Anyone in Sav, Ga area to help with sub box? (1 Viewer)

[mulalleybs]

also if i don't even see how i would be able to run it in stereo since there is only 1 sw connector? which like i said the behringer amp isn't even showing a signal to it.

 

[Robert_J]

Split the signal with a Y adapter. Technically not stereo but dual mono.

 

[Robert_J]

Oh man, well I finally got back to my place excited, but I have a headache now after trying to mess with the receiver lol. Right now I just have the towers plugged in playing music off a hdmi cable into the receiver to break them in. Ummmmm where to begin.......
I guess I need to buy another rca-xlr cable for the 2nd channel of the sub. It is supposed to be single rca right? one for L and one for R? Now I need to go buy stuff to make the box.
There's really no room for all this stuff that I have at this place so I'm not terribly worried about calibrating with the mic, but if someone could give me a run through on how to set it up that would be appreciated.
I'm sure I'll be making another post in a few minutes.

I used RCA to 1/4" mono phono plugs. Cheaper than XLR and available at Radio Shack.
Plus you can set it to use 1 input to feed each channel. http://www.behringer.com/assets/EP2000_P0A38_M_EN.pdf Page 6. Mode settings. DIP switches 4 and 5 set to parallel.
You should also set the clip limiter off and the low cut filter off.

 

[Robert_J]

oh i was told to run it stereo, irrelevant at the moment since I have no box. Here's something I don't understand. I have the sub sitting in the chair (just wanted to test it at low volumes free air to make sure everything was in working order) have one coil hooked up to output 1 then the xlr-rca from output 1 to SW R. The sig light isnt on on the amp and no sound coming from the sub. I'm completely lost.

Is your LFE output turn on? Are your speaker settings on "small"?
My signal light rarely comes on unless I crank it. Plus, make sure you wired up the sub correctly. If you wire one coil out of phase with the other, then you can easily fry the sub without it ever moving. I had a friend do that with version 1 of that big sub I posted a picture of.

 

[mulalleybs]

Well I changed the speakers to small and LFE output as on and the sub shows some life, but pretty much none to be honest, the only way I could feel the sub was by touching it while turning the volume up and down. I don't understand what the issue is. The signal light was turning on/off like crazy by the way.
Is this something I should worry about or should I just take a chill pill until the box is made?

 

[Robert_J]

The signal light was turning on/off like crazy by the way.

That means there's a good signal going in and power coming out. Make sure you don't have the coils wired out of phase. That will fry sub in under a minute.

 

[mulalleybs]

what do you mean by out of phase? I had the pos of one coil running to the pos of the other coil and came for the negs then ran the pos/neg to the amp and was using 1 channel. Being in open air the sub should be able to reach xmax really easy right? the movement of the woofer was pretty much none existent to the eye at all even when the volume turned up a decent amount.

 

[schan1269]

Don't do that again. That is likely to cook the entire thing...if it hasn't already.
Running in SERIES(which is what I would do...)
Run the amp mono.
Run the positive to a positive on the sub(doesn't matter, pick one).
That coinciding negative goes to the OTHER positive.
The remaining negative goes back to the amp.
That is an "in series" connection.
Or, you could run the amp stereo(or dual mono)...each pos to a pos, negatives back to the amp.
What you did is HOW DO I KILL MY EQUIPMENT 101....
READ YOUR MANUALS.

 

[schan1269]

By the way, to further explain things since your manuals are still apparently untouched in their plastic sleeves...
What do you NOT want to do?
Kill your amp and sub.
How do you kill both?
Do what you did.
This is "running a dual voice coil subwoofer out of phase"...or put into a vernacular you can understand...how to screw your $#%^ up...
pos to pos, that pos to the next pos.
pos to negative. negative to negative.
negative back to the amp.
That is called "What do I do if I want to kill my dual voice coil subwoofer?"
Are you familiar with Tug-of-War???
Running what you did is Tug-of-War. When you do that, the amp and sub both lose.

 

[Robert_J]

I edited my post. I meant to say fry a sub.
You were running your sub at 1 ohm if your coils were in phase. The amp isn't designed to drive a load that low. Wire it in series like Sam said. You can then run it on 1 channel or mono. Your choice. I suggest a single channel because mono will have way too much power behind it. A slip of the volume control could push the driver beyond xmech. That's the mechanical limits of the driver. You either slam the coil into the back plate (back part of the magnet) and/or push the coil out far enough to tear the suspension (spider and surround).
You should also test the polarity of the terminals on the sub. Take a 9v battery and touch it to the terminals quickly. Positive of the batter to the positive terminal of the sub. The cone should move out. Then check the other set of terminals. This confirms they are labeled correctly and you didn't buy a bad sub.
Finally, check the DIP switch settings on your amp. I mentioned the settings earlier and what they should be on for stereo operation.

 

[mulalleybs]

I edited my post. I meant to say fry a sub.
You were running your sub at 1 ohm if your coils were in phase. The amp isn't designed to drive a load that low. Wire it in series like Sam said. You can then run it on 1 channel or mono. Your choice. I suggest a single channel because mono will have way too much power behind it. A slip of the volume control could push the driver beyond xmech. That's the mechanical limits of the driver. You either slam the coil into the back plate (back part of the magnet) and/or push the coil out far enough to tear the suspension (spider and surround).
You should also test the polarity of the terminals on the sub. Take a 9v battery and touch it to the terminals quickly. Positive of the batter to the positive terminal of the sub. The cone should move out. Then check the other set of terminals. This confirms they are labeled correctly and you didn't buy a bad sub.
Finally, check the DIP switch settings on your amp. I mentioned the settings earlier and what they should be on for stereo operation.

Alright, well I guess my sub and or amp are ruined, I ran it in series and hooked it up to channel 1. Turned off the lpf on the amp, then changed the speakers to small and put on lpf on the amp and played some music. The only thing that came from the sub at any volume was a low rumble.
Excuse me while I smack myself.

 

[Robert_J]

Push the cone of the driver down gently with your fingers on the dust cap. There should be no noise at all if you press straight down. It may scrape a little if you push off center. If there's a scrunch or the sound like wires being stretched then you are SOL.
Did you do the battery test? Do you have a multi-meter to test the resistance of each coil?

 

[schan1269]

Well, a low rumble is what it is supposed to do...was it in sync to some music?
And by music, I mean music....not some low-bit MP3/Aupeo/Spotify 160 crap.

 

[mulalleybs]

I tried wiring it in series before you mentioned the 9V, I need to go buy one seeing as how I don't own anything that runs on a 9v battery.
I was playing music through my laptop via hdmi you could hear the sub playing the notes of the song, but it is barely audible. I checked the sub yesterday and today when the cone was pushed there was no signs that it was actually blown.
And I don't have a multimeter
Would the amp have to have gotten really hot to be ruined? It was cold the whole time I had it on yesterday.

 

[schan1269]

What "laptop music" were you listening to?
Most "laptop/ipod/MP3" music has squat for bass. You need a CD or DVD.

 

[mulalleybs]

What "laptop music" were you listening to?
Most "laptop/ipod/MP3" music has squat for bass. You need a CD or DVD.

I was listening to some dubstep. I know when I listen to it in my truck it hits fairly hard and low vs almost nothing here. I'll put it this way, the towers set to small were putting out more bass than the sub.

 

[schan1269]

Small/Large has nothing to do with "bass performance"...
It has to do with if the speakers are being cut-off at the crossover you are using...which is?
Sitting there with nothing separating the front and back...plus the whole "it isn't broken in yet" mean it isn't supposed to do much yet.
If it is doing anything at all...then you probably haven't fried it.
Besides...what brand receiver is this and what crossover did you pick?
Also, did you pick "LFE + main"?

 

[mulalleybs]

the last time i tried it i had it on just lfe, i left the crossover at 80hz. the receiver is a denon 4310 and the sub is used so it should already be broken in.

 

[schan1269]

So, what crossover did you use on the main speakers?
IE, just because the sub is "set 80hz" doesn't mean the sub is getting everything below 80hz on 2.0 sources.
If your main are set 40hz...then the sub is only getting 40hz and under.
By the way, page 35 of the 4310 owners manual.

 

[mulalleybs]

I'm not sure what the crossover was for everything else, the music I was playing was went through quite a bit of low frequencies definitely went lower than 40hz though. I was able to have the sub added to 2.0 once then couldn't figure out how to do it again so I was playing 5.1 stereo to test it. Right now I had the pos to one voice coil running to the amp and the neg to the over voice coil running to the same channel of the amp and then the unused pos of the voice coil and the unused neg of the other voice coil connected. (looked up dvc 2 ohm to 4 ohm diagram to make sure)