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My Exodus Tempest X-2 build

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Well I finally got around to starting my Exodus Tempest X-2 project, I'm using 3/4" MDF board and will be wrapping it in oak but first I wanted to get the shell started and finished to make sure I was happy with the sound.  This is a slotted port design I found of hometheatershack.com that was from the Exodus dealer, it is a tad over 5 cubic feet (5.1 to their specs).  The sub will be firing downward as I plan on making this look like an end table in the end, the legs will bring the sub off the floor about 3-4".  It will be run off of a Behringer EP1500.  I will update pictures at the progress continues. 



My daughter thinks it's a playhouse for the time being.



Hopefully tomorrow I will be done with the shell and have it all caulked up and ready for wire.  I'm still not sure how I should run the speaker wire or what is recommended, either some type of terminal in the box or just drill a hole small enough and run a direct line from the amp to the sub and just caulk it, any suggestions would be helpful here.  I have a terminal I could use and being that the sub will be down firing, you'll never see it.
post #2 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCcobra4me View Post

Well I finally got around to starting my Exodus Tempest X-2 project, I'm using 3/4" MDF board and will be wrapping it in oak but first I wanted to get the shell started and finished to make sure I was happy with the sound.  This is a slotted port design I found of hometheatershack.com that was from the Exodus dealer, it is a tad over 5 cubic feet (5.1 to their specs)......I'm still not sure how I should run the speaker wire or what is recommended, either some type of terminal in the box or just drill a hole small enough and run a direct line from the amp to the sub and just caulk it, any suggestions would be helpful here.  I have a terminal I could use and being that the sub will be down firing, you'll never see it.
If this is a slot port design, where is the port on your box?   Terminal vs. wire = no difference in sound.  None.  Nada.  Zilch.  Do whatever you want to do and feel confident that the other way isn't any better or worse.
post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
The port is coming, I have to round the edges of the port to try and eliminate port huff.  I will have more pictures up tonight. 
post #4 of 13
Thread Starter 
Made some progress today, added the port and was able to finish up the shell. 



Sitting next to my currently used 12" 300 watt Cerwin Vega


post #5 of 13
Thread Starter 
Wired up....

and ready to go, just need to wait for my Behringer to show up (Jan. 5th hopefully).
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 

Made some progress on the transformation towards the end table look, I had to wait for the amp to show up and make sure everything worked and sounded as it should.  My impression on the performance......My wife's impression......!!!  

Ok, so I don't have some of the tools that are required so I have to wing it a little. 



Next I plan on staining the sides and should have the legs done by this weekend. 

post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 


Put a little color on it, will be getting the legs ready tonight. 
post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
Got the legs on, next to come are some trim pieces. I'm still not sure exactly how I want to do the top.  Ideally I want granite but not willing to pay that much for it so I'm probably just going to put a solid piece of oak up top. 

post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Trim pieces are on.  Minus a little sanding yet and some touch up staining, all I need is the top.  And for what it's worth, the output on this box was completely ridiculous when it was laying on it's side near a corner, now that the sub is firing down the way it should be with the legs on and is in a corner, it got worse....I mean better!!  I want to thank Robert_J for all his help during this process, I couldn't be happier with the way it turned out. 


Edited by SCcobra4me - 1/17/10 at 6:38pm
post #10 of 13
That is my favorite style of sub/furniture.  It blends in with the room until you crank the volume.

What are you going to use on the top?  I saw a similar DIY sub recently that used a granite top.  As a remnant of a larger kitchen install it wasn't that expensive.
post #11 of 13
Thread Starter 
I called and checked out a few stores and one wanted $295 for a remnant of granite??  Menards wanted $153 for a coutertop with the granite look, I'm not looking to spend that much on the top and will probably just end up with a solid oak top with a routed edge. 
post #12 of 13
Do you have a link to the plans you used?  I'm getting the itch to add another sub, and would like to do something along these lines with the Dayton 15.
post #13 of 13
John,
I know that Ryan picked an alignment that was recommended by the manufacturer in this document - http://www.diycable.com/main/pdf/TX2Apps.pdf.  If you need help with an alignment for your Dayton 15 (Dayton does make more than one 15" driver) then start a new thread.  As for plans, I think that Ryan did what all other DIYers do, you start with an enclosure volume and work your way backwards to dimensions and then actual panel sizes.  Again, if you start your own thread I'll assist you from start to finish.
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