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DIY Subwoofer Enclosure Help

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Id like to build an enclosure for a sub in my room. My room is 14x14 with a 9 foot ceiling. I mostly listen to hip-hop some reggaeton and play video games.
The driver i bought is a Dayton RSS315-HF4.
The Specs of this driver are found at : http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-464s.pdf
Can i have the outer dimensions, know if vented or sealed is better for this driver, and port dimensions (size, length).
Im going to purchase this plate amp : http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-750.
Until then can this driver be powered by the amp in this sub? : http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-635

P.S. I tryed using Winisd but, due to my limited knowledge i was unable to get this information(as you can see).

Edited by Nemesis93 - 10/24/09 at 7:54pm
post #2 of 17
Goals?  Or at least percentage of home theater vs. music.
post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Thank you for responding to my post
Music 80%
Home Theater 20%
I would like clean deep bass
post #4 of 17
How large of a box/cylinder can you live with?

I don't recommend using an amp from an OEM sub.  You don't know the EQ that is built into that amp and it can have a negative impact on the performance of the DIY sub.  If you are lucky and there is no EQ or you can adjust the EQ like the other Dayton amps via a resistor swap, you will only gain about 2db of additional output by going with the BASH amp.
post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 
The Box can be as large as it needs to be. So your saying that the BASH amp is not worth it? If so can i have some recommendations on a plate amp and the enclosure specifications?

post #6 of 17
I'd recommend a sealed enclosure, only because it would be much easier to build. 
I took some acoustics courses in college and if I understood and remember the physics correctly you would need to be much more precise in your construction with a ported, or vented box to see a real benefit.
post #7 of 17
Thread Starter 
Ok so ported would be best but sealed would be much easier to construct? Can i have to some specs and some tips on making the box
post #8 of 17


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemesis93 View Post

The Box can be as large as it needs to be. So your saying that the BASH amp is not worth it? If so can i have some recommendations on a plate amp and the enclosure specifications?

 
The BASH amp is nice.  The amp on your current sub is the unknown factor.  If it does not have any built-in EQ or the built-in EQ can be changed, then there is only a slight gain to be had by going with the BASH.  If you aren't comfortable in de-soldering and changing resistors in your current amp, then there is a HUGE gain by going with the BASH because in its out of the box configuration it will work great.

post #9 of 17


Quote:
Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post

I'd recommend a sealed enclosure, only because it would be much easier to build. 
I took some acoustics courses in college and if I understood and remember the physics correctly you would need to be much more precise in your construction with a ported, or vented box to see a real benefit.
 
Construction of ported and sealed enclosures are exactly the same.  Ported requires that you cut an additional hole for the port.  Design is also the same in complexity.  You just have to match up the design with the goals.

post #10 of 17


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemesis93 View Post

Ok so ported would be best but sealed would be much easier to construct? Can i have to some specs and some tips on making the box
 
Construct the 85L enclosure in this document - http://web.archive.org/web/20021005114753/www.adireaudio.com/Files/VentedShivaApplications.PDF

post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 
Can the sub be front firing? I like leaving the grill off for looks.
post #12 of 17
The sub can be any orientation or shape that you want as long as you get a net 85L.  You asked for specs and tips on the box so I gave you the easiest method possible.
post #13 of 17
Thread Starter 
Oh Ok Thank you So much for your help! Next time to know how big the box has to be i just check on the Vas in the specifications.
post #14 of 17


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemesis93 View Post

Next time to know how big the box has to be i just check on the Vas in the specifications.
 

No.  Vas is the following:
Vas/Cms   Vas represents the volume of air that when compressed to one cubic meter exerts the same force as the compliance (Cms) of the suspension in a particular speaker. Vas is one of the trickiest parameters to measure because air pressure changes relative to humidity and temperature — a precisely controlled lab environment is essential. Cms is measured in meters per Newton. Cms is the force exerted by the mechanical suspension of the speaker. It is simply a measurement of its stiffness. Considering stiffness (Cms), in conjunction with the Q parameters gives rise to the kind of subjective decisions made by car manufacturers when tuning cars between comfort to carry the president and precision to go racing. Think of the peaks and valleys of audio signals like a road surface then consider that the ideal speaker suspension is like car suspension that can traverse the rockiest terrain with race-car precision and sensitivity at the speed of a fighter plane. It’s quite a challenge because focusing on any one discipline tends to have a detrimental effect on the others. 
post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 
Oh one last question. Where Can i buy a 5.5in Flared Port Tube? At parts-express i only see 4" or 6" port tubes which i cant buy because with the 4" port ill probably have some port noise since the min diameter is 5.28". And what do i use to make the port longer?
post #16 of 17
The Adire design calls for a 3" flared port from PSP-Inc.  You order them from PE or Thriller Audio (the retail side of PSP).

Noise won't be a problem since the Shiva had more output than your Dayton and Dan Wiggins thought a 3" flared port was enough.  Dan has more sub knowledge in his little finger than I will ever have.
post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 
Ok Thanks
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