1st speaker project - was: New Idea For a Small Business, at age 15! (Moved) (1 Viewer)

[bobbyg2]

I've been thinking... And maybe I should go with the 15" Dayton High-Fidelity sub? I'd have a lot of power, and I can get a better frequency range than the DVC. The DVC only goes from 20-450 Hz. The HF goes from 18 - 800 Hz...

I'd be willing to spend the extra dough to get it, as I want to get the best I can... Maybe a Titanic would be a good option as well? They're only $60-$66 more, and I'd be willing to use that money for them.

What do you think? Is it a big enough increase to be worth paying $60-$66 more?

 

[Robert_J]

Did you not read post #165? The stated frequency range is a useless piece of data. Ignore it. You will have to model the subs in their appropriate sized enclosures to determine their response. Put the DVC 15 in the EBS enclosure described here and you will significant output in a small room down to about 12hz (depending on the SSF of the amp you choose).

The Titanic is another good option. There are hundreds of good options but you have to decide which one fits your needs. The Titanic 15 has been used in different designs for years. Yes, it's only a little more than the DVC but you also have to factor in other things. To use it to its full potential, you will need a much larger amp. Something in the 500w range.

A step up from the Titanic would be something like the TC-2000. Again, to get the full potential, you will have to build a massive box and power it will at least 1,000w.

I've stated it before, it's not just the driver. It's the whole package of driver, enclosure, amp, etc. You wouldn't buy a Ferrari and power it with a 20hp Briggs & Statton lawn mower engine. Yes, it would get you around town but you would be wasting so much potential. But if you never needed that potential then why buy the Ferrari at all.

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

Thanks. That TC Sounds driver would be a little much, 500w is plenty enough!

I'll blow my house away with the TC sounds... Heck, I'd blow it away with the Titanic! I'll get the Titanic, it fits my budget, and has plenty headroom for me. Now, are you sure I need a enclosure that massive? 42.5x24x24 seems a little big... That'd be almost as big as the Dayton 8.

And about the Ferrari thing, yeah, I realize that. I was just referring to the driver adding that certain amount to it, I figured I'd take care of the amp later.

Thanks!
Bobby

 

[bobbyg2]

Hmm... I was thinking, if I was to use an enclosure that large, I'd might as well use it as my TV stand. But, the problem is that my TV is really heavy. So MDF might not be strong enough. Is there any type of wood that can be used for my sub enclosure and can hold a really heavy early 90's 26" console TV?

*edit*
I was thinking of just using close to the same design, but turn it onto it's side and put the drivers and vents on the front. Now, if I change it like that, would it change the tuning frequency? Even if I only move the driver and vent to a different side?

 

[Ryan Leemhuis]

You will want to be careful about doing that. Your TV is a CRT and your sub will not be shielded. Placing it on top could lead to some stray magnetic fields interfering with the electron gun's accuracy(leading to color corruption)

 

[Robert_J]

Ryan is 100% correct about the magnetic fields. I've been very careful to keep the 38 pound magnets from my TC-3000 away from any TV. I'm also careful to keep them away from metal of any kind. Two of them touched and it took about 10 minutes and two guys to pull them apart.

And a properly built MDF box held together with nothing but wood glue will hold a massive amount of weight. I'm about 230 pounds and my sub boxes can hold me.

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

Ohh crap, I forgot about that! Thanks! Would there be any sort of barrier that I can put in between the TV and the sub? Like, a piece of metal or something?

 

[JohnRice]

Just make the cabinet out of 1/4" steel and you'll kill two birds with one stone. I'm sure the vibrations from the sub won't bother the TV at all.

 

[bobbyg2]

I meant to block the magnet. What do they do to "sheild" magnets?

 

[Robert_J]

When they shield a midbass or a tweeter, they put a steel cup around the magnet and/or use a bucking magnet (an extra magnet mounted to the speaker but in the opposite polarity). That's fine. That works with small magnetic fields. With subs, you are looking at magnet assemblies weighing up to 50 pounds. When you get away from these cheap subs and into the "real sub" category, you will not find shielded models. You can shield your enclosure by using Mu metal. Or you can use a sub with a neodymium magnet like this, this or this. The magnets are just as strong but they are able to contain more of the stray magnetic field.

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

Alright, I'll look into the mu metal once I get to the point of buying my sub. Now, does it work well with a TC Sounds driver?

 

[Robert_J]

It would probably be cheaper to buy yourself a new LCD television that is immune to magnetic fields instead of using mu metal to shield a sub.

The neo magnets I posted will have varying magnetic fileds based on the design. You will either have to get the information straight from the manufacturer or buy one and test it yourself.

Basically, it is not worth the time and money to shield a quality sub. Just use a TV and media that are not affected by magnetic fields. That's why I use a projector (and I get a 103" picture). I am planning on playing my entire CD collection in WMA format from a hard drive. But my drive is located in the office and I'll just use a streaming device over my home network to accomplish this.

-Robert

 

[bobbyg2]

Thanks!

Now, I'm sure this is the wrong place to ask this, but what would be a good (non-high def) LCD TV that I could get? Is there such a thing for about $200-$250? Something around 24" or 26"? If this really aint the right spot to ask this, then tell me and I'll make a new thread in the TV forum.

 

[Ryan Leemhuis]

Don't waste your money. There should be no reason that you can't place your TV far enough out of the way of the sub. It doesn't need to be a huge distance...just a few feet usually.

 

[bobbyg2]

Alright, thanks.

 

[Ballgeier]

Placing you sub next to or close to your TV is not always the best location for optimum output anyway. There are several articles on the web describing placement of a sub, "crawling" for bass is probably the best way to properly locate it. I built my own sub using the 15" dayton Titanic sub and a BASH 300 watt plate amp. Someday I may upgrade to a 500 or even the 1000 watt amp, but the 300 watt amp seems to do just fine.

 

[bobbyg2]

1000-watt for me!

I was thinking about TC Sounds, but I may change that dependent on if the deal I'm looking at continues till i get the money

 

[bobbyg2]

Hmm... I wanted to be able to hear the subwoofer, but for people to say "hey, do you have a sub? Where is it?". Pretty much, make it a box that looks like an extension to the entertainment center I'll be building. Now, that'd work fine, if I made it down-firing. And, put things on top of it and use it as some sort of table when it's not vibrating my neighborhood. Now, would there be a design that would be about (external) 22"(D)36"(W)32"(W) and would tune the driver to around 15Hz (?)? (about 13.55 internal ft^3)

Well, I used WINISD to find out what 2x4" vents would be and got a port size (using a Dayton Titanic) of 4"x19.2" with an end correction .732 (what's end correction mean?) and tuned a 13.546 ft^3 enclosure to 15Hz. Here are some images:
[url=https://static.hometheaterforum.com/imgrepo/3/32/htf_imgcache_7691.jpeg] [/url][url=https://static.hometheaterforum.com/imgrepo/f/fc/htf_imgcache_7692.jpeg] [/url]

What do you guys think? WinISD is a little bit hard to work with... And I'm sure there is a few things I missed...

 

[Ballgeier]

OK, apparently you do not listen very well to what others suggest. Sounds like you have already made up your mind on most things and you want someone else to approve what you're wanting to do. Either, listen to what everyone tells you, or quit posting the same stuff and move on. This post has went from you wanting to make and sell these "awesome" speakers, to how you are going to set up your HT.

 

[Cody Payne]

can i have the last 35 minutes of my life back?