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My home cinema (1 Viewer)

Dr Griffin

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FoxyMulder said:
Just yesterday i fitted a new projector screen onto the wall, straight onto the wall, no casing, about time too, i should have had it done and finished a month ago, it means i can mask area's off for 2.35:1 and 4/3 films, unfortunately i had to order new speaker cable so cannot watch a film on it until probably the middle to end of next week, i mention this because i ruined a screen with casing a few months back because it had brick behind the wall and i was expecting plasterboard. :D

My birthday tomorrow too and i was looking forward to watching a film, oh well, next week will come fast.
Happy Birthday Malcolm! I will be a screen and projector newbie in about a year or two. I'm Building a screen wall with speaker wall baffle behind, so a lot of work ahead before I ask advice on screen installation. :)
 

Dr Griffin

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andySu said:
You can also buy rack bars and make a rack frame with timber and wood need to measure twice and all the gear should fit in.

If you have wall behind as most your homes have plasterboard and stud work you could have area behind the rack where you can get in behind it. I don't have option. Brick walls.
You're right, I have plasterboard on studs over cinderblock walls (basement). I even have access at top of room to get behind drywall, because it's not finished off due to drop ceiling. Will only need to run the 14/2 over the joists about 10 feet, then just drop it down behind wall to the outlet hole. I'd like to do what you've done with the projector behind glass and out of the room, but I'm afraid the throw distance will be too far to do it (it would be about 22-23 feet to screen). I guess it will depend on the projector, if that will be possible or not.
 

andySu

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New pc installed for the SONY SDDS. Oh what a cats dinner to set this back up after a few weeks absence due to odd fault with the other pc.

Its taken 8.5 hour working around the clock almost to get the software program to reinstall smoothly and then figure out other snags and chatting with chap who has his own cinema speaker sound system business if he has encounter snags like I been getting.

Got buy a new remote wireless keyboard/mouse as its all mostly USB. I have to switch the dongle remote/wireless USB from pc to pc for past 8.5 hours. Tolerance level to doing this has been exhausting day.


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Remote software back up and running.

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Sooty, hears the SONY SDDS wide-band pink noise and listens!
 

andySu

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Evidently your cat isn't a sub bass cat. Mine as a kitten used to crawl though the port. :lol: A true JBL sub bass kitty cat. If the whiskas fit the head and body will fit. How he did I don't know.

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Often I had to remove the sub bass driver and get him out. Rarely he would come crawling out when I say a few words that he likes and slivers out the ports.

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I had to block a port to prevent him crawling inside.

Today he knows he can't get inside.
 

andySu

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Picked up the mail from post office as missed it yesterday and while walking back home checking street level SPL db (C weighting slow) responded fairly accurately to sound frequencies.
Range is from 30 to 130db (its 20db lower then my previous SPL db metre analogue that only goes down to 50db).

It has Slow and Fast response / A/C weighting / 32 to 10.000Khz / a hold button freezes the measurement. A tripod threaded screw for mounting. Level indicator graph bar updates between 0.2secs to 0.5secs. RCA phone plug for connecting to outboard measurement equipment such as an RTA real time analyzer, that can check the frequency. 9volt battery. Carrying case. Omnidirectional microphone.


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andySu

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JBL

9 screen channel array

Left Upper channel (THX crossover)2-way Bass mid HF horn

Left Middle channel (THX crossover)2-way Bass mid HF horn

Left Lower channel (THX crossover)2-way Bass mid HF horn

(each with sub)___________________
Centre Upper channel (THX crossover)2-way Bass mid HF horn

Centre Middle channel (THX crossover)2-way Bass mid HF horn

Centre Lower channel (THX crossover)2-way Bass mid HF horn

(each with sub)


The below stage channels will be turned upside down so the HF horn is nearer to the floor and tilted back a bit so the highs are slightly shifted upwards but not fully as any discrete below stage channel effects or dialogue panning music depending on mix, will give ques below so if Agent Fox Mulder is weeing next to an ID4 poster in The X-Files Fight The Future (1998) the sound should be heard below rather than 6 feet up in air in the centre middle channel HF horn. Gravity wins and if a sound object falls to the floor it will produce a sound.

Effects that will benefit from this. Rain, autumn leafs on the ground footsteps any F-14 TomCat in TOP GUN will pan underneath and off screen to below surrounds is how it should be until they move upwards to another channel surrounds or overhead or behind at the back wall.

A lot of films mixed over common LCR for decades may have sounded great but most cinema audiences are getting more advanced in listening. Myself? I've cottoned onto it the late 1998.

Right Lower channel (THX crossover)
2-way Bass mid HF horn

Right Middle Lower channel (THX crossover)2-way Bass mid HF horn

Right Lower channel (THX crossover)2-way Bass mid HF horn

(each with sub)

Sub bass LEF.1 set up into arrays to even out frequency for seat to seat smoothness blend into the sub bass extension for the stage channels though to the mid bass range and HF horns.

The arrays of front sub bass stage channel extension will play independent to each channel with EQ.___________________2-way
Left surround upper wall surround arrays

Left surround upper heightLeft surround upper middle wall heightLeft surround upper back wall height

Left surround middle wall surround arrays
Left surround middle frontLeft surround middle wall
Left surround middle back wall

Left surround lower wall surround arrays

Left surround front lower wallLeft surround middle lower wallLeft surround back lower wall

(each with sub) array across the floor and all lows from all channels will be summed up with independent level control with EQ and and master EQ level._____________________2-way

Right surround upper wall surround arrays

Right surround upper heightRight surround upper middle wall heightRight surround upper back wall height

Right surround middle wall surround arrays

Right surround middle frontRight surround middle wallRight surround middle back wall

Right surround lower wall surround arrays

Right surround front lower wallRight surround middle lower wallRight surround back lower wall_______________________________2-way

Back wall surround arrays

Left surround upper heightLeft surround upper middle wall heightLeft surround upper back wall height

Right surround middle frontRight surround middle wallRight surround middle back wall

(each with sub) array across the floor and all lows from all channels will be summed up with independent level control with EQ and and master EQ level.
_____________________________2-way

Centre back wall surround arrays

Centre upper surroundCentre middle surroundCentre below surround
(each with sub) array across the floor and all lows from all channels will be summed up with independent level control with EQ and and master EQ level.____________________2-way

Overhead surrounds

Right overhead frontRight overhead middleRight overhead back

Left overhead front
Left overhead middleLeft overhead back

(each with sub) array across the floor and all lows from all channels will be summed up with independent level control with EQ and and master EQ level.

Centre middle overhead frontCentre middle overhead (middle)Centre middle overhead back
_________________________2-way

Below surrounds
Placement underneath the cinema seats so that the sound reflects off the seat bucket and produces a defused sound field that can be localized over a wide area. Whether sat in right or left seat easy to detect sound from below. Middle row needs no speaker underneath as the sound is easy to hear from ether left/right below surround.

Front row
Left front Row A1 (underneath cinema seat)Right front Row A3 (underneath cinema seat)

(Seat row A2 doesn't need a speaker placed below it unless the row of seats are greater than 4 or 6 where some extra below surrounds will be required).

Back rowLeft front Row B1 (underneath cinema seat)Right front Row B3 (underneath cinema seat)

(Seat row B2 doesn't need a speaker placed below it unless the row of seats are greater than 4 or 6 where some extra below surrounds will be required).
__________________________

Auro Shakers for each seat x6 fitted into the seat buckets. Provides lows with shuddering shimmering shaking vibrating ether the seat bucket, armrests and seat rest back.

Total channels 47?
Total speakers 135 :P where I'm gonna get or how to fit 135 in?
 

Dr Griffin

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And technically, you should bi-amp each speaker for a total of 270 amplifiers. You will need to install your own sub-station. :lol:
 

andySu

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Dr Griffin said:
And technically, you should bi-amp each speaker for a total of 270 amplifiers. You will need to install your own sub-station. :lol:
I'll use solar sub bass station power for free clean greener sub bass. :P
 

andySu

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Dr Griffin said:
:rolling-smiley:

Actually its the amount drawn from the amps that will tick off the credit on the metre. I don't even run my current system at full power what will it serve other than damaging hearing. I can run the system easily with £35.00 for two weeks (electric light, fridge, washing machine, THX cinema.

A cinema ticket at London, will cost a £20.00 to £25.00 for one film, go and figure. I can run the same film all day and that would cost at a cinema at least £80.00 if is crazy enough to watch repeated screenings in one day.

When FLIGHT (2012) was released on region free bluray same day as the Empire Leicester Square, It arrived in the post on same day Friday, 1st February 2013 I watched the take off scene at least 50 times before resuming the film. Why that would cost at Empire around £750.00 go and figure. Home cinema is flexible and better.

Ever wondered why so much power is drawn during tv ads. Millions of kettles, are switched on and each kettle maybe a few kw, go and figure.
 

Dr Griffin

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I've been figuring my upgraded system, slowly over the next two-three years, and I am going to need 10 amplifiers to start. I want 6 monoblocks for the front three (later 5) and stereo amps for each pair of surrounds and ceiling. Initially an 11 or 13.4.2 setup. I need to add at least one more 20 amp outlet. Let me know how you like working with the digital SPL meter, I've been thinking of getting one. I like my analog meter, but heard the digitals are more precise.
 

andySu

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Dr Griffin said:
I've been figuring my upgraded system, slowly over the next two-three years, and I am going to need 10 amplifiers to start. I want 6 monoblocks for the front three (later 5) and stereo amps for each pair of surrounds and ceiling. Initially an 11 or 13.4.2 setup. I need to add at least one more 20 amp outlet. Let me know how you like working with the digital SPL meter, I've been thinking of getting one. I like my analog meter, but heard the digitals are more precise.
I prefer analogue metre but I'll see how I adapt to the digital its early days for final conclusion. But I do like the 30db range and no having to switch range 60/70/80db and so on. Quit in the room its about 34dbA 40dbC. With some audible traffic the noise-floor will decease (yep some traffic pasted by with about 52dbC) A bus double Decker when by Decker? Decker? DECKER! (punch) 55dbC. So I can suss out how to get quieter in the room.The only few weak spots are main large windows I still need to get absorbent marital packed behind the panels and fit them back up and put some extra panels between it that a bit thicker and seal the window seals for any air breeze blowing though or if light can get though so can water. So needs to be tight seal. The other small window that's easy to sort out.

A new living room door I have one on my watch list, for a few years now and when I get around to it I'll buy it and fit that in. It has nice oval-half shaped glass feature, kinder looks like would be seen at cinema.

I'd check the SPL digital meter on the RTA if I can find long enough RCA to phone 3.5mm jack? I don't have so I'll order one now there cheap enough for 5 metre or 8metre ones.
 

andySu

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5m RCA to 3.5mm jack ordered. It will reach the laptop in the kitchen easily without going around corners and bends. I use the hole in the wall, the shortest route.

I guess will be here Fri/Sat.
 

andySu

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RCA phone 3.5mm arrived and looks okay connected to SPL db metre on the RTA while some disco retro John Barry The Deep (1977) is playing.

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NBPk402

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All I can say is... WOW! Your system is very elaborate, and i bet it sounds awesome! I can't even imagine how it would be to have all that Real Theater Processing.
 

andySu

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ellisr63 said:
All I can say is... WOW! Your system is very elaborate, and i bet it sounds awesome! I can't even imagine how it would be to have all that Real Theater Processing.
Its a complicated system.
 

andySu

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Looking at installing IR Emitters soon.

Isolate the players to the kitchen. But need a new rack for main room then move the other racks to the kitchen.
 

andySu

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Brought this IR Remote Extender with 8 Emitters should be suited the players. Should be here in a few weeks.

I'll have remove all the players

Pioneer Laserdisc
Pioneer DVD multi-region
Toshiba HD-DVD
Phillips bluray
Sony bluray

I won't hear the players discs spinning or the fans on some of the HD players that are audible and lowers noise floor. With room silent its about 30dbA to 33dbC.

Well might have buy a fourth 21U frame rack. Reverse the kitchen door around so I can fit the rack next to the other same rack in place.

Got get some cheap RCA leads optical cables for connecting back up to the AVR and some long HDMI cheap leads Only need 3 cheap HDMI cables. oh might fit that goggle HDtv box in the kitchen as well.

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