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replacement sub woofer

post #1 of 12
7/16/09 at 8:47am
Thread Starter 
Hello,
I have a JBL scs 145.5   5.1 surround system that I originally paid about $350.00 for. The sub woofer is now making a squeal type sound, and I've been advised that it's probably not worth repairing. ( repair cost being more than it's probably worth).

 I really have been happy with this low priced JBL system. What would you recomend for a replacement sub for hopefully $100-$150  that would be campatable with whats left of the JBL system, and would be similar in performance to the 100 watt, 8" jbl sub that is dying? 
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post #2 of 12
7/16/09 at 6:08pm
There are a few good choices for subs that would probably match the quality of the JBL.  Take a look at this site.

http://www.onecall.com/ProductSearch.aspx?viewall=1&N=2349&Ns=p_CartPrice%7c0

The Boston, Sony, and Polk seem like good buys.  My brother actually has the 12" sony and it really puts out some bass.  This might be too big compared to your last one though, u might want to stay with an 8" or 10" especially since your satalite speakers are small, you want the bass unit to contribute some of the higher mid bass tones.  I think Sony makes an 8" and a 10" that are less than 100 dollars.

http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1247792323/ref=sr_st?rs=172568&page=1&bbn=172568&rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A667846011%2Cn%3A172563%2Cn%3A172568%2Cp_36%3A5000-15099&sort=pmrank





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post #3 of 12
7/16/09 at 8:53pm
 check out the dayton subs at partsexpress.com.  good for their price points, 8-12" models avail.  not junk at all.  you will want to check that you are not crossed over too low so you're not missing mid bass in the low 100hz region.
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post #4 of 12
7/16/09 at 8:54pm
 oops.. accidental click....
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post #5 of 12
7/17/09 at 5:48am
Thread Starter 
How do I check the crossover?
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post #6 of 12
7/17/09 at 8:49am
When you get your replacement sub there will be a knob on the back of it for crossover frequency.  Most have an adjustable crossover from 40 to 140 Hz.  You ideally want to set this close to where your front speakers leave off.  Like max said for this system you probably want to set it somewhere in the low 100 Hz area.  But once you get it and hook it up, play something you are familiar with and see what sounds best. 
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post #7 of 12
7/17/09 at 3:08pm
Thread Starter 
Does that only apply to subs with no lfe input? Speaking of that I think I read that if no lfe you can just plug your cable into the left channel input in the back panel of the sub. Is that correct?
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post #8 of 12
7/17/09 at 3:54pm
If your receiver has a subwoofer output, like they almost all have had for a dozen years, one would usually disable the crossover on the sub, leave it turned all the way up if it can't be defeated.  Some subs have an "LFE input" which bypasses the crossover.

The crossover on the receiver already reduces subwoofer output above some (usually settable in the receiver setup menu) frequency.  You don't need the subwoofer crossover as well; cascading them would make the output drop faster and maybe not get the intended blend between sub & main speaker output in the overlapping region.  For small satellites like this system, the receiver setting should be fairly high (at least 120, maybe 150/160 hz)

The crossover setting on the sub is for situations where you have an old stereo receiver or the like, that doesn't have a crossed-over sub output, when you are running full-range signal off a main pre-out or speaker-level out.
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post #9 of 12
7/20/09 at 8:08am
Thread Starter 
thanks for the information. My only other question has to do with the LFE input jack. Some of the subs don't seem to have a dedicated LFE jack. As my received does have it how do I connect a sub without LFE plug to my receiver?
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post #10 of 12
7/20/09 at 8:16am
It has been years since I have seen a sub without  a line input (unless it was a passive sub).  It may not be labled LFE but as long as it has RCA jacks for inputs, you are OK.  Connect your LFE to either the right or left and it will work.  Others may tell you to use a Y adapter to connect your LFE to both inputs but that is not necessary.  If you pull the sub amp from the cabinet you will find that both the R and L inputs are summed after entering the amp.

-Robert
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post #11 of 12
7/20/09 at 11:30am
Thread Starter 
thanks Robert_J
that makes me feel more confident about buying what I think i want.
I have narrowed the search down to Dayton at partexpress http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=300-633&ctab=13#Tabs
 
and the speaker company http://www.thespeakercompany.com/ASW-10-10-Subwoofer-P62.aspx

Please take at look at these and tell me what you think.

thanks again for all the input
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post #12 of 12
7/20/09 at 12:44pm
I would choose the Dayton based on the reputation of PE alone.  I've been buying speaker building parts from them going back to the late '80's.

-Robert
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