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xovers for diy drivers in car


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4 replies to this topic

#1 of 5 OFFLINE   AlexKunec

AlexKunec

    Stunt Coordinator



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  • Join Date: Mar 09 2002

Posted May 03 2003 - 03:02 PM

im thinking about making a decent stereo in my car using peerless and possibly tangband drivers.

For the crossovers, can i just buy some premade 3rd order xovers from partsexpress?? Im not educated enough to make a proffessional crossover so i was wondering if buying these premade ones will still sound good? How would they compare to commercial products like pheonix gold and so on??
2 Adire Tempest Drivers $300
24" Sonotube $30
1000w crown power amp $400
---------------------------------
Putting it all together and hearing it for thefirst time PRICELESS

#2 of 5 OFFLINE   Mark gas

Mark gas

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Posted May 03 2003 - 07:51 PM

tangband drivers would not be ideal for car audio. I would use some peerless or vifa drivers and I would run them active.

#3 of 5 OFFLINE   AlexKunec

AlexKunec

    Stunt Coordinator



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  • Join Date: Mar 09 2002

Posted May 04 2003 - 06:40 AM

So u think i should build an active crossover for them??

Or will the amp likely have some builtin crossovers??

Also why wouldnt tangband drivers work that good??
2 Adire Tempest Drivers $300
24" Sonotube $30
1000w crown power amp $400
---------------------------------
Putting it all together and hearing it for thefirst time PRICELESS

#4 of 5 OFFLINE   Mark gas

Mark gas

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  • Join Date: Mar 23 2002

Posted May 04 2003 - 07:22 PM

Lots of companies make 3 way active xovers for cars just check ebay. I bought a audiobhan aex 3100 which is a line driver, 31 band a side eq, and a 3way xover all in 1 for $100. Tangbands would not be good in a car because of there low power handling and low sensitivity.

#5 of 5 OFFLINE   John E Janowitz

John E Janowitz

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Posted May 04 2003 - 08:07 PM

I've done a few setups in vehicles. Still waiting for someone to have enough money to pay me to really do one properly. What I did in mine was select my drivers, mount them in their positions, then put the measurement mic at the listening position. I read in response and impedance curves from all the drivers. Then take this over to LspCAD and design up an Xover. Basically I do the same that I would do in designing a speaker for a home theater application. The difference is that all the curves I read in are the IN CAR curves, and I can account for just about anything that happens due to reflections or cabin gain.

If you have any Xover design software, you could read in response curves using an SPL meter and our test CD, or build Eric Wallin's testing jig. That would get you a pretty good starting point.

John