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Car Shiva project for a friend.

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Justin Ward, Apr 12, 2003.

  1. Justin Ward

    Justin Ward Well-Known Member

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    A friend wants a sub for his car. He asked me for recommendations so I did some web research. I couldn't find any car subs for the same price(or close) to the Shiva in terms of performance. At least according to my rudimentary understanding of T/S parameters. He wants something that has decent SQ but also booms, almost seems contradictory to me but I guess his idea of quality is differant than mine.

    The box would have to be small, less than 2 cubic feet. I was thinking of tuning it fairly high, around 35hz to give the punch he wants. Also, should he just get a car amp or would the sub100 amp be enough for this?
     
  2. KyleGS

    KyleGS Well-Known Member

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    That's a little small for the Shiva. From your description you should try an IDQv2 12" tuned to 32hz in 1.5cf net. This has great SQ and will have plenty of output.

    Try carmedia1.com for a great price.
     
  3. Cam S

    Cam S Well-Known Member

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    2 cuft too small for the Shiva? I had mine in the car for a while and it was in a box of 1.2 cuft, and it was on par with my Eclipse sub, very impressive. The Shiva will outperform that IDQ big time.
     
  4. KyleGS

    KyleGS Well-Known Member

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    Did you read the post correctly? He wants to port the Shiva in under 2 cf. If he were going sealed I would suggest the Shiva over the IDQ- yes. But I would not suggest a ported Shiva w/ under 2cf or airspace over an IDQ @ 1.5cf. BTW- have you heard an IDQ ported in a car application?
     
  5. Andrew S

    Andrew S Well-Known Member

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    Adire's car audio paper on the Shiva recommends a 2.0 cf shiva tuned to 25hz as one of its vented applications. 2 cubes ported for a Shiva IS possible according to Adire.
    Andrew
     
  6. Justin Ward

    Justin Ward Well-Known Member

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    I didn't realizr Adire had desgins for car boxes as well. I will have to check them out.

    About the amp. Will any car amp with decent power work?

    In one of my earlier posts I asked about using a sub100 amp. PLease ignore this! As you might know there aren't many 110V outlets in a car!
     
  7. PeterV

    PeterV Active Member

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    Justin,

    Not meaning to jump in on your thread but,I'm about ready to start building 2 separate sealed Shiva subs for car setups. Could someone tell me the displacement/litres that the Shiva takes up in the box.
    Thanks
    PeterV
     
  8. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Well-Known Member

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    I never saw a reason to use anything other than a sealed enclosure in a car. Cabin gain gives quite a boost by itself, especially when you're talking about a driver like the Shiva with a low Fs. A ported enclosure only seems to add a huge hump in the FR. Of course, from the sounds of some boomers, that's what they seem to like.

    Pete
     
  9. Justin Ward

    Justin Ward Well-Known Member

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    Maybe sealed would be better. A sealed sub that is anechoicly flat to about 30hz should have an enmpazied mid-bass when placed in a car right?

    Plus sealed is easy to build so I guess I will go sealed. What size enclosure(less than 2 cb ft)will have good performance. If the performance hit isn't very much, I wouldn't mind going down to 1 cubic foot.
     
  10. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Well-Known Member

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    Here's a model of a sealed Shiva in a midsized car.

    [​IMG]

    Starting from the top:
    2 ft^3
    1.5 ft^3
    1.25 ft^3
    1 ft^3

    Pete
     
  11. Mark gas

    Mark gas Well-Known Member

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    Make shure you buy a decent amp. Many cheap amps will not put out rated power and the Shiva will give you a 4 ohm load which may be hard to power in a car. I would get the IDQ with a JBL 300.1(puts ot max power at 2 or 1 ohm)or something similar that puts out between 300-600 watts at 2 or 1 ohm. Whats the budget?
     
  12. Robert_Gaither

    Robert_Gaither Well-Known Member

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    If audio liquidators still has them I'd recommend some of the BP1202 or for slightly more the 1203. The 1202 would be cheaper with a lower vas so it can be put in a smaller box and the 1203 for slightly more would also out displace the shiva for imho a minimal price difference. For a cheaper price with a similar performance the 1201 should be a better bargin as well. The only catch is that adire will be there for you if something goes wrong (I never blew any of my Tempests or Shivaes for HT, but those in car audio... and I don't know about Adire's warrantee for abuse...).
     
  13. Cam S

    Cam S Well-Known Member

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    Ooops, didn't see the port part in the original post. I've always looked at ported subs in car applications as more of a way of getting LOUD bass but within a certain range. This is great for car rattling bass or competitions, but not for nice SQ, unless the sub is tuned really low. A sealed sub would be easier to build right and would provide deep bass with great SQ, not to mention take up less space.
     
  14. KyleGS

    KyleGS Well-Known Member

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    I've heard almost all designs listed so far. My favorite is the ported IDQ @ 1.5cf and sealed 1.5cf Shiva. The IDQ is louder than the Shiva and has a very nice, flat sound to it. The ported IDQ IMO sounded better than the sealed design. It extended a bit further and maintained or improved the SQ. I guess you would need to hear these designs for yourself to really choose/comment on them. Also keep in mind that the car itself will change the sound of the subs.
     
  15. Justin Ward

    Justin Ward Well-Known Member

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    I think I will be going with the sealed 1.5 cu ft Shiva. Since it sounds good and I can get the Shiva hassle free in Canada.

    How much volume does Shiva displace? And should I use any polyfill in the enclosure?
     
  16. Justin Ward

    Justin Ward Well-Known Member

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    Also, would I have to buy the dual input cup to achieve a 4ohm load. How can I wire it for a 4 ohm load with a single input cup?
     
  17. KyleGS

    KyleGS Well-Known Member

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    Displaces 3L.

    You would wire the terminals in parallel (yielding 4 ohm load) and then run wire from one terminal (+ and -) to the single terminal input cup.

    I would add ~1 lb of loose poly-fil.
     
  18. Justin Ward

    Justin Ward Well-Known Member

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    How exactly do I wire in parallel? Positive on terminal to poisitive on VC 1 and then positive on VC2? And then the same for negative?
     
  19. James E

    James E Well-Known Member

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    Have you seen These.[​IMG] Don't take this as a recommendation i have not heard one, but am thinking of one if i ever get around to putting a system in my car[​IMG]
     
  20. Mark gas

    Mark gas Well-Known Member

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