New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

My summertime DIY project. - Page 2

post #31 of 46
6/4/08 at 11:46am

Re: My summertime DIY project.

The stock filter on the amp starts rolling off at 3db/octave starting at 30hz. That should be fine.

That is quite a large box for a 10" sub. I'm sure the 12" Dayton will work in it. The DVC 12" will as well and I think they are on sale.

-Robert
Reply
post #32 of 46
6/4/08 at 8:20pm
Thread Starter 

Re: My summertime DIY project.

Alright, the DVC gives just as much output, but it's not as flat (The DVC is extremely efficient, using 1/4 the power to get the same amount of output):

Parts Express: Dayton SD315-88 12" Shielded DVC Subwoofer

Parts Express: Dayton SA70 70W Subwoofer Amplifier





I think that's pretty good, for nearly half the price of the reference, I can get just as much output, just not as flat.

By the way, I tried modeling it sealed... Didn't go too great.
Reply
post #33 of 46
6/5/08 at 10:50pm
Thread Starter 

Re: My summertime DIY project.

Would the displacement of the driver and amp be enough to make a noticeable difference? Or would I be fine just building a 2'x1'x2.5' internal dimensioned enclosure and using the port size recommended by WinISD?

Edit:

I calculated that if the driver and amp took up .5 cubic feet, and I used the port size recommended by WinISD for the 20Hz at 5ft^3, it would raise my tuning to 21Hz, not making all that much of a difference.
Reply
post #34 of 46
6/6/08 at 9:32am

Re: My summertime DIY project.

I didn't mean the shielded DVC 12. The other DVC 12.

Amp and driver will take up no more than .2 cubic feet.

-Robert
Reply
post #35 of 46
6/7/08 at 10:03pm
Thread Starter 

Re: My summertime DIY project.

They must have discontinued the regular non-shielded one. I can't find it on PE.

Does it have the same specs at the non-shielded one? 'Cuz if it doesn't I'm going to need to remodel it again, and buy it from a different place.

EDIT:

Never mind, found it. Tried modeling it, with pretty good results.

Parts Express: Dayton DVC310-88 12" DVC Series Subwoofer
Parts Express: Bash 300W Digital Subwoofer Amplifier





I modeled it with a 20Hz High-pass filter.


It would work without reaching XMax at 400 watts, but there's no 400 watt amp on Parts Express.
Reply
post #36 of 46
6/9/08 at 7:33am

Re: My summertime DIY project.

I'm building a 4cf, 20hz Fb sonosub with that driver right now. It will be going into a family member's house.

No need to push the driver to its limits. You will get more than enough bass from using a 300w amp. The additional 100w (if there were a 400w amp) would be wasted because you will very rarely turn it up that loud. The difference in output would be about 1db both at full volume.

-Robert
Reply
post #37 of 46
6/9/08 at 9:43pm
Thread Starter 

Re: My summertime DIY project.

Make sure to take a few pictures of it for me, and a detailed review, to help me to determine whether I want this driver or not.

Thanks for the help.
Reply
post #38 of 46
6/10/08 at 4:24am

Re: My summertime DIY project.

It is a clone of the Adire Audio Shiva. Search the archives here for reviews. It has been a tried and true sub that was introduced about 10 years ago.

-Robert
Reply
post #39 of 46
6/11/08 at 10:54pm
Thread Starter 

Re: My summertime DIY project.

Hey Rob, do you know of any enclosure modeling software? I want to print out the plans for this because I'm going to be making the enclosure over at my uncles house (he builds cabinets, he has the tools).

I was thinking 1'W x 2'H x 2.5'D Internal chamber with a 1.5"H x 12"W x 1.7'D Port tuned to 20Hz. That should give me an internal volume of about 5 cubic feet, minus driver and amp displacement.

EDIT:

Something along the lines of this:



I may not be able to flush-mount it, but is that a necessity, or just optional?
Reply
post #40 of 46
6/14/08 at 6:56am

Re: My summertime DIY project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyg2
Hey Rob, do you know of any enclosure modeling software?
Enclosure "modeling" software is WinISD and Unibox. Do you want something like a CAD program that will give you a set of blueprints? Not going to find one. This is where you develop your box building skills. With the diagram you already have, you are very close.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyg2
I may not be able to flush-mount it, but is that a necessity, or just optional?
Flush mounting is required on 99% of full range speakers. It is not required on subs.

Looking at your design I see a few things. First, you don't need a bend in your port. Remove the 2 pieces of wood at the end of your port. Your port will function exactly the same. Second, your measurements are for internal only. Modify them to show the length of each piece of wood used. Then download CutList Plus free version. Enter the measurements of the 7 pieces of wood that will be used to build your box. That will give you an idea of how much MDF will be required as well as the most efficient way to cut the parts.

-Robert
Reply
post #41 of 46
6/14/08 at 8:30pm
Thread Starter 

Re: My summertime DIY project.

Would removing the wood at the end of the port make up for the amp/driver/bracing displacement? How should I go about bracing this, just with a few cross members of MDF going through the middle?

EDIT:

Anyways, I tried modeling other similarly priced drivers, just to see if the Dayton was my best bet. I used the same amount of power (300W) unless otherwise stated, along with the same 5ft^3 enclosure. Here's my findings:

Elemental Designs 13Kv.2



(still had 2mm left until excursion was met, used a 20Hz Highpass)

Mach 5 MJ-18



(this was modeled using 500W with a 20Hz Highpass and a 25Hz tune)

And, that's pretty much all I can find in the $100-$150 price range... I still think the DAyton is my best bet, do you agree?
Reply
post #42 of 46
6/15/08 at 6:49am

Re: My summertime DIY project.

The Dayton has a 5 year warranty and a proven home theater track record.

The ED subs are very good. I've read reports of people using them for years with no issues. Others have them die out of the box. Support is pretty good. There are a few ED haters but that goes back to the early days and some questionable business practices from the owner. I have used ED subs in the past but they were built by TC Sounds.

The MJ-18 needs a massive box to reach its full potential. Most buy them in 4 packs and install in IB subs.

-Robert
Reply
post #43 of 46
6/15/08 at 5:14pm
Thread Starter 

Re: My summertime DIY project.

So, stay with the Dayton?

I'm going to probably be ordering the driver and amp next week after that paycheck, that way I can build the enclosure while the driver and amp is being shipped out to me, so it's just a matter of putting the driver in the hole, screwing it in, turning it on and playing some test tones.

Thanks for the help, it's very much appreciated.
Reply
post #44 of 46
6/16/08 at 5:31am

Re: My summertime DIY project.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbyg2
So, stay with the Dayton?
Yes.
Reply
post #45 of 46
6/20/08 at 6:04pm
Thread Starter 

Re: My summertime DIY project.

Just a random, wild question, is there any other options besides Sealed, ported, IB, and passive radiator subwoofers?
Reply
post #46 of 46
6/21/08 at 4:49am

Re: My summertime DIY project.

A ported and PR box are really the same. The PR just replaces the port. Both the PR and port are Hemholtz Radiators.

A sealed and IB are the same as well. It's just that the IB is so large, the enclosure has no effect on the driver.

DIY Subwoofers - check the left side of the site for bandpass, TL and dipole subs.

-Robert
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home