Inspired by Dean_G and Lemarcus's successful S26 modification I decided to do the same to my S38s. I took apart my JBL S38s and I recorded the crossover into a schematic for easy readying. Each 3-way Crossover uses 5 resistors, 3 capacitors (All bypassed by 0.01k 250v), and 3 inductors. So does this mean that I use a 0.01uf bypass cap as a replacement for the bypass components? Another question is the capacitors are the following numbers: 4uf for tweeter, 24uf for mid, and 60uf for the woofer. Because the 60uf is hard to find in an exact value and they also don't run cheap, I'm thinking of just keeping it in there because I'm pretty happy with the bass. Lemarcus didn't notice a big change in bass anyways, and I believe the biggest gain to be had is in the tweeter and midrange. It costs an additional $26 for the axon true 61uf capacitor, do you think it's worth it? It's $16 for the rest of the caps, and the resistors add up to about $30 or so making this roughly a $50 total upgrade per pair. If I use a Sonicap 4uf cap for the tweeter, that adds about $16 to the upgrade. I don't think it'll be worth it though. I definitely do not want to go more expensive than Sonicaps either. I'm thinking of saving a bit of money and going with Dayton 10W non-inductive resisitors. Do you think they will perform on par with Mills despite the brick look and 2% tolerance? Another thing that's interesting is that the midrange driver appears to be wired out of phase with the tweeter and woofer. Does this make sense to those of you familiar with 3-way designs? I know that the tweeter is commonly put out of phase in 2-way designs, but why is the midrange done in this case? Another question I have is that the drivers are shielded. The 8" woofer has a cancellation magnet glued to the back, while the midrange driver has a large tin can over it. Do you think it would be wise to apply a dampening sheet on the "tin" can shielding the midrange driver to perhaps reduce some vibrations. I noticed that tweeters with tin can shieldings have frequency responses that extend deeper into the frequencies and don't cut off as sharply as speakers without shielding. Is the fast cut off a good thing in a tweeter? or should I keep the can as it is so it resonates which lets the tweeter play deeper. Another thing I'd like to try is that the EOS waveguide is a plastic horn that's rather thin but is braced. Do you think it'll be wise to apply dampening material to the plastic to reduce vibrations? I don't know if the vibrations of these plastic and tin components were taken into consideration in the design and will cause a dip in the response if meddled with. I know that it's likely minimal but I'd like to tweak everything. The wires in the S38 are generic 16awg with female disconnects. I was considering using 16gauge 99.99% copper wire and use direct 4% silver soldering during the rebuild. Any reason not to do this other than extra work? This is my first speaker alteration so any feedback appreciated. Boy the JBL 8" woofer looks very pretty with it's matte aluminum cast frame and bright white cone. Everything has foam gaskets, and the midwoofer is sealed inside a plastic separate enclosure. What if I dampened that plastic enclosure so it doesn't resonate? Anyways, there's a 1/2" thick gray/black fiberglass batting lining the walls of the MDF box. I was suprised to see the A-grade MDF used in the box construction, and the precision of the CNC routering. If anyone's interested in some pics I'll post them, but only if someone requests it because it does take time.