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diy acoustic panels


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10 replies to this topic

#1 of 11 OFFLINE   JakeMcM

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Posted March 14 2003 - 09:39 AM

has anyone had any sucess making acoustic panels mainly absorbers or maybe diffusors? What materials did you guys use? What would you recomend? How thick do absorbers need to be? Oh and I am wondering if I still need absorbers on the side walls, the side walls are bare at the moment but the entire room is carpeted and there is a pretty puffy fabric coach and chair. I am at risk of deadening the room too much if I put absorbers on the back and side walls, maybe even the front wall.

#2 of 11 OFFLINE   Dave Koch

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Posted March 14 2003 - 09:59 AM

If I may be permitted to butt-in here, I am curious about this as well. But I would also like some background... such as when/why would you use an absorber, and when/why would you use a defusor?

Thanks!
dave
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#3 of 11 OFFLINE   Chu Gai

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Posted March 14 2003 - 10:27 AM

On this website take a look here
Also over at Mike Knapp's site, hometheatertalk.com I recall some posts a while back. Run a search on the term 'panel' and see what turns up. Some of the links have (had) pictures which made it pretty informative.

#4 of 11 OFFLINE   Brian OK

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Posted March 14 2003 - 12:40 PM

I recommend you start here for DIY acoustical treatment
www.geocities.com/jonrisch/a1.htm

IMO, and by reading pretty much all the "other" DIY recipes for 4 years found on the net, you cannot do/find any better than Risch's DIY's.

I have bass traps, side-wall first reflection panels, front wall panels, and corner tunes a la Risch. I also followed his advise about how to "fix-up" diffusor to make them abfussors as well (both absorb and diffuse).

Also, go to www.audioasylum.com and use their search function in the "tweaks forum" for a more detailed education about all the questions you need answered. There is a wealth of info there about DIY acoustical treatment.

Good Luck,

BOK
BOK

#5 of 11 OFFLINE   Dave Pobuda

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Posted March 14 2003 - 01:02 PM

I can't recall the link where i found this recipe but it works great.
Using furring strips I made a 24"x40" frame then glued and nailed luane board to the back. Then glued 1/2" soundboard to that. Ordered some acoustic foam (eggcrate type) and glued that to the soundboard. I've ordered fabric from Gilford of Maine that I plan on stapling over top of everything to help out with the WAP. I've made a total of 4 of these panels and have them placed in the front corner to absorb the nearwall reflections from the mains. Has really cleaned up the sound. Wish I could remember the link and who to give credit too.

Posted Image Dave

#6 of 11 OFFLINE   Chu Gai

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Posted March 14 2003 - 01:52 PM

Only thing I wish Risch had Brian were some construction pictures.

#7 of 11 OFFLINE   Brian OK

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Posted March 15 2003 - 03:44 AM

Chu,

by performing the search in tweaks, you will find pics from more than a few users of Risch's DIY stuff. Yeah, would be nice if he could provide some easy links off of his recipe pages.

It does involves some digging, but the pics you find lend credence to the cliche..... a pic is worth a thousand words...
I will see if I can dig some up and link them from this thread.
BOK

#8 of 11 OFFLINE   Chris Tsutsui

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Posted March 28 2003 - 07:14 AM

My DIY Link in case you havn't been. To be honest, I like how these traps were assembled, mine seem more ghetto with the nails and wire but it works just the same. :b

I bought the materials and made the plans to make some diffusor panels. I'll do the same type of page for them once I begin the build. They will be similar to Skyline type diffusors and Art Diffusor panels Model C. I am going to make a mold that'll be approx 1.5ft x 1.5ft. Then use 1/8" thick styrene vacuum forming to pump out a bunch of them. To make them more solid I plan to use expanding foam on the inside of the molds. These panels are going to be pro, but I don't think everyone has a vaccuum former. I wonder if I should use a conventional oven and shop vac so others can make them as well?

The site was made rather hastly and I havn't updated it in a long time because I am almost out of room on the free server. I used to have 50 free megs but now I only have 25. Posted Image


#9 of 11 OFFLINE   Chu Gai

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Posted March 28 2003 - 08:02 AM

Chris, consider using some of those shareware or free programs that'll take your images and shrink em a bit.

#10 of 11 OFFLINE   Brian OK

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Posted March 28 2003 - 01:36 PM

Chris,

Good work, indeed. On your wall panels, I used the insulation (2-6" batts of fiberglass) in between 2"x 4" (1" width) wide wood (soft wood) fir strips, spaced so that a bead of caulk would hold the first layer of insulation (paper backed, mind you) in place against, and in between a 2" fir strip every 15", depending on the length of the panel. The second layer of non-paper backed 6" batt was just compressed into place on top of the first paper backed panel. Once you have the paper backed layer in place, and then lay the top (front side facing the speaker) 6" of unfaced fiberglass you have your sandwich.

Then, you staple 2 layers of 1" poly batting over the back (stapling very taut)of the frame, and then very taut over the front of the frame, stapling taut again. I cut pieces of batting (4" thick, or so) to cover the bare exposed wood of the fir strips and stapled those over the strips.

The concept is intuitive once you get the point of the exercise. Batts in place, caulk to hold the batts, poly batting, compress tight with the poly via staples. I must stress the taut stapling of the fiberglass once you staple the batting. You are compressing 12" of fiberglass into 6" of width, which is your finished panel width.
Finish it all with your choice of colored jute. This can be scalloped by long brass tacks into the middle sections/spines to create "hollows", or scallops, so that the panel looks fashionable ;>)
I did not use peg board at all, and I guess that is where I vary from you. My panel thickness is much greater too, as the point is to increase the linear absorption of the panels. Wall panels can work both ways (first sound wave passes through panel,is diminished, and once it comes off the wall surface, it is again absorbed passing through the panel again). The SECRET, according to Risch, is to space your wall panel AT LEAST 2" FROM THE WALL. Four inches is recommended by Risch. This is the only way you can achieve the second wall absorption, which is the key to killing wall reflection.
My panels are spaced 4" off the wall. And I have two panels in place--- one is 64" long and 4' high, and the other is 4'x 56" high. It is a plus to be able to custom build your own wall treatments, IMO. I use a simple metal hook and clip, and a wood peg against the wall and the frame. I force the panel out with the wood peg, and the hook/clip keeps it in place and very sturdy, I may add. I have 3 kids and their company, so the sturdiness was the goal.
my .02

Thanks for sharing you projects.
Cheers,
BOK
BOK

#11 of 11 OFFLINE   AcousticsFREQ

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Posted November 14 2011 - 05:11 PM

Hey Jake, I realise that this response is a little bit late (only 9 years or so).. but I have put together a cheap, easy DIY sound absorber panel tutorial here: http://acousticsfreq.com/blog/?p=62 Take a look and let me know if you have any questions. Take care, -Eric