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Help connecting Yamaha Sub NXSW120

post #1 of 14
10/13/06 at 12:55am
Thread Starter 
Hello everyone

This is my first post !

I am trying to connect the above woofer (which a friend gave me for free) to my PC.

It has 2 connectors, and it is powered. There is an RCA female, and, what looks to me like - a female mini headphone jack

RCA is marked "Input"
Mini jack marked "System connector"


First I put music on at the PC.......

I have powered pc speakers running off the headphone output on my PC.


So I unplugged these, and connected a cable - mini headphone on one side and 2 RCA males on the other side. I now plugged the woofer into power, and now I connected one of the male RCAs into the input of the woofer.

There was no sound from the woofer, so I tried the other RCA male, plugged into "input".

But I get no sound from the woofer. Of course, my cable could be faulty !


But I really think I need to "tell" the woofer something with that "system connector".

I paid for, and downloaded the manual, but that didnt help me, all I see is to connect the "system connector" to the system connector on the back of the DVD/Receiver .

Does anyone know what the woofer "expects" on that system connector ?

Is it just used for the DVD/Receiver to send a signal to power it on/off?Does anyone know how get the woofer to come on by itself? Maybe there is a dongle or something I could connect?

Any help/suggestions appreciated.
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post #2 of 14
10/13/06 at 5:17am
Thread Starter 

Re: Help connecting Yamaha Sub NXSW120

Have now tried bridging a mini headphone jack, thinking it might just be open/closed signal that comes from the Receiver. When I connect that to "system connector", still nothing happens.

I only hope it doesnt need some "clever" signal on there to start up :-(
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post #3 of 14
10/16/06 at 1:27am
Thread Starter 

Re: Help connecting Yamaha Sub NXSW120

bump....

anyone, please? Or do I need to open the box now, see what's inside and try and figure out how to turn this thing on! ?
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post #4 of 14
3/18/10 at 4:46pm
I'm dredging this up from the deep in the hope that someone has an answer, I'm in the same position and want to know if there's a solution before I perform Sub-surgery and open it up! 
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post #5 of 14
6/15/10 at 7:31am

I have one of these systems so I measured the volts on the line.  It is 12V when on, +ve at the tip, ground on the body of the plug.  If that signal does not work I'll get the scope out to see what is going on but my hunch is it's just a straight on/off 12V DC. 

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post #6 of 14
6/21/10 at 5:09pm

Your right Brian, the sub is activated by a 12v relay. 

I've since taken mine apart and use a 240v-12v adaptor to switch it.

I have taken pictures and will get round to putting them up now I've finished Uni for the summer.

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post #7 of 14
12/23/10 at 3:47pm

Can anyone explain how to do this?  I'm having the same issue.  

 

Thanks!

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post #8 of 14
12/28/10 at 3:05am

Turns out my Summer was a lot busier than I expected!

 

I have a large number of pictures on how I did this but I'm away from home until the new year, I'll put them up when I get back. I promise! blush.gif

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post #9 of 14
12/29/10 at 4:15pm

Awesome!  

 

Thanks Joe!

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post #10 of 14
12/31/10 at 12:16pm

I recently upgraded my system to a new Denon 591 receiver and wanted to use the old Yahama subwoofer while I save up for a new one.  All I did to get this to work was use a 12V DC adapter from my spare parts box (one of those with a plug on it, it only has a transformer and rectified in it).  IIts off-load voltage was 13.1V DC.  It was the wrong plug on the adapter so I cut the output wire, cut the old control cable from the Yahama which has a 2.5 mm plug on it, and soldered the two together.  Plugged this into the subwoofer and powered the adapter.  Worked fine and took about 15 minutes to do.

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post #11 of 14
1/3/11 at 3:08am

 

Ok here we go:

Disclaimer;

It’s a litigious world we live in these days so…

I take no responsibility for any damage/loss arising from this post, the post is intended as a record of what I have done to my own property and should not be used as a guide.

I'm from the UK where the domestic supply voltage is the European standard of 230 V (CENELEC Harmonization Document HD 472 S1:1988). Take this in to account when reading the post.

 

With that out of the way;

I left the Sub switched off for a few days before I got round to open it up, I’m allergic to electric shocks so I go out of my way to avoid them smiley_wink.gif

 

I started by testing the relay activation voltage, the voltage shown on the bench supply (7.3v) was the minimum voltage required to activate it.

Once activated the voltage could drop to around 3v before it switched off.

voltage_relay_test_RS.jpg

 

This is the relay it was switching;

 

relay_RS.jpg

 

I opened a 12v adaptor I had lying around;

 

adaptor_RS.jpg

 

The adaptor was wired in to the supply voltage, it looks quite agricultural but all the adaptor components are isolated;

 

adaptor_installed_RS.jpg

 

I de-soldered the jack on the input board and marked the polarity;

 

inputboard_RS.jpg

 

Then soldered the adaptor wires on to the input board and covered the jack hole;

 

jackwiring_RS.jpg

 

That's it, the sub has been working well, I'm thinking about opening it up again and adding a switch to the adaptor so the sub can be turned off via a switch rather than the plug.

I'd like to be able to make it auto switching but don't currently have the know-how or time to do it.

 

Hope this helps anyone with the same problem.

Joesmile.gif

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post #12 of 14
3/23/11 at 4:21pm

Hi Joe,

 

Thank you very much for the explanation and pictures.

 

I have the same problems and am using an external 12V DC adaptor with a mini jack to activate the subwoofer. The adaptor is plugged into the back of the Amp so it activates the sub when the Amp is shwitched on.

 

Unfortunately I have another problem. The subwoofer only give a loud humm when switched on. I noticed that when I connect the - of the 12 Volt DC adaptor to the oudside (-) of the AMP connector the humm disapper and the Sub works (but still not 100%).

 

Do you have any idea what's wrong?

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post #13 of 14
3/28/11 at 2:46pm

I'm far from an expert with electronics (I'm a motorsport engineering student) so I can't be much help. 

From my own experience humming is most likely from earth problems or running power cables in-line with audio cables.

Check these links for more info;

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/search.php?search=earth+hum

 

http://www.technicaladvice.co.uk/sound_system_advice/how_to_get_rid_of_hum

 

http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/

 

http://www.suite101.com/content/how-to-solve-ground-loop-hum-in-hi-fi-systems-a184875

 

I hope these help, please take care when dealing with any home electrics and if in doubt call the experts in, they get paid to get shockedeek.gif

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post #14 of 14
10/30/11 at 4:06pm
Thanks for your great walkthrough Joe, it helped a lot.

However, like Valentijn, I also experienced a hum afterwards.

I've not had any luck with tracing the earth loop fault, so I've tried something else instead. I've soldered in a jumper cable to bypass the relay. I've used a couple of existing (but unused) terminals on the PCB- points W11A & W12A (right beside the relay).

Am I missing something or is this really a much simpler way of making it work?
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