I want some thump for my home theater!! (1 Viewer)

[dmoney74]

Hello media room know it alls your advice is greatly appreciated. I am a little inexperienced with subwoofers and really just the whole audio realm. I have a approx 15' x 15' media room with currently a Definitive Technology Pro Cinema 600 set as recommended by a Magnolia Home theater rep. The sound is nice, not as loud as I'd like but nonetheless nice but the sub it comes with I don't think has quite enough punch that I'm looking for because you can hear the rattlish vibrations when the movie gets to that low pitch. Maybe its too much room for that sub to handle? My budget is less than $1000 and of course lower the better but I do want a sub that will make the walls shake and to be felt in your chest when the explosion happens but also not overpower those other speakers. What do I need to make that happen??? Thanks for the help!!!!
Btw I have a Denon AVR 1712 reciever if that matters...

 

[schan1269]

Anytime I see anybody with the ProCinema 600-800, I tell them the same thing...
Especially on the 600(it is in the owners manual)...run the subwoofer off your FRONT R/L and set your home theater to 5.0.
The satellites seriously lack bass and the sub in the system is designed to be a "mid-bass enhancer", not really a subwoofer(again, read the manual).
So...keep the "mid-bass enhancer" in the system, wire it up as 5.0...
When you add ANOTHER subwoofer(to actually do the real subwoofer duty), then change the settings to 5.1 and rock on.
The same set-up works magic on the 800.
Here is the "best"(best refers to..."start here, tweak to fit your ears") situation...
When you do buy another subwoofer...set the .1 up at 60hz. That way the sub only does 60hz and lower. 60hz then gets ferried into the DefTech "mid-bass enhancer". Set it "somewhere" between 100-150hz(again, "tweaked to your ears") and call it a day.

 

[David Willow]

Originally Posted by schan1269 /t/322150/i-want-some-thump-for-my-home-theater#post_3946726
When you do buy another subwoofer...set the .1 up at 60hz. That way the sub only does 60hz and lower. 60hz then gets ferried into the DefTech "mid-bass enhancer". Set it "somewhere" between 100-150hz(again, "tweaked to your ears") and call it a day.

Huh?

Are you talking about the crossover?

The .1 channel is the LFE channel. It should be set to 120hz and never changed (if you can adjust it at all). There shouldn't even be an option to change it.

 

[gene c]

I think Sam is suggesting he run a dual subwoofer system. An additional larger sub for 60 hz and lower, the original Pro Cinema 600 sub from 60-100/150 (using the crossover in the 600 sub) and the satellites from 100/150 and above. HSU actually has a Mid-Bass Module just for that purpose http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/mbm-12mk2.html

 

[schan1269]

Exactly...
A serious subwoofer capable of 20hz(they do exist) tend to chuff(if it is ported) around 60hz..
Therein you purchase a smaller "subwoofer"(mid bass) to carry on up to whatever the satellites can actually handle.
I do the same in my theater(that I use for DVD-A/SACD) that utilizes DCM TF600 fronts and TF350 rears.
The .1 subwoofer is an M&K(so old the nametag fell off, unknown actual model number). The receiver is an Integra DTR 5.8.
Here is the basic layout...
DTR 5.8 subwoofer crossed at 80hz(cause you can't go lower).
Front 600 crossed over at 65hz(the point where the transmission line creates chuff)
The rear is actually on the "line out" (meaning the 5.8 only runs the front three channels)
The line out feeds a Behringer crossover set at 75hz. 75hz and under heads to a REAR subwoofer(it is a home made mutt) powered by a Sony TA-N110. The TF350 are actually powered by an old Technics SU-G90.
Crossovers in the receiver...
Sub...80hz(can't go lower)
front...65hz
center...80hz
rear...40hz(and yes, the rear subwoofer only does 40-75hz....it is a pair of 8" woofers from some Xantech outdoor speakers that were hit by a tree and broke the cabinets...wired in series)

 

[dmoney74]

Ok, so after playing with the Denon Reciever for a little bit I figured out how to remove the sub out of the audio and I already had the 2 fronts wired in through the sub as the directions say to do in the manual. I put in the Dark Knight BluRay and I did notice the sound being a lot more crisp and the sub still worked as normal but the sub still vibrated but not as much but def noticable still right at the first of the movie too. So the advice is to buy a new quality sub and keep the sub that I have; get a "Y" cable so I can hook them up at the same time at the crossover levels mentioned? Is it ok to place them next to each other, meaning no weird frequency or distorted noises like a cell phone near an old tv or something?

 

[Robert_J]

get a "Y" cable so I can hook them up at the same time at the crossover levels mentioned?

That's not how he explained it. The current sub is wired up with the fronts. The new sub will be connected to the receiver's LFE/sub output.

Is it ok to place them next to each other, meaning no weird frequency or distorted noises like a cell phone near an old tv or something?

It is OK and you won't have to worry about RF interference. But co-locating them may not result in the best sound. Sub placement is critical in getting the best performance.

 

[dmoney74]

Ok thanks. I am considering a SVS PC12-NSD or a Def Tech SuperCube 4000? I'm also intrigued by the BIC America F12 at a 1/4 of the price? Maybe get the same punch and results with less costs or no, I'm dreaming?

 

[dmoney74]

Ok thanks. I am considering a SVS PC12-NSD or a Def Tech SuperCube 4000? I'm also intrigued by the BIC America F12 at a 1/4 of the price? Maybe get the same punch and results with less costs or no, I'm dreaming?

 

[Brian Serene]

Ok thanks. I am considering a SVS PC12-NSD or a Def Tech SuperCube 4000? I'm also intrigued by the BIC America F12 at a 1/4 of the price? Maybe get the same punch and results with less costs or no, I'm dreaming?

There is no way the BIC F12 can match the performance of true deep bass sub like the SVS PC-12 NSD. If the BIC could match the performance of subs selling for ~$750 there would be no reason to spend the extra money. Compared to the PC-12 NSD the BIC F12 is more like a mid-bass module.
For those whose budget is restricted to around $200, the BIC F12 is one of several good choices. You should also look at the Energy S10.3 for about $220.
But if your budget allows something from SVS, Outlaw, HSU, and others will give you a much better experience than the budget subs.

 

[Dave Moritz]

I got this Polk Audio 12" sub for about $250 from newegg

SVS makes a really nice sub for the money if you want something nicer than the Polk.
Polk Audio PSW Series PSW505 12" Powered Subwoofer
Driver Units: 1 - 12" Diameter, High excursion polymer composite cone with hi roll surround, shielded
Power Rating: Power Output: 300 watts Continuous Average Output Dynamic Power Output: 460 watts
Frequency Response: 23Hz - 160Hz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290130