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How's this?

post #1 of 11
10/5/04 at 9:24pm
Thread Starter 
I haven't been on here or into DIY Audio for almost a year now, a lot of things have changed in my life lol...but my friend is getting his car audio going and I reccomended this:

Driver:
http://www.oaudio.com/TC2_PLUS.html

Amp (not the best but he's on a budget):
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=267-054

And then we are going to make the box ourselves like I did with my old sub (which is gone now ) out of 3/4" MDF, then wood glue and some polyfill....

Some questions though...is that amp a good enough match for that driver? Powerful enough you know? I'm betting it is, the PE Amp for my tempest was definitely good enough...

And one last, important one...

How do you correctly wire the DVC sub from a 1 channel source to make the power into 2ohms instead of 4? Isn't it like this:

Amplifier NEGATIVE into Voice Coil 1 NEGATIVE into Voice Coil 2 POSITIVE
Amplifier POSITIVE into Voice Coil 1 POSITIVE into Voice Col 2 NEGATIVE

So you run one voice coil normal, and swap the other one right?
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post #2 of 11
10/6/04 at 1:48am
Quote:
Amplifier NEGATIVE into Voice Coil 1 NEGATIVE into Voice Coil 2 POSITIVE
Amplifier POSITIVE into Voice Coil 1 POSITIVE into Voice Col 2 NEGATIVE

This would be a 2 ohm load but it would put the voice coils out of phase. Meaning while one is pushing the other would be pulling. I would imagine on a dual voice coil sub it would beat itself to death, or maybe just not move much at all.

For a 2 ohm load that is in phase you'll want to wire the voice coils like this:

Amplifier NEGATIVE into Voice Coil 1 NEGATIVE into Voice Coil 2 NEGATIVE
Amplifier POSITIVE into Voice Coil 1 POSITIVE into Voice Col 2 POSITIVE

As for how it'll sound, no idea.
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post #3 of 11
10/6/04 at 3:14am
It will sound good in theory-it has a flux shorting ring,and has measured at mfk-projects to be equal to,or less distortion than the Peerless XLS12" !
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post #4 of 11
10/6/04 at 3:46am
Ok you guys got me. Why would a sub have to voice coils? I didn't know this existed. Have I been out of the car audio game THAT long?

Give me a little schooling fellas.
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post #5 of 11
10/6/04 at 5:07am
...
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post #6 of 11
10/6/04 at 6:52am
Multiple voice coils are used for flexibility in wiring options to obtain the ohm load that best matches your amplifier.
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post #7 of 11
10/7/04 at 8:14am
Thread Starter 
Ok well can I ask you guys reccomendations on amps? Is that one listed decent? MTX = good brand IIRC...
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post #8 of 11
10/7/04 at 11:41pm
Good sub but I would pick a better anp with more poer like these 2.

http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLBP3001Z

http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLBP6001Z
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post #9 of 11
10/8/04 at 4:04pm
If you are putting this driver in a small sealed enclosure
(less than 1 cu. ft.), you will need at least 500w-600w rms at 2 ohms to get good sound out of it.

just my .02
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post #10 of 11
10/9/04 at 10:16am
If you're friend wants ear splitting bass you might want to spring for a bigger amp. But if he is looking for just nice solid bass that amp should be fine. I'm running a 10" (low end Audiobahn, not anywhere near as nice as the TC) on a cheap 140W Jensen amp and I think it does a decent job filling out the bass.

I doubt the Jensen is even putting out close to that much power either, the MTX is much more likely to meet its true specs.
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post #11 of 11
10/9/04 at 10:21am
Some drivers do require more power to sound good even at
low levels.

What size enclosure will you be using?
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