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Best way to preserve Projection Bulb Life?

post #1 of 6
2/17/09 at 1:46pm
Thread Starter 
I realize the best way is : to turn off the TV when not in use,,
I have a Sony Wega 46" LCD model KDF46E2000 rear projection (Hidef 16x9)television. I understand I 'may' get up to 6000 hours of life out of the bulb, (XL2400 )., or less or more.... .
I also know that turning the TV 'on and off' within minutes is hard on the bulb, so I try very hard not to 'TIVO' any programs unless the TV is already on, (or the show to be recorded is very very important.,.)

So my question would be around the area of what I have been experimenting with lately and wanted some feedback from others who are more expertise in this area. :

Should I input my 'tuner' to an area that is turned off ( i.e. DVD player) that would then 'create a black screen' with the lettering in the upper corner that would say i.e. Video 3 . ... I'm also aware that leaving these letters on the screen 'could' burn an image in the LCD monitor., but for an hour or so, it shouldn't be a problem.,
or should I turn off the Tivo unit which then makes the screen go black and I have no lettering at this point ( plus I can't record), Would I get more hours out of my bulb by these methods or does it NOT matter.., the bulb would still be getting power or not????
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post #2 of 6
2/17/09 at 2:25pm

Re: Best way to preserve Projection Bulb Life?

Turning bulbs of any kind on and off reduces their hours of life and should be limited, within reason. The DLP, LCD and LCOS rear and front projection bulbs normally have a life span of 4000 - 6000 hours and cost hundreds of dollars to replace. It is important to use caution when determining where to place RPTV sets.

RPTV's require 4 - 6 inches of clearance from the wall behind the set. If there is a furnace register nearby make sure the TV has plenty of clearance to avoid a heat buildup. The bulbs themselves generate heat and most RPTV's include a built-in fan to cool the TV.

When I purchased my 55" Philips LCOS 4 years ago I also obtained a replacement bulb. The bulb itself is small and sits in a housing, similar to a car headlight. for Philips RPTV's you can purchase just the bulb ($100+) rather than buying the complete assembly ($270-350) to reduce replacement costs. It is very easy to remove the bulb from the housing and add a new one. When doing the job you should wear gloves so your hands never touch the new bulb which could reduce it's life span.

LCD's are normally not subject to burn-in as CRT and Plasma sets are. I believe Plasma manufacturers have taken steps to prevent burn-in for newer sets. What does your manual state about burn-in? If the manual does not cover burn-in you could call Sony customer service for advise.
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post #3 of 6
2/17/09 at 3:06pm

Re: Best way to preserve Projection Bulb Life?

An alternative suggestion might be to add a second, inexpensive LCD monitor -- about 9" or so that is used only for programming devices without turning on the main screen.

Not sure if it makes economic sense, but it's a possibility.

Leo
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post #4 of 6
2/17/09 at 3:10pm

Re: Best way to preserve Projection Bulb Life?

I learned that when the TV is on, it should stay on at least an hour...perhaps more. And that you should wait at least a half an hour before turning it back on again.
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post #5 of 6
2/22/09 at 6:28am

Re: Best way to preserve Projection Bulb Life?

(1. If/when the set or projector is turned off, wait a half hour before turning it back on.)

2. Use the set's remote, not a power strip or wall switch, to turn it on and off. The fan needs to run the full cycle to make sure the bulb is cooled down.

3. Use the "low" bulb setting if there is one.

4. The set cooling air intake should not be pulling air from near a hot radiator or heating duct.

Intuitively I would guess that light material on the screen means less stress on the tiny panels or imaging elements in a projector compared with dark material. The opposite of wear and tear on CRT or plasma phosphors.
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post #6 of 6
2/22/09 at 5:28pm

Re: Best way to preserve Projection Bulb Life?

As an aside for Allan's last intuitive speculation, "some yes, some no."

If it's LCD, it's more likely to be true. If it's DLP or LCoS/DILA, then it doesn't particularly matter.

On the other hand, with LCD, the panel is chopping 50% of the light energy anyway (the polarizer,) so I don't know how significant this really gets. On the other hand, I'd never recommend an LCD unit for architectural use.

Leo
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