Jeff's tips for getting a smooth painted finish on MDF.
1. Don't invest too much time sanding the MDF until it has been primed. You will never ever get rid of the fuzzy texture. If you have to sand something, sand the edges smooth.
2. Prime it with nothing but regular original plain-jane rattle can Kilz. Not Kilz II / latex / odor-free / or any other variant. And not with a brush.
3. Depending on the MDF stock, it can take a ridiculous number of primer coats to get the edges primed. It just keeps soaking it in. Keep priming, though, until it's WHITE.
4. After it's primed, your sanding will be effective.
4a. I start with a 100-grit or so sheet pressed against the surface with the palm of my hand. I then knock off the bigger fuzzies with a motion similar to that of wiping off a table with a rag. Really, this is more 'wiping' than 'sanding. No more than 10 seconds spent here.
4b. Use an ultra-fine-grit finishing sandpaper in a power sander for the 'real' sanding. The fine sandpaper will load up quickly, so you have to use a lot of it.
Item 4b leaves room for interpretation. You have to choose your own level of anal-retentitude. Lately, I've gotten tired of woodworking and painting after putting so much (wasted) effort into my little MAME console box. So I haven't put a lot of TLC into the controllers. I've taken lots of shortcuts. They're kinda thrown together, and I certainly didn't sand like I coulda. But I don't think it's really going to matter...
Rustoleum Hammered spraypaint is the best thing since sliced bread. You can still get good results even without getting super anal about it. Plus, it just looks freakin' cool!
Or, as Dave, Jay and I were discussing yesterday, you can just punt and not paint at all. Nothing could be easier than applying
vinyl veneer. I'm not sure where you can get rolls wide enough for an arcade cabinet, but I'm sure they're out there. Vinyl will save you unspeakable amounts of time vs. painting.