New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Austin DIY HT Projects - Page 34

post #991 of 1248
Okay, I'm sold... Oct. 1 it is. Can we shoot for an early start?

I'm going to try to make a run to Home Depot during the week to pick up some sheet goods w/ the big oranage HD rental truck. The only thing I really don't have is a good jigsaw.

Dave and Jay, what would be a convenient lunch area for yall?
post #992 of 1248
Chad,
An early start on the 1st is good for me. If you plan to pick up sheet goods for all participating, count me in. Once we get our hands on the plans, we can determine the number of sheets per cabinet. It would be good to have a head count, so all those interested, the time is now to make yourself known.

I looked for and did not find Defender specs for the original monitor size, but I think Dave said he put a 19" CRT in his cabinet. So unless someone wants to go even larger, one design should accomodate everybody. The exception being the bezel piece, which would have to customized for the specific monitor.

I propose we cut one side panel as a template, trace it to define the remaining side, and cut it ~1/8" proud. Then, placing the template on the rough-cut panel, flush trim it with the router. This method will make both sides identical with no hassle. The remaining panels are straight cuts. Does anyone have a flush trimming bit that can handle the 3/4" thickness of the sheet material. I only have a 1/2" bit, which would require 2 passes for each side panel.

See you guys Saturday!
post #993 of 1248
Yeah, I used a Sony 19" trinitron CRT monitor. If you use a similar setup, plan on leaving the back open. A 19" CRT is too deep to fit in the depth of the standard Defender cabinet, plus it puts out some heat. You could tilt it downward and make it fit though.

Also, I'd recommend getting some uber heavy duty casters to mount to the bottom of the cabinets so that you can move them.

Jeff is almost done with the discs and the hole saw and I have the slotting bit in the car so perhaps we can meet for lunch tomorrow or weds. It would have to be in North Austin for me to be able to fit it in my schedule.

-Dave
post #994 of 1248
I can do lunch tomorrow (Tuesday) and bring the discs for Jay.
post #995 of 1248
Dave and Jeff,
I can do lunch Tuesday as well. I also work north, and I have a very flexible lunch schedule. I know this great little mom and pop BBQ place at 183 and Ohlen called Mann's. Very quick, very good, and truly nice folks. If that's OK, let me know what time. Otherwise, I'm open to suggestions.
post #996 of 1248
Sounds good to me. How about high noon?
post #997 of 1248
I'm probably going to go with a 19" CRT as well. How hard would it be to modify the Defender cabinet? Hmmm, wonder if I could save some depth by removing the case from my monitor?

Jay, I'm planning to pick up a 1" flush trimming bit from Woodcraft. So we should be good there.
post #998 of 1248
Jeff,
Noon is good for me. See you there.
Just in case Dave can't make it and since we haven't actually met... I will e-mail you my cell #.

Dave?
post #999 of 1248
You can email it to me, but my HTF email is invalid. Instead, use jeff at boxybutgood. com.
post #1000 of 1248
If I can get out of work I'll meet you guys there.

I have the slotting bit in the car too. Look for the excessively dirty black Evo.

-Dave
post #1001 of 1248
Jay,

Here is the link to that monitor I told you about. $80 for a 21" Trinitron CRT. Not a bad deal at all for you MAMErs.

http://www.surpluscomputers.com/stor...&item=MON10136

Also, for cheap Dell PCs, check these sites daily:

www.gotapex.com
www.techbargains.com

You should be able to find a basic PC with a 15" LCD for around $299 if you keep checking daily as the deals cycle through. Then you can sell the LCD for $100-150 on ebay. They also get more enticing as Dell's quarter end nears (end of October).

Chad -- Jay now has the ROM DVDs, the DIY CD, the hole saw and the router bit. So you guys should be all set for your DIY day.

-Dave
post #1002 of 1248
Thx for the discs and the info Dave.

While I'm on the subject...
I happened on a site for those who have a little interest in arcades. These arcades were designed to use only one sheet of material... uh... wood product... er... whatever. Enjoy!
post #1003 of 1248
Chad,
I came across this site which details step-by-step instructions to build a Defender cabinet. Check it out before you hit the builder supply. He includes a materials list which could also be very helpful.

I have the dims now and will try to get this laid out in AutoCAD before the meet.

E-mail directions to your place so I can get there Saturday.
post #1004 of 1248
Jay,

I have a 1" flush trim bit with a 1/4" shank you guys can use. Unfortunately, my jig saw is at my son's house in Wimberley, so I guess we're out of luck on the jig saw. If push comes to shove, I do have a reciprocating saw, however, that's a pretty crude way to go. I also have a couple of jasper jigs for cutting circles with a router if you need it, as well as a few other assorted hand tools and stationary tools. Let me know if you need anything else.

Chad,

Would you please PM me with your address. I've been to your place a couple of times, but at my age, I lucky to remember which car is mine in my own driveway, so I don't recall the exact address. I'm not sure how long I can stay Saturday, but I'll at least drop off the flush trim bit and any other tools you may need. Thanks.

Rich
post #1005 of 1248
I'm in too. So if you are already picking up wood Chad please pick up enough for me as well. In a pinch I can always use my wagon for 4x8's it just requires I have some help to load it.

I was hoping we get these pretty far along via 2 build days if possible. I'm hoping we'd have a pretty much painted and partially assembled raw cabinet before we called it a day. After all most everyone isn't going to be able to put the partial pieces in their car anyway. So a truck could do delivery duty on a 2nd day, and nobody has to hassel with assembly once they get it home. Just finishing touches like control panel wiring and the monitor surround (which also could be done as a mass project). We have plenty of time saturday to discuss these things though.
post #1006 of 1248
I did some testing last night, and confirmed that my little EPIA M9000 system just doesn't have the balls to do MAME. And believe me, I've tried everything. My P4 1.8, on the other hand, can play just about anything. It doesn't start dropping frames until you get to modern 3D stuff like Tekken III.

The problem is, I've spent hours and hours and hours building this gorgeous little MAME console box around the EPIA board. And the effort is wasted. Argh!!

Lesson learned: "Measure twice, cut once". Oops... I mean "test before you build". This is a cautionary tale for all of you soon-to-be-MAMEers. Test your PC and monitor combo. Download the emulators and 5 or 6 of your favorite games and TEST it before you make any cabinet customizations based on the assumption that it will work.
post #1007 of 1248
Jeff's tips for getting a smooth painted finish on MDF.

1. Don't invest too much time sanding the MDF until it has been primed. You will never ever get rid of the fuzzy texture. If you have to sand something, sand the edges smooth.

2. Prime it with nothing but regular original plain-jane rattle can Kilz. Not Kilz II / latex / odor-free / or any other variant. And not with a brush.

3. Depending on the MDF stock, it can take a ridiculous number of primer coats to get the edges primed. It just keeps soaking it in. Keep priming, though, until it's WHITE.

4. After it's primed, your sanding will be effective.

4a. I start with a 100-grit or so sheet pressed against the surface with the palm of my hand. I then knock off the bigger fuzzies with a motion similar to that of wiping off a table with a rag. Really, this is more 'wiping' than 'sanding. No more than 10 seconds spent here.

4b. Use an ultra-fine-grit finishing sandpaper in a power sander for the 'real' sanding. The fine sandpaper will load up quickly, so you have to use a lot of it.


Item 4b leaves room for interpretation. You have to choose your own level of anal-retentitude. Lately, I've gotten tired of woodworking and painting after putting so much (wasted) effort into my little MAME console box. So I haven't put a lot of TLC into the controllers. I've taken lots of shortcuts. They're kinda thrown together, and I certainly didn't sand like I coulda. But I don't think it's really going to matter...

Rustoleum Hammered spraypaint is the best thing since sliced bread. You can still get good results even without getting super anal about it. Plus, it just looks freakin' cool!

Or, as Dave, Jay and I were discussing yesterday, you can just punt and not paint at all. Nothing could be easier than applying vinyl veneer. I'm not sure where you can get rolls wide enough for an arcade cabinet, but I'm sure they're out there. Vinyl will save you unspeakable amounts of time vs. painting.
post #1008 of 1248
Dave,
Chad and I were talking about the control panel and it seems that we both have considered duplicating your set-up. After putting it through its paces, is there anything you would change or any tips you might offer? And If you have a dim drawing of it, would you be willing and able to provide it for us?

It looks like everyone who previously expressed and interest in the MAME project has re-spressed it... except Nils, who seemed pretty interested a while back.

I'm not normally a 'working for the weekend' type, but I'm really looking forward to Saturday and ultimately the end product.
post #1009 of 1248
Jay,

CAD drawing? HA! You give me way too much credit. I just pulled a Meininger and threw planning out the window and figured it out along the way. Fortunately I only had 1 minor "do-over" when I realized that a 1-1/8th hole is a fraction too big for the buttons.

The control panel is 24" x 10". Thats about the minimum you'll need for a 2P joystick + trackball setup.

My layout has the trackball dead center, and a joystick on each side. Each joystick has 3 fire buttons to the right of the stick, curving upward in an arc. At the top, from left to right, are -- ESC, 1 Coin, 1P, Mouse 1, Mouse 2, 2P, 2 Coin, Enter.

I'll try to take a closeup pic of it for you, but the best thing is to just lay them out on a piece of 10"x24" paper.

-Dave
post #1010 of 1248
Dave,
Did I say CAD drawing? I just thought you might still have that crumpled piece of paper you drew up as a template. A good pic may help though. Oh well, I guess we'll muddle thru somehow.
post #1011 of 1248
Okay, fess up... who bought all the 3/4" MDF from the Bee Caves Home Depot?!

Luckily, the one near Hank @ 2222 & 620 had some in stock! I bought enough for myself, Jay H, Humphrey and my friend David, and rented the big orange HD truck to get everything home. I'll have a final tally for materials on Saturday, but it'll likely come a little less than $90.

We're pretty much at a critical mass as far as builders go. Rich, you're more than welcome to come watch some/all of the festivities.
post #1012 of 1248
Chad,

Thanks for offer, I can certainly be a "gofer" for you while I watch, I mean "assist". How are you fixed for tools? If you need anything, let me know and I'll see what I can bring. What time does the fun begin?

Rich
post #1013 of 1248
Tool-wise, the only thing I think we're missing is a good jigsaw. I've got serviceable $40 Skil jigsaw, but have had my eye on a nice Bosch model. All of the reviews rave about it cutting through things "like butter." With my Skil, it sure doesn't feel like butter.

We're going to try to kick off around 9am. I've got to meet a contractor with my wife upstairs for 30-40 minutes starting at 10:30, but I'm sure Jay and Ken will be keeping themselves busy downstairs in the shop.
post #1014 of 1248
Thread Starter 
Quote:
It looks like everyone who previously expressed and interest in the MAME project has re-spressed it... except Nils, who seemed pretty interested a while back.
Thanks for thinking of me..

At the time, I already had a previous commitment for Sat afternoon, and I didn't say anything so as not to make everyone re-schedule. After all, we had enough problems with re-scheduling from the last HT meet...

If I can get free, I may drop by and offer a hand if need be, or at least marvel at all your grand craftsmanship.

BTW: Is anyone in the MAME meet planning to also attend Hank/Colton's poker game? If so perhaps we can caravan out there afterwards.
post #1015 of 1248
Chad,

Unfortunately, my timing is bad, my son has my jigsaw, and he's in Wimberley, so I can't just pick it up on the way to the meet tomorrow. I have a DeWalt jigsaw, and am very pleased with it. Not sure how it stacks up to the Bosch, but it certainly works for me. I'd be interested in your "review" of the Bosch when you get it. I'll throw my reciprocating saw in the truck as a backup. Not exactly a precision tool, but it's easier to put in the truck then my bandsaw. :-)
post #1016 of 1248
Pelan and I are going to Colton's after the Mame meet. Let me know if you want me to swing by.
post #1017 of 1248
Chad, I have a good Makita jigsaw. Do you want me to bring it tonight?

GUYS: Do you know about the Texas Classic Car Show at Rudy's on 183 today (9:00 - 4:00)?:
http://texasccs.com/
post #1018 of 1248
So guys.... how'd the MAME DIY day go?

Lets hear it!

-Dave
post #1019 of 1248
Dave,
It went very well.

There were 5 of us there: Chad, Humphrey, Rich, Amon, and me (Amon is my daughter's boyfriend). Rich was there to help as he was not building one for himself. What a trooper! Nils showed up at the end of Saturday afternoon just about the time we knocked off.

Working from CAD drawings I drew up, we spent Saturday cutting material for 6 cabinets. It was a dusty mess, but all good fun. Luckily, the weather was relatively cool and breezy until mid-afternoon, when it got hot pretty quickly.

First mapped out and cut one of the sides with a jigsaw. Then sanded it and completed its shape. We used this piece as a template and traced the shape onto 11 more pieces, which we rough cut (~1/4" oversize). With a flush trim router bit, we trimmed each side piece to the final shape using the side template as a guide in order to create identical sides. A pass on each piece with the 1/16" slot cutting bit and we had a channel for T-molding. Check out this lineup! The rest of the prep was table saw and circular saw work. At the end of the day we had quite a collection of MDF in the shop, but no cabinet just yet.

On Sunday, we returned to Chad's to begin assembly, We glued and screwed 1 x 2 stock as framing pieces to support the front and rear panels. We ended up with one of the units assembled to about ~90% completion. This was a lot more fun than the cutting as the arcade began to take shape. Humphrey's friend showed up with some material and traced out two sets of panels so that he and a friend can build a couple more units on their own.

We will be returning on the 22nd for day 3 to complete the assembly of the remaining units. In the mean time, I will be working on the control panel layout so that we will be ready to build that piece. The plan is for a 2 player console very similar to Dave's with a joystick and 6 buttons, plus a trackball in the middle (I sure could use that pic of your console Dave). Then we will take all the cabinets up to the paint room at my workplace and spray them black.

Overall, we are pleased with how they're shaping up!

...and it looks like the arcade will be ready in time for my wife's BD on the 2nd of November!
post #1020 of 1248
It looks like you guys made great progress... that's a lot of cabinets! They're gonna look great.

I wrapped up my own MAME project over the weekend. Instead of a cabinet, I built a pair of controllers.



The boxes are built out of 1/4" MDF painted black with Rustoleum Hammered spraypaint. The bottoms of the boxes are permanently attached. The control panels are made of 5/8" dark-gray shelving material. They lower into the top of the box and rest on little rails mounted on the inside of the box. They are gravity/friction fit (and quite snug). This means there are no fasteners at all.

Did you ever use one of those old Nintendo arcade style controllers? Well, they sucked bigtime. They weren't big and heavy enough, so any kind of enthusiastic movement of the joystick simply moved the whole controller unless you had it nailed to a table. That's why I built these things so insanely oversized. If you put it on your lap, you have a very solid, stable base for joystick waggling and button pounding. No nails required.

Each controller has a DB-25 cable coming out of it. 15 pins would have done the trick, but I wanted some degree of future-proofing in case I later decided to add more buttons or perhaps a trackball or spinner. They each plug into a little "junction box" that contains the KeyWiz PS/2 dealie. That, in turn, plugs into a computer that's connected to the TV (s-video output on the video card). I got tired of woodworking, so the junction box is just a plastic Radio Shack style project box.

Anyway, it works great! Big thanks to Dave for helping me out!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home