time of the calibration.