1st speaker project - was: New Idea For a Small Business, at age 15! (Moved) (1 Viewer)

[bobbyg2]

Nope, it's long gone now.

 

[bobbyg2]

I'm going to go with a 15" TCSounds TC9 driver, with 2 PR's. A long ways off of the original thought, but heck if I care. May be a long time, because I got to get my new computer cooled down with better airflow, as well as better parts. So, it may take up to $500 to upgrade this computer. So, I'll let this thread die for a month or two until I get the money to buy the sub. thanks for the help guys.

 

[bobbyg2]

I called off the cooling upgrade, and now it's officially time to start saving for my sub!

Now, I'd like to start this off new. I guess I pissed a few people off back there with my "ignorance" and got some "constructive criticism" in return, so I think we should leave all previous discussion behind us and star anew.

So, here's what I've been thinking. I'm going to go the sealed route, as it is cheaper, and easier. So, not much calculations will have to be used. Here's my ideas for parts:

Elemental Designs 1300watt Sub-Plate amplifier

TC Sounds TC-9 15" Subwoofer

And I'll get the MDF wood from Home Depot. What do you guys think?

 

[Robert_J]

Nice choices but there are things you need to consider. The TC-9 is a dual 4 ohm model. The ED amp is not rated to drive loads below 4 ohms. So you would have to wire the sub up as an 8 ohm load. That means you amp would only push about half the power.

I recommend the BKA1000-4A. It's 1000w into 4 ohms and 1,900w into 2 ohms. People have found it for as little as $230 shipped. For the sub, get the Soundsplinter RL-p 15 dual 2. This will mate up perfectly with this amp and allow you to upgrade to an additional sub later.

Since you want to go sealed, the TC-3000 is the sub to look at. Since it is 2 ohm, the BKA amp will push the it's full 1,900w into it. I'm running 1,000w to each of my 3K's and I the output from one is unbelievable.

Finally, get a sub EQ like the Behringer Feedback Destroyer. You have stepped into the world-class sub arena and cutting corners is just not smart. I spent yesterday evening with my test tones disc and my SPL meter graphing my sub's frequency response. The 3K's are a high inductance sub so there's a natural peak around 55hz. I used a free spreadsheet to graph the response and simulate adding BFD filters. I'll be making the changes Sunday.

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

Ok, thanks, so is this a good parts list?:

Driver: http://tcsounds.com/tc3000.htm

Amp: http://www.amazon.com/Buttkicker-BKA.../dp/B000AM2OT8

Feedback Filter: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=248-656

The total price tag is $752.56 (before MDF, wiring, etc.). Wiring, wood, and tools will come from Home Depot. Should I get a Terminal Plate too? I would think it would look better than a wiring sticking through the wood.

Also:
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ctGroup_ID=137
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ctGroup_ID=139

Would probably have to be ordered too, right?

 

[Robert_J]

Driver - That's it. I'm amazed every time I watch the high def trailer for Transformers. That's some serious bass.
Amp - Keep a eye out for one on Ebay where the seller has a "Make an offer" button. He will take $190+$30 shipping. $220 isn't bad for a amp like this.
BFD - That's the one. Check Ebay. A lot of people are upgrading to the new model and you should be able to find them for under $100.
Terminal Plate - I use #260-311 for my speakers. I'm using 260-314 when I re-build my sub cabinets.
Stuffing - Wal-Mart polyfil. 20oz for $1.95. I picked up 10 bags once when they were on sale for $1.25.
Feet - 260-774 should work. The spiked feet are great but if you miss the little metal thing it rests on, it will dig into the wood under your carpet. This sub will weigh well over 100 pounds.

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

God, I hate buying used components, especially when it's from someone I don't know...

 

[Robert_J]

Used BFD's show up here and the for sale section at www.infinitelybaffled.com all of the time. At least you know they were used by caring people who don't abuse equipment. I wouldn't buy one that had been on tour with a band.

Shouldn't you be in school or working a summer job?

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

Missed the bus. Alarm clock unplugged last night when I was sleeping.

 

[bobbyg2]

Bah, it seems that wallet alarm goes off every time I want to make a purchase... What's the best driver/amp I can get for $500 for the pair? I can't spend to much. Like you guy's have the 'wife factor' I have the 'mom factor'...

EDIT:

Idea!

Driver: Dayton Titanic II (Parts Express)
AMP: Buttkicker BKA (Same as above)
Feedback Thingy: Feedback Destroyer (Same as above)
Feet: Same as you suggested
Polyfill: Some stuff from Wal-Mart (I cringe at the thought of getting something for my home theater from Wal-Mart)
Terminal: Same as you

Hmm... that should come out to about $501!

I think I pretty much have it all planned out! So, do you think that parts list there is good? Good enough to rattle my mobile home?

 

[Robert_J]

Why don't you start small? Get the DVC 12". It's on sale for $88 right now. That is a great sub. The SA-240 plate amp for $129. Proven amp. If you don't have tools or don't want to spend time on a box, go to Wal-Mart and get a Scosche sub box for $30 (the 10 inch version of this box is on clearance at my local WM for $10 each). It only requires a screw driver to assemble. When I built one, I used screws as well as wood glue ($3). It took me an hour

When you want more output, build a 4cf ported box tuned to 20hz.

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

Alright, thanks!

EDIT:
Hmm... I was wondering. Since the 15" is only $10 more, I think I'll get that. It offers me more of a opportunity to upgrade. I just have to get an amp that can drive it, with a little overhead, and build a enclosure that will give me enough room for a bigger sub. Also, I'll go sealed at first, but later on I may go ported. I like the idea of having 20hz rattling my bed.

So, should I stay with the 12", Wal-Mart enclosure, and that amp? Or, do you think it'll sound better and cost less (in the long-run) to just go with a 15" right off the starting line?

 

[Joey Skinner]

"I guess I pissed a few people off back there with my "ignorance" and got some "constructive criticism" in return, so I think we should leave all previous discussion behind us and star anew."

I would've bet money that this was a prank thread perpetrated by a genius but now I see that your just a kid who wants to get into speaker building. Someone with less persistance would have been intimidated a long time ago and given up so my hat's off to you.
So here are my opinions. We all have to start somewhere and I think a sub is the best place to make that start. For an extra $10 I'd go with the 15" in a sealed box. I wouldn't worry about a fancy finish or veneer right now because if you are like me, you will soon want more, so a ported box will be your next project. If can't live with plain MDF, finish the box with truck bed liner in a spray can. That's the easiest finish to do and it can look really good. Building sub enclosures will give you good experience working with MDF. Remember, MDF is cheap so if you make a mistake on a cut just start over rather than trying to make a bad piece work.
For your next project I would build some bookshelf speakers using a kit or some proven plans.
You'll probably be driving soon so your attention may shift to car audio. With the experience you gain from these projects you'll be able to build car subs that will make you the envy (or maybe the terror!) of the neighborhood.
So please accept my apologies for doubting you. If you get into this hobby/profession I don't think you will regret it.
Don't forget to thank Robert J for sticking with this thread and giving great advice throughout.

 

[bobbyg2]

I have thanked him, and will continue to thank him for his help. I will also give my thanks to you for your help as well.

Thanks Robert, Joey, and all of the other people that have been helping me with my projects.

I will build the sub soon, but first have to buy a receiver. I just noticed my current receiver didn't have a subwoofer output! So, I made a new thread in the receiver part of this site.

Again, I thank you guys for your help.

 

[Robert_J]

I can't believe that I stayed this long and I don't even like kids. But Bobby has actually listened to our advice. That's amazing for a 15 year old.

The 15" will give you a lot more output but you will have to build a box. My 12" suggestion is the quickest way to get sound.

And I agree with Joey about the driving. If you learn the basics of car audio, you can make some extra money on sub boxes and installed. It doesn't take much to beat Circuit City and Best Buy installers.

-Robert

 

[Robert_J]

A lot of plate amps have both high (speaker level) and low (pre-amp level) inputs.

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

I'm in need for a better receiver anyway. Mine is getting a bit old, and my mom wants to put it in the living room. I'll be building better fronts (Dayton 8's... I hope) after this subwoofer anyways.

 

[Robert_J]

Why are you hanging around with us old farts? There are a lot of 16 year old girls you need to be out chasing!

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

Sadly, I'm not too much of a ladies man...

 

[JohnRice]

Bobby, I just wanted to say that your current sig image has earned you a small amount of redemption. Very small amount, but it made me laugh.