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Why do speaker selectors have such low power limits? What's one with high limits?

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
As far as I know a simple manual A/B speaker selector box should be a very simple device mechanically/electrically speaking... a pair of conductive input contacts that physically slide from one pair of outputting contacts to another pair depending on which way you have the switch.

And yet every single one I've come across so far has a power rating between 100 watts per channel and 250 watts per channel... some even have minimum resistance ratings of 4ohms???

Maybe these things don't work like I thought they worked... maybe they're more complicated?

Here's the thing. I've got the main L&R channel of my Emotiva 5 channel amp that I'd like to send to an A/B speaker selector box. If I set it on 'A' then the L&R channel play as part of my home theater. If select B then the power is diverted to a speaker cable power distribution block and then distributed to several pairs of speakers I have all over the house.

The problem with this is that
-100 watts is nowhere near enough to play several pairs of speakers as loud as I want to during a party.
-250 watts may be close to enough for most circumstances, but my XPA 5 is rated at 450 watts RMS per channel at 4 ohms when only 2 channels are being driven, so I'd be really limiting my potential/headroom. Even so, the limit still concerns me, and the only one I've found that's 250 watts is also pretty expensive ($150-200) and has 4 pairs of outputs when I only need 2.
-The very fact that these things have limits in the first place has me wondering how they might be limiting or otherwise affecting the quality of sound getting to my speakers down the line.

I don't play the whole house system that often so if I have to I'll just manually swap the speaker wires when I need to swap off and then eventually buy a dedicated 2 channel amp... but for the sake of convenience and saving money I figured this would be a cheap and easy solution.

Anyone have any suggestions here?
post #2 of 5
Thread Starter 

Re: Why do speaker selectors have such low power limits? What's one with high limits?

After reading around a bit more it appears maybe they have power limits because they do some sort of resistance/load matching? But I don't understand why they do since I think (??) most of them only allow you to play one pair at a time, or at least that's all I want to do.

For what it's worth I don't need any sort of resistance matching... I have adjustable resistance matching volume controls sitting at every pair of speakers so I make my overall effective load on my amp about 4 ohms by using those.
post #3 of 5

Re: Why do speaker selectors have such low power limits? What's one with high limits?

Some speaker-selectors do load-matching, so that your amp always "sees" the same load, be it A, B, or A+B.

If you want to do it, there's no reason you can't build your own ABCDEFG box without too much trouble, cost, or anything like that, although it wouldn't do load-matching... go to the local home parts store, and buy a big electrical box, and install a whole bunch of light switches... Or go to an electrical parts store, and get some DPDT or DPST switches, depending on what you're trying to do. I don't recommend trying to get QPDT or QPST switches -- they tend to be outrageously expensive.

Leo
post #4 of 5
Thread Starter 

Re: Why do speaker selectors have such low power limits? What's one with high limits?

Just wanted to update everyone that I found a decent solution.
Niles Audio DPS-1 in Speaker Selectors at JR.com

It's just a simple switch... it's either A or B, not both, which is exactly what I was looking for.

Niles Audio Corporation

Probably will take more than that but they just rate it conservatively.
post #5 of 5

Re: Why do speaker selectors have such low power limits? What's one with high limits?

Gents,
I have an issue with speaker selectors. Like KyleT, I am running multiple zones in my home and having trouble getting the right performace from my speakers. I have a 120w Marantz receiver wired into a Niles Audio SSVC-4 Speaker Selector (rated at 100W) and I am getting volume surging while playing music. I know this is not good, and I have ceased using my system until I take the Niles unit out.
I looked at Niles' higher power units (which I think would solve the surging condition), but they don't have volume controls. I read about KyleT's "speaker cable power distribution block" but don't know what that is. Would that be a possible solution? My goal is to have three zones of volume-contolable speakers. Each zone is running small pairs of speakers (ie Bose 201's)
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