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The Right SVS Sub for Me? (1 Viewer)

Matt Stone

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I was wondering what your guys' thoughts would be. I'm planning on buying a new sub in the next month or so, and have already decided to go SVS. It's hard to know which route to take though, with multiple lines of powered and passive subs. Is there a performance benefit of going passive with a separate amp, or should I stick with something integrated? Here's my current setup:

Sony DA3ES Receiver
Axiom M50 Fronts
Axiom VP150 Center
Axiom M3 Rears
Engergy e:XL S8 Sub (8")

I was planning on going with a 39" SVS, since it's mid-range. The current room it's going in will be about 15x20, but that won't be it's final resting place.

Any thoughts? Or other threads that have discussed a similar situation?
 

kurt_fire

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Because I'm still using an Onkyo subwoofer I got with my initial HTiB. I was just curious if you are looking to sell it; and if so, for how much?
 

Matt Stone

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I don't want to top $1000, but the lower the better. At this stage (information gathering), I'm looking for a broad range of possibilities.

Kurt,
I would consider selling it. I'm not sure how much it's worth though.
 

MikeNg

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I orignially thought that getting a passive sub and using my own amp would be the best route, and it was great. But the cylinder subs are pretty efficient and don't take much to get good sound out of them. Either way (passive or active) I think you'll be fine. If you already have a power amp to use, then I'd lean toward the passive. If you want to minimize the # of components then I'd lean towards the active.

I've also changed rooms for my HT, and ended up selling my cylinder because of placement issues encountered with a cylinder. Think long term and decide which form factor is best for you (cylinder v. box).

If I had to do it again, I'd look really close at the PB10. I think it has the best bang/buck. Maybe consider getting one PB10 and see how it performs. Reviews say that the thing digs below 20Hz in-room, so range should not be an issue. It might not play as loud as you want in your final room. If it's not enough volume for you, you still have 5 bills to play with and possibly get a second. This also gives you a little more flexibility in placement since it's smaller than the dual-12" offerings and shorter than the cylinders.

If you have room for a big box, look at the PB12-ISD/2.

I'd also drop a note to the nice folks at SVS for their opinion.

PS, IMO an SVS doesn't truly show it's potential until an EQ has been applied. Consider setting $150 aside for a parametric EQ.

Mike
 

JessyMcK

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i just plugged in my 25-31PC+ and all I can say is, WOW. $805 shipped. now i need to figure out how to calibrate it.
 

Matt Stone

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Performance-wise, what's the major difference between the box and cylinder design.
 

BrianWoerndle

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Nothing. They can both perform the same. But at the same performance level, the cylinder will be cheaper.

If you get a CS and the Samson amp combo, it is very easy and cheap to upgrade to duel subs down the road. I have duel 16-46CS+s, and they run flat down to 13hz at reference levels. Truly amazing.
 

Matt Stone

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Matt Stone
I was thinking separates would be better for possible upgrades in the future, so that sounds like a decent plan.
 

Matt Stone

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Okay, so the 16-46CS+ with the 1000 watt Samson amp? Is that a decent spot to max performance at around $1000?
 

MikeNg

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If you don't ever plan to run dual subs or 2-channel with the amp, you could put that $ into a good monoblock or bridgeable amp.

I always feel I'm 'wasting' money by not using both channels...
 

Matt Stone

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I do want to keep the option for 2 subs open. And, isn't that Samson amp bridgeable anyway.
 

Matt Stone

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-From the SVS Website listing of the Samson amp...
Rugged stereo and mono-bridgeable power amplifier
Produces 500 watts per channel into 4 ohms (stereo or "parallel" mode) and 1000 watts into 8 ohms (bridged mono mode)

Linear frequency response for exceptional audio performance
Ultra-quiet, dual temperature-sensitive, speed-controlled fans
Stable bipolar design
Front panel input level controls with 42 detents
3-segment output LED metering
Dual protection LEDs and relay-controlled outputs linked to protection LEDs
Banana jack outputs with Speakon (tm) connectors
XLR and locking TRS 1/4" inputs (RCA to 1/4" Pro-Grade Us Made interconnect included with all Samson amp/sub combos!)
Unique "parallel" input mode allows mono bass signal connection to run both channels for seamless dual sub setups!
Dimensions (with rack fittings removed) 17 1/4" Wide, 16" Deep, 3 1/2" High (Note: Dimensions on Samson materials are incorrect)
Three year warranty.
Power note: Standard 110v/60Hz AC (220V./50Hz AC version upon request)
 

BrianWoerndle

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The Samson is bridgable, but not reccommended for SVS subs. When bridged, the Samson must be used with 8 ohm speakers, and all SVS subs are 4 ohm.
 

Matt Stone

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Okay, I see. So the bridging feature doesn't work at all with SVS subs? If that's the case, it seems like some poor marketing tactics.

In any event, that changes things. Would I get a better value with the 16-46PC+ (w/the 525 watt Bash amp built in)? Getting the external Samson amp would be great for future upgrades...but will it drive the sub as well as the built-in Bash amp. To put it better, is it worth the extra $150 for the external amp (not considering upgrading in the future)?
 

BrianWoerndle

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Both will perform the same. I doubt that you could tell any difference between the Samson and Bash amp (technically, the CS+s have slightly larger internal volume, so they should play a fraction lower, but you would never know, it is all sub-sonic anyway). So, if you don't plan to upgrade, then the PC+ is fine. But, if you do plan on upgrading, the duel 16-46CS+/Samson combo is $1625, vs 2 16-46PC+ at $1750.

I am not advocating one over the other just because I have duel 16-46CS+s. Because the PC+s also have phase adjustments and auto on/off that the Samson does not have. You had asked about the difference, and I am just trying to make sure you know the options.
 

Matt Stone

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Thanks for the help. It sounds like I can pay $150 now in case I upgrade in the future, or pay $125 then. With the info that I've gathered so far, I think I'm leaning toward the PC+
 

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