Which CD-R do you use...mine skip after a while (1 Viewer)

[Shawn.G]

I use the Memorex 700mb, 80min CD-Rs. After I burn a cd, it will start to skip after a week or so, even if it has no scratches. I would like to know which cd-r is the best quality. I burn mp3s, and I make sure they are 128 or better. Even after I burn the cd with mp3s it will sound fine. But after a week it starts to skip, and there are no scratches on the cd. Please help. Thank you.

 

[NickSo]

Check out CDfreaks.com in the articles section they have links to the best CDR-media brands. Check that out.

 

[Scott L]

Yea my Memorex's bought at Best Buy don't really last that long compared to others I've had. I've recently been using TDK's and they seem pretty reliable.

 

[David Williams]

I use nothing but Verbatim DataLife Plus. They use a metal Azo Blue dye layer (it looks Peacock Blue), instead of an organic dye layer that 95% of the other use. The only problem I've had is finding it at retail. None of the stores (BB, CompUSA, etc) in my area stock them, so I order them online.

Hope this helps!

 

[David Susilo]

So far I've used more than 10,000 pieces of Princo. The first disc I used 2 years ago and put in the car still works like a charm

 

[Andrej Dolenc]

I've had great luck with Fuji CD's. Best Buy puts 'em on sale every now and then so they can be had for dirt cheap.

Andrej

 

[Steven K]

Taiyo Yuden Pthatocyanine discs will last for many, many years - they are tough to find though.

 

[Carl Miller]

I use Fuji most of the time at the recommendation of active Grateful Dead and DMB traders...Taiyo Yuden when I can find them at the right price.

I've had great luck with Fuji CD's. Best Buy puts 'em on sale every now and then so they can be had for dirt cheap.

Just bought a spindle of 30 for $1.99 after rebates from Office Max. Don't know if that sale is still on but mentioning it just in case.

 

[GrahamJW]

Most brands I have tried so far have worked great. I have one CD-R (I believe it is a Memorex) that I have been using for a couple of years with a music mix that has not given me any problems.

I know there are some CD-R marked specifically for music (they are a bit more). You may want to try one of those. They are made for the desktop CD recorders as some of those units will not record reliably to a CD-R for data.

Cheers..John

 

[Christian Behrens]

No point in buying these audio CD-Rs when you use them with a computer. They just cost more, but don't give you any quality advantage.

-Christian

 

[David Susilo]

Those DVDs are coded with license so consumer standalone CD recorder can record onto them. No special quality whatsoever.

 

[Steven K]

I know there are some CD-R marked specifically for music (they are a bit more). You may want to try one of those. They are made for the desktop CD recorders as some of those units will not record reliably to a CD-R for data

This is not really true - the reason that audio CDs cost more than regular data CD-Rs, is that a good portion of the cost of audio CD-Rs goes to royalties that are paid to the music industry. The only fundamental difference between an audio CD-R and a data CD-R is that the audio CD-Rs have an extra "on" bit set. If this bit does not exist or is not set, the audio recorders will recognize that the disc is not an audio CD-R (and hence, no royalty was paid) and will not record to the disc.

 

[Bob Graz]

I've had problems with Memorex, I don't buy them. I use standard Verbatim's and I'm happy with them.

 

[Ken Seeber]

Let me put in another recommendation for Fuji. All of the Fujis marked Made in Japan are manufactured by Taiyo Yuden, which is one of the best CD-R makers out there.

I never pay more that $4.99 for a spindle of 50 Fujis at Best Buy because they have them on sale about once a month.

 

[Shawn.G]

Wow, thank you everyone for your help. The Memorex were really making me angry. I will look for fuji cd-rs on sale from now on.
I have a question about the music cd-r. Will they work on the Xbox which doesn't read burned cds? Thank you.

 

[Brian Ruth]

Shawn:

I'd recommend the TDKs (ESPECIALLY the certified plus CDs). They're expensive, and perhaps hard to find, but they do a great job. They also have the blue dye layer everyone seems to be talking about.

As for your music CD-R: my guess is it wont play in your XBox without tweaking of such a nature that it is likely prohibited from discussion in this forum. Don't have an XBox, though, so I dont know for sure.

 

[Steven K]

All of the Fujis marked Made in Japan are manufactured by Taiyo Yuden, which is one of the best CD-R makers out there.

I knew this was the case for DVD-Rs, but wasn't aware that it was the case for CD-Rs either. I believe that the media that is made in Taiwan is manufactured by CMC, so be careful NOT to pick up these discs up.

 

[GrahamJW]

Steven:

Thanks for the information. I have a friend with a desktop CD-R in his HT setup, and we tried some of my CD-Rs (for data and music) and the recorder wouldn't record. The friend went out and bought some of the "music only" CD-Rs and they worked. He did pay more for them; I thought they were better quality optimized for music. Should have known that there was some greedy monetary gain in the music industries' part.

cheers..John

 

[Ken Seeber]

He did pay more for them; I thought they were better quality optimized for music.

No, there's no difference in quality between music and data CD-Rs. The only difference is that music CR-Rs are encoded so they will work in a stand-alond recorder and therefore carry a licensing fee that goes to the RIAA. That's the only reason they are more expensive.

 

[Kevin P]

I've had good luck with the Sony discs. I tend to avoid Memorex because I always hear bad things about them. I've gone through a couple of Verbatim spindles and they work well except for a couple discs which skipped in my picky car changer.