Finishing Baltic Birch 13ply (1 Viewer)

[Allen Ross]

i got a small can of minwax mahogany red at the hardware store, i was there and it was 3 bucks so i am not complaining. So i have some scarp wood left over and i am making some nice coasters

The first coat seemed a little light and i just applied the second and i think it will need at least 3 if not 4, Also on the first coat i let it set for about a min and then wiped clean so it didn't take much, but on the second i let it sit for about 4 min and i think i will let the 3rd set for about 10 or so and we will see how it goes.

 

[Henry_W]

Birch is darn tight and slow to take the stain. Most of my blotching came because I left it on too long. Patience and repetition is my advice - it should keep it even in the long run.

When done I will oil once a year for about three years to add a deep richness.

 

[Jack Gilvey]

I just used a few 2x4 pieces of the 13-ply Birch they had at my Home Depot for a sub, very nice stuff and much better to work than MDF. I really like the natural look of it, even (especially) the endgrain with the exposed plys. Question is, how do you keep from mucking the wood itself while gluing up? I use poly (Gorilla) glue and I can't sand it off/down enough to consider a stain finish...is wood/yellow glue better in this regard? What can I try while working with it?

 

[Greg Yeatts]

I used a Minwax pre-stain treatment that was to prevent blothcing on my latest project. It worked well.

Jack

I use the poly glue too. I couldn't have stained my last box after using the poly glue. I have used yellow carpenters glue before with good results. While the yellow glue is still wet, you can wipe off any excess with a damp cloth. I am talking about Elmers yellow carpenters glue. I have tried the damp rag trick with Titebond II and it still stains the wood.

 

[Brian Bunge]

Jack,

Gorilla Glue is really overkill for speakers/subs. The titebond stuff is more than sufficient. Also, as long as the glue doesn't run, just let the squeeze out dry and then scrape it off if you are using ply. If using MDF either use a damp rag or just let the glue dry and scrape it as well.

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Gorilla Glue is really overkill for speakers/subs.

Yeah, I know. My circular saw cuts aren't perfect, though, and I really like the gap-filling nature of the stuff (never caulked a box and never had an air leak). I used up my bottle on this last box, though, so I'm going to give the titebond a try next. If I scrape off the dried stuff, or wipe the wet seepage, does it leave a stainable surface (the poly really seems to get down deep into the wood)?

 

[John E Janowitz]

If you're talking about the titebond polyurethane glue, don't waste your time. It's horrible. It expands a lot but is very brittle when dried. You don't need a scraper to get it off, you can just use a finger. Try making a butt joint with it. You'll be able to pull it apart with very little force when dry. at least that was my experience with it.

John

 

[Ken Cline]

You could also use a tinted lacquer. I've done this method on guitars. You can buy premixed translucent lacquer or mix dye to clear lacquer. You can get some real nice results with this finish. The grain shows through and there are no blotchy spots. You want to seal the wood first before applying the tint coats.

-Ken

 

[Ken Cline]

Jack,

Get some blue painters tape and tape off the areas where you'll be gluing. After the glue sets up, remove the tape. I saw David Marks on the Woodworking show (diy TV) do this. He uses all kinds of glue and always uses this tape method. I thought it was a great idea.

I also like the natural look of birch plywood. Here is someone that did this on their Ariels. Note the plywood edges exposed.




-Ken

 

[Allen Ross]

nice, i like the contrast, i 1/4" rounded over my "coasters" that i am testing out and i really like how they take the stain.