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Still Photography - Page 2

post #31 of 71
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Yes, you can get very nice 8x10s from a variety of digital cameras in the under $1000 range


Well, since we're all being so anal about the art and the craft, let me be the first to chime in and say that there is no such thing as a 'nice 8 X 10' when dealing with 35mm photography, in film or digital format.

When you get your photos developed, they come in 4X6 prints. These prints are in the correct aspect ratio (depending on the percentage of viewable area in your viewfinder) in relation to the negative painted or pixel colored when you snapped the picture. When you get these photos developed in 5X7 or 8X10 you are allowing the developer to recompose your shots by cropping your image to fit on the photo paper size that does not match the proportions of your framed image. Do you want someone else re framing the image you took the time to frame when you first took the picture? If you are enlarging your images, the only acceptable size to go to from 4X6 is to double both sides. That is to suggest 8X12, not 8X10. I would imagine that you all being Home Theater Forum enthusiasts would understand the importance of maintaining the original aspect ratio.

The answer to the question almost always resides within the person who asked the question to begin with. If you simply want to learn the basics of photography and do all of it in one summer and then leave it to the wind, digital photography is fine so long as it allows for manual adjustment of the shutter speed and aperture opening. If, however, you want to master the craft and understand the true beauty of 'painting with light' and get the best pictures possible, you'd be better suited to not touch a digital camera, ever.

Digital cameras have come a long way. They are very useful tools that many professional photographers use and probably feel they can never do without them. The digital media is easier to work with and a Godsend under some circumstances. However, There isn't a digital camera out there that can deliver the lush colors and vivid 'fifth-gear' saturation that a SLR camera can with the appropriate film loaded with a good photographer. Digital doesn't even come close. I should know, I have a Canon Eos1v and it's digital counterpart. I use them both and couldn't live without either. But I do not use them for the same things.

It's like the parable with the comparison of a vinyl album against CD. An album on a decent turntable and a new needle will walk all over any CD on the planet. The same is true of film against digital.

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For, make no mistake, film is merely storing the "bits" on celluloid instead of in numbers.

This is a huge mistake to assume this and it is also grossly inaccurate. Film is a direct impression left by the spectrum of light that comes directly from the original image stored on metal particles, a direct reflection of the image, if you will. Digital is a digital 'representation' of this image, much like a CD is a digital representation of the music as where an album is an exact cut of the music expressed in a smooth wavelength. The digital version is a series of points on a more jagged wavelength. It doesn't compare.

I'll load my Eos1v with Fuji Velvia 50 speed and shoot a colorful landscape that no digital camera can come within miles of touching. I'll load it with Kodachrome 64 and shoot an outdoor portrait of a woman's face and any digital camera owner on the planet would notice the quality gap in comparison. The fact of the matter is that digital cameras do not have the versatility of the world's richest films in various lighting conditions. And I've been proving my point time and time again to digital camera owners. The only REAL advantage a digital camera has is a marked convenience and absence of a lot of equipment to carry around. Contrast, sharpness, and image reproduction is far Superior with a SLR (single lens reflex) camera and a good quality film. Believe it.

No matter how many bits you throw into a CCD, you aren't going to make the two mediums identical, you are merely trading quality for convenience.

This is not to say that digital cameras produce bad images, for the most assuredly do not. They actually produce very nice images that are more than acceptable in today's media. My argument is that they are nowhere close to recreating the same quality that film has given us, something that is being touted here. A fantastic argument for digital cameras is also that they allow you the freedom to get the great shots because you can carry them around much easier than a boatload of SLR gear, and if you carry the camera more then you are more likely to get that great picture. There is indeed some merit to that argument.

Another thing that I hate is that because so many people are going for the quick and easy way to do things, everyone new to photography is using that MAX shit. What this means is that Kodak no longer makes Royal Gold 25 film because demand for it has slipped. It was arguably the best film in the world. Hell it's hard enough just trying to find Royal Gold 100 anymore. People, listen to me: The lower the number on the box the sharper and more vivid the final image. Stay away from 200 (because the difference in it and 400 is next to nothing, and only use 400 when it is dark out.

Is learning photography on an SLR expensive, yes, it can be, but it doesn't come close to what you shell out for your home theater. You will develop a feel for your particular camera early on and you will know how to push and pull (photo jargon) your images after a couple of rolls of shooting. The images you get in the end are indeed superior and anyone that tells you that digital is just as good is mistaken. For it is the FEEL of the finished image from an SLR that is Superior, you won't ever know what that FEEL is unless you've shot a few rolls and compared. I suggest you do just that.

Everyone has their personal favorites as far as film goes, but there is no question that the right film in the right shot on a decent SLR will always be Superior to digital.

Chris
post #32 of 71
Hey Chris, thanks for taking single, isolated quotes from my long, detailed post and trying to make me sound like I'm saying the opposite of what I'm saying. That's very polite of you.

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This is a huge mistake to assume this and it is also grossly inaccurate. Film is a direct impression left by the spectrum of light that comes directly from the original image stored on metal particles, a direct reflection of the image, if you will. Digital is a digital 'representation' of this image, much like a CD is a digital representation of the music as where an album is an exact cut of the music expressed in a smooth wavelength. The digital version is a series of points on a more jagged wavelength. It doesn't compare.

I'm at a loss here -- I don't understand how the CCD's acceptance of an electrical charge is only a representation where the silver halide's acceptance of an electrical charge (which, to simplify, bonds it to the celluloid) is not.

Both are representations of the original, but, as I said in the post you quoted, digital, at this point, is storing significantly less information. I am not talking merely of resolution, but also tonal range. One of the biggest drawbacks to digital photography, for me, is the lack of tonal detail -- however, many people appreciate this unnatural "smoothness" of the image. It is also considered a positive thing in DVD transfers by many.

As to your anal 8x10 comment, I shoot 6x7. 8x10s are the correct ratio for this format. I also agree with the posts above suggesting moving to a cheap medium format system for better images (even a cheap system will give you fantastic results compared to your 35mm stuff).

The colour prints I make from my 6x7 transparencies are better than any that have been available in the past due to digital technology. I am not some hobbyist doing work in my basement darkroom -- I am on my fifteenth year in the photographic lab industry and on the fourth of owning my own lab. I have produced Cibachromes/Ilfochromes and also done a lot of work with medium and large format internegatives, but the prints I am making now are better.

I am using a Polaroid Sprintscan 120, creating a 500+ megabyte file from my 6x7 transparency. I use Photoshop for colour correction, resizing, and whatever cropping or other adjustment I require. Then I make a print on an Epson 2200. (Our larger work is on an Epson 7500, their older 24" archival printer, but the newer 2200 is significantly better.) The resulting prints are simply stunning, and are much, much better than the best Ilfochromes I have seen for a number of reasons. First, they are far more archival. Second, I have significantly more contrast control. Third, they are sharper, not because of artificial sharpening but because a number of diffusing optical surfaces (the most destructive one being the paper's surface layer) have been eliminated. If I am not careful, the images can be unnaturally sharp, and I, as a rule, add a minor amount of diffusion in Photoshop to make the final prints look more like a traditional Ilfochrome-style print.

The print is not lacking in tonal range in any way. It has more detail at both the high and low end of the spectrum than a traditional chemical print. It has more fine detail. It is superior in absolutely every way.

I cannot make a print this good from a digital camera file, but I do not doubt that one day I will be able to, because I am making this print from a digital file. One day, camera technology will catch up to scanner technology.

Of course, all of this is inconsequential to this thread, as Adam has stated his preference for film. Sorry for hijacking your thread, Adam, but I had to respond.

Quote:
Another thing that I hate is that because so many people are going for the quick and easy way to do things, everyone new to photography is using that MAX shit. What this means is that Kodak no longer makes Royal Gold 25 film because demand for it has slipped. It was arguably the best film in the world.

This I will heartily agree with, and I'll give you some more bad news: Fuji's Velvia 100F is hitting market shortly, doubtlessly to replace the slower 50 speed Velvia in the long term. And we've already lost Agfa Ultra 50, which is being replaced by Ultra 100. And I shed a number of tears for Agfapan APX 25 when it was canned.

MAX film is designed for lousy cameras that have poor automatic exposure systems in them -- MAX's whole point is to be able to give you a useable image no matter how badly you over or under expose it. Compare it to something like Fuji's NPS or NPC, films with virtually no exposure latitude, where a half stop in the wrong direction could be disastrous.

Now, high speed films have been getting better and better; I shot 40 rolls of NPZ (Fuji's pro 800 speed) in 120 format on my trip to Prague, and the 16x20s are fantastic. Would they be better if they were a slower film? Possibly. Certainly for bigger prints. But I would not have been able to shoot in the variety of conditions that were present.
post #33 of 71
Quote:
Hey Chris, thanks for taking single, isolated quotes from my long, detailed post and trying to make me sound like I'm saying the opposite of what I'm saying. That's very polite of you.


Sorry Aaron, I didn't mean to single you out in any way. I simply responded to the quote, not the person. I have heard it said too many times and I admit I cringe when I hear it. Please don't take it personally. I actually agreed with everything else that you mentioned.

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I'm at a loss here -- I don't understand how the CCD's acceptance of an electrical charge is only a representation where the silver halide's acceptance of an electrical charge (which, to simplify, bonds it to the celluloid) is not.


Because it is the electrical charge in the digital camera that becomes the image (the presence and absence of the charge expressed digitally as zeroes and ones), in which the silver halides are simply bonded by the electrical charge. It's a difference between the electrical charge that adheres them and the electrical charge making up the image.

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One of the biggest drawbacks to digital photography, for me, is the lack of tonal detail --


I agree 100%

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however, many people appreciate this unnatural "smoothness" of the image. It is also considered a positive thing in DVD transfers by many.

Which is why in my opinion a movie theater image is far superior to a DVD image.

Quote:
As to your anal 8x10 comment, I shoot 6x7. 8x10s are the correct ratio for this format. I also agree with the posts above suggesting moving to a cheap medium format system for better images (even a cheap system will give you fantastic results compared to your 35mm stuff).

Which is why I specifically said:

Quote:
let me be the first to chime in and say that there is no such thing as a 'nice 8 X 10' when dealing with 35mm photography

And again, you are absolutely correct about the medium format comparison to 35mm. A bigger negative delivers a better image, of course. But since the topic was 35mm photography I decided not to include mention of my 'blad' camera. As a matter of fact I'll go you one better and say that medium format is immeasurably better than 35mm.

Quote:
The colour prints I make from my 6x7 transparencies are better than any that have been available in the past due to digital technology. I am not some hobbyist doing work in my basement darkroom -- I am on my fifteenth year in the photographic lab industry and on the fourth of owning my own lab. I have produced Cibachromes/Ilfochromes and also done a lot of work with medium and large format internegatives, but the prints I am making now are better.

I am using a Polaroid Sprintscan 120, creating a 500+ megabyte file from my 6x7 transparency. I use Photoshop for colour correction, resizing, and whatever cropping or other adjustment I require. Then I make a print on an Epson 2200. (Our larger work is on an Epson 7500, their older 24" archival printer, but the newer 2200 is significantly better.) The resulting prints are simply stunning, and are much, much better than the best Ilfochromes I have seen for a number of reasons. First, they are far more archival. Second, I have significantly more contrast control. Third, they are sharper, not because of artificial sharpening but because a number of diffusing optical surfaces (the most destructive one being the paper's surface layer) have been eliminated. If I am not careful, the images can be unnaturally sharp, and I, as a rule, add a minor amount of diffusion in Photoshop to make the final prints look more like a traditional Ilfochrome-style print.

The print is not lacking in tonal range in any way. It has more detail at both the high and low end of the spectrum than a traditional chemical print. It has more fine detail. It is superior in absolutely every way.

That's all well and good, but do you expect Adam to start up with all of that?

Quote:
This I will heartily agree with, and I'll give you some more bad news: Fuji's Velvia 100F is hitting market shortly, doubtlessly to replace the slower 50 speed Velvia in the long term. And we've already lost Agfa Ultra 50, which is being replaced by Ultra 100. And I shed a number of tears for Agfapan APX 25 when it was canned.

Doesn't that just make you want to puke???

Quote:
Now, high speed films have been getting better and better; I shot 40 rolls of NPZ (Fuji's pro 800 speed) in 120 format on my trip to Prague, and the 16x20s are fantastic. Would they be better if they were a slower film? Possibly. Certainly for bigger prints. But I would not have been able to shoot in the variety of conditions that were present.

True. Try shooting a canyon sunset at late dusk with 50-speed film (of course mounted on a tripod) with several half gray filters stacked in front of the lens to compensate for the differences in luminance in sky and canyon. I think the shutter was open for about three months...

Didn't mean to offend.
post #34 of 71
Quote:
Because it is the electrical charge in the digital camera that becomes the image (the presence and absence of the charge expressed digitally as zeroes and ones), in which the silver halides are simply bonded by the electrical charge. It's a difference between the electrical charge that adheres them and the electrical charge making up the image.

I don't see the difference. Aside from the lack of resolution as it pertains to both tonal variation and actual resolving power, please explain to me the actual difference in the generated image between these two methods of aquisition.

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Which is why in my opinion a movie theater image is far superior to a DVD image.

Agreed. That's why I don't own a DVD player.

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That's all well and good, but do you expect Adam to start up with all of that?

No, I am merely explaining the actual, real-world experience behind my belief that it is not the method of capture that is causing the difference in image quality, but the actual, quantifiable quality difference between the methods: that film is better than digital, today, not because film is inherently better than digital but because film currently has much higher resolution than digital. When a digital camera can produce an image as good as I get from my scanner (which, admittedly, was close to $4000 when I bought it), then it will be, for all intents and purposes, as good as today's film. Now, since film is still evolving, unless the market shifts in such a way that it is no longer profitable to develop new film technologies, film will also be better than it is now.

But the day that digital cameras produce an image as good as my scanner is coming...just not this week.

I'm annoyed that digital camera resolution is completely measured in pixels-per-inch and not by the variation available in each pixel, which is of far greater importance to a true, photographic image. But hey, when it's a bigger number game, you measure things with the same number your competitor is using and make sure that yours has a few more.

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Doesn't that just make you want to puke???

What really kills me is that the only film that I've carried at the lab that I've had to drop because of poor sales was Ilford Pan-F 50.

I'm not really offended, I was just annoyed that the quote you used came from a paragraph making the same point that you did, but you used it as an launching point for your argument.
post #35 of 71
It seems to me that the writing is on the walls for film cameras. Digital cameras improve year by year and WILL surpass film quality eventually. CCD's WILL improve and new technologies will be developed. It's only a matter of time. For the kinds of pictures I take, vacations, baby pictures, you can't beat digital.

Taking "film" to Wal-Mart to get it "developed", hoping that your pictures turned out just seems too foreign and old-fashioned to me.

This sounds an awful lot like an "LP vs. CD" war.
post #36 of 71
I think it'll be quite a while until CCDs can surpass medium format and be within the realm of affordability. 35mm is one thing, MF is quite another.
post #37 of 71
Quote:
If you are enlarging your images, the only acceptable size to go to from 4X6 is to double both sides. That is to suggest 8X12, not 8X10. I would imagine that you all being Home Theater Forum enthusiasts would understand the importance of maintaining the original aspect ratio.

Oh give me a break. It's rather ridiculous to say with such absolute certainty that there is an "OAR" to a 35mm frame. Professional photographers crop their images ALL the time, even images that they take considerable time to compose. And let's look at some image sizes (which I would assume to be true as to the size of the original print) from my "Ansel Adams at 100" book to see if they are exact multiples/fractions of the 8x10 negatives he used since we all know Ansel Adams would take days to frame a shot so he'd never have to crop any of his precious images:

5 1/2 x 7 1/4
5 3/4 x 7 1/8
5 15/16 x 7 1/8
5 5/8 x 7 3/8

Do any of those have the same AR as 8x10 ? Nope. Sorry.

And if the shot is something that was fleeting or difficult to follow, to say that I can't crop the photo because I couldn't, for example, frame a soaring golden eagle perfectly against the backdrop of Mt. Everest (as I did two months ago in Nepal) in order to make it look better is crazy and I'm going to do it whether or not I do it digitally, in a wet darkroom or pay a lab to do it for me. There is nothing wrong with doing so.

And if your "OAR" theory is true, why don't Kodak, Ilford, Oriental, et al make 8x12 or 16x24 paper instead of 8x10, 11x14 and 16x20 so that people can make borderless prints in the "correct" AR ?
post #38 of 71
Hey Adam.

Are you the same guy I've conversed with over at the Cinematography discussion?


I have plenty of things to say, but might save them for email or PM.


As far as books go, I'm not a big fan of getting all that much knowledge of photography from books. I think they are better to enhance the knowledge you get elsewhere. Photography is a hands on type of thing and I think it is best learned that way. Interaction with a reliable and knowledgable individual is paramount. Having said that, The Joy of Photography has long been regarded as probably the best all around source of general knowledge. The Adams books are excellent, but pretty advanced and basically require processing your own film.


On the digital vs. film front, digital has some obvious advantages in learning photography, but it is also sufficiently different from shooting film that there are plenty of disadvantages as well.
post #39 of 71
Quote:
Oh give me a break. It's rather ridiculous to say with such absolute certainty that there is an "OAR" to a 35mm frame. Professional photographers crop their images ALL the time, even images that they take considerable time to compose. And let's look at some image sizes (which I would assume to be true as to the size of the original print) from my "Ansel Adams at 100" book to see if they are exact multiples/fractions of the 8x10 negatives he used since we all know Ansel Adams would take days to frame a shot so he'd never have to crop any of his precious images:


If you'd bothered to read my post at all instead of just racing to the bottom as fast as you could just so you could post you would take note that I am referring to 35mm film and having someone else develop it for you.

If you are content to shoot 35mm photographic images and then take them to the processor and have some well-meaning hourly paid high school kid make you 8X10's, cropping a full 2 inches off of the image you so carefully framed, then that's your business. Personally, if there is any cropping of my image to be done, I'd rather do it myself.

So what I am saying is if you take photographs with your 35mm camera, and then take them to someone to get them processed (which most people do), and you want enlargements, and you want the final print to represent what you saw in the viewfinder and not be cropped, order 8X12's or a size that properly maintains the aspect ratio of the negative that you shot on. 8X10's are cropped a full 2 inches in respect to what you saw in the viewfinder.

I don't give a shit what Ansel Adams does. He obviously develops his own work. For me, I can frame my shot most of the time and snap the picture and I am done. If I need to photoshop the image and crop it after the fact I am fully capable of doing that as well. But I'll be damned if I'm going to allow another person to reframe my shots after the fact, would you?

Have I made it clear enough this time?
post #40 of 71
I expect Adam has effectively been scared away from his own thread. Why is it every time someone on this forum asks for some advice about photography, a bunch of loudmouths come in and do their best to scare them away from the hobby?


Mark, I used to be a CPC myself and I can attest to the fact that it is no big deal. Someone asked me on the spur of the moment if I wanted to take the test and get certified, and since I had 30 minutes to spare, I figured what the hell. I'm no longer involved with Photo Marketing, so I guess I am no longer officially a CPC.

I've taught photography classes literally all over the country, from Seattle to Corpus Christi to New Haven to Sioux City and was even called in to consult a NASA shuttle engineering team. All this stuff means absolutely nothing if all I do is yell at people about all I know.



I'm sorry to Adam, or whoever else for sounding obnoxious, but Photography has been my entire life. It is also a craft and art that is dying fast and the type of sniping that has gone on in this thread shows part of the reason why. A person comes here asking for assistance and from all I can tell, he has been discouraged more than helped.



Continue your "discussion" and trash me at will.
post #41 of 71
There appears to be some photographic luddites in the vicinity. If you want a very informed opinion from a very experience and very published photographer on the current state of the art of digital photography, see Luminous Landscapes This is some the best photography digital or otherwise you will see.

Cropping to standard paper sizes is very easy with digital and YOU get to pick what part of the photo you want to print, not some lab technician. I just edit everything I want printed in Photoshop and then put them on a R/W CD and drop them off to be printed.

I've used a 4MP Canon G2 and a 6MP D60. They are very comparable to a 35mm in print quality. Of course they're not equivalent to medium format, but neither is APS.

Andy
post #42 of 71
While there's a lot of good, useful information at Luminous Landscape, there is a lot of misinformation, incorrect information, and "placed" information. He is very well paid to speak and evangelize on current trends, and his Medium Format vs. 12 Megapixel Digital shootout results are pretty iffy -- based on the examples he shows on the web.

I do not really want to bash his site (because so much of it is excellent), but just like everything else on the web, take it with a grain of salt and do some additional research.

Again, I don't want to hijack this thread, but anyone who's interested in the deficiencies of his digital vs. medium format arguments, feel free to PM or e-mail me.

I agree that Ansel's books are pretty advanced, and actually I don't find The Camera or The Print as useful as The Negative.

Chris -- cropping is not the only problem when going to an automated lab for enlargements, or even your first 4x6 proofs. Don't forget that colour balance and density will vary wildly from place to place based on how they are set up (and if they are balanced at all for the film you're shooting...try taking a pro film to Wal-Mart, and unless they've got some on-the-ball operators running the place, the images will be worse than from cheap film like MAX, because they just don't know how to print it). Here's where I will once again sing the praises of the digital darkroom. Every year sees the prices drop and the quality increase.

Of course, the digital darkroom is also sounding the death knell for a lot of small labs, and unfortunately they don't see that what is killing them is a lack of quality and expertise -- the high-end customer becomes frustrated and seeks out a new avenue, and invariably ends up printing at home. But for years these labs have been forced into a cheaper, faster production model where quality is not the top priority.
post #43 of 71
Quote:
Chris -- cropping is not the only problem when going to an automated lab for enlargements, or even your first 4x6 proofs. Don't forget that colour balance and density will vary wildly from place to place based on how they are set up (and if they are balanced at all for the film you're shooting...try taking a pro film to Wal-Mart, and unless they've got some on-the-ball operators running the place, the images will be worse than from cheap film like MAX, because they just don't know how to print it). Here's where I will once again sing the praises of the digital darkroom. Every year sees the prices drop and the quality increase.

Agreed.
post #44 of 71
Thanks for getting things back on track a bit Aaron. You bring up a good point I had completely skipped in the arguing, and that is the wild card of labs. I acknowledge there are cost benefits to learning on digital, but I still firmly believe the best way is to start with film. Since Adam says he wants to use film, that is pretty much a moot point anyway. The best way to begin still, to me, is to use slide film for learning. There are many reasons. It is cheaper to process, and not to encourage buying grey market, but you can get 36 exp roles of something like Fuji Sensia II 100 from B&H for under $3.00. You mostly eliminate the unpredictable factor of the lab because you aren't relying on them for prints, and since slide film is in many ways less forgiving than negative films, the things you do will often be exaggerated.

I'll have to take a look at the Luminous Landscape site when I have more time. There is an enormous amount of mis-information out there, particularly as it relates to digital.


You still here Adam? Did you get chased off?
post #45 of 71
Quote:
If you are enlarging your images, the only acceptable size to go to from 4X6 is to double both sides. That is to suggest 8X12, not 8X10. I would imagine that you all being Home Theater Forum enthusiasts would understand the importance of maintaining the original aspect ratio.

It's a lot easier to modify the AR and get acceptable results when you are talking about one still image -- as opposed to 90 minutes or more worth of motion pictures.

Also, if you hold the negatives or "original" digital camera files for your own photos, you can get more original-AR prints at any time. It's not like trying to watch a butchered Pan-and-Scan-only movie, where there is no good way for you to get an OAR version.
post #46 of 71
Thread Starter 
Still here, I've been busy, and when I check HTF I always forget about After Hours, and hit mainly Software and Movies. :p

I didn't get scared off I just forgot about the thread while I had limited computer access over the holiday weekend.

I too think that the best way to go is film, film feels right to me, digital would probably be cheaper, but even though I'm young I'm an old-fashioned sorta guy, I love modern technology, but I equally love older stuff, and there's something to be said for the 60+ yr hand crafted stuff furniture etc my parents have lying around that they inherited and still get heavy use every day. Personally I think film v. digital is a somewhat silly argument, about like whether 700p or 1080i is better or if oxygen free super copper wiring provides a monumentally superior sound to regular cables. :p Not to sound faceticious, but as the more levelheaded in the thread have said, both film and digital have their merits, and I know and understand the basic differences between them, I never asked about that (one of those unclear things in the original post). The merits I'm interested in learning right now are the ones related to celluloid, not pixels.

I don't want (or think) you can really learn photography from books, the reason I asked for books and other written material in the first place is that:
1) I wanted to get a firm handle on the lingo and slang of photography, as well as learn the various technical merits of film cameras so that I could make an informed decision about what I want when I buy one in two months or so.
2) I want to see what has gone before, when I asked about Ansel Addams I was wondering about books that are more about exhibitions of his work, with maybe some commentary (though that's more unnecessary) on why they are so great. I see absolutely no need to waste my time reinventing the wheel while I try to learn this. If I don't have a grasp of both current and past photography, I really have no idea what I want to do and will just be wildly shooting in the dark so to speak.
3) I wanted to learn a more detailed history of photography than the day we spent in American History class. when I get in on a subject, the history of it becomes fascinating to me. case in point, right now I'm reading books on Disney's Nine old men, the pre-code Hollywood movies, and Easy Riders Raging Bulls and enjoying them all, there's quite a lot of material at even the public library (and I haven't even gotten to the local university yet), so I was hoping for a little advice in that direction as well.

Somewhere on this page the thread went over my head and I started skimming, I'll go back over it tomorrow and reply to anything if I need to.

Adam
post #47 of 71
Reading most of this thread as a new Canon digital camera owner, I come to one conclusion. Someone mentioned the CD vs Vinyl comparison... I'll take it a step further, this is exactly like Digital Projectors vs CRTs. I am also a digital projector owner, and I realize that my PJ has shortcomings, but for the money, size, ease of setup/use, etc. it was right for me. The same is true for my camera purchase. I learned how to shoot on my mom's Canon T-70 and developed my own B&W film, but guess what; I havent taken more than a dozen pictures in the last 10 years. Now that I have a camera the size of a pack of sigs, that can hold 120 to 400+ pics on one piece of media, I can delete pics that I know I screwed up and retake, etc. and I havent stunted my photographic skills because I already know how to shoot and develop (as much as I want to learn anyway).
post #48 of 71
and I haven't stunted my photographic skills because I already know how to shoot and develop (as much as I want to learn anyway).
Just thought that deserved repeating. There are many ways that can be interpreted. Of course, the emphasis placed on the final statement is mine. And no Charles, I am not criticizing you. I just want to point out that some people want to learn and develop their skills more completely than others. I expect Charles is in no way claiming that he has already developed his skills as a photographer as far as they possibly can be.

I am actually not rallying for or against either format of photography, but there are many reasons for doing something other than it's ease and low cost. If that weren't the case, nobody would climb Everest. They would just drive up Pike's Peak instead, because it's easier.

I do have to take exception to the CD vs. Vinyl and Digital projection vs. CRT issue. There is virtually no comparison. When you play an album or project an image, you are creating nothing. When you create something, as in photography, what you use to create is really just a collection of tools. Refusing to consider using a particular tool is just as wrong as insisting on using only one or a very small number of tools. Unfortunately, the current trend seems to be tunnelvision toward the benefits of digital and complete denial of the weaknesses.


Sorry, enough preaching.



Also, I'd like to encourage folks to look beyond Ansel Adams where photography is concerned. He is the most well known, and often only known name in photography and while his influence was and probably always will be enormous, particularly from the technical side, he was largely a scientist and there are many others to look to who were much stronger from many aesthetic viewpoints. I recommended "The History of Photography" by Beaumont Newhall to Adam for an extensive book on that subject.
post #49 of 71
Charles:

I don't think there is anything wrong with digital at all. To me, it's another paintbrush in photography, just like 35mm, MF, LF, Polaroid, electronic flash and so forth. The instant gratification provided by digital is both a blessing and a curse. For those keen on improving their photographic skills, getting the image right away speeds up the learning process. Experimentation with lighting, composition, colors, and filters is much easier and cheaper. However, it is also breeding a generation of snapshooters, completely trigger happy and lacking any thought process. "I'll just fire away, and dump the shitty ones."

Good photographic skills are learned when things are slowed down to a crawl. No zoom lens, no auto focus, no filters, just you, your camera, a simple subject, and the willingness to see the egg in 20 different ways. But that won't sell in this day and age will it?
post #50 of 71
So true, Ryan.





Reminds me of one of the best pieces of advice on how to improve your photography.


Use a tripod.



Not because of the tripod itself, but because it tends to make the photographer slow down. Faster is often not better. Ask most any woman. :p)
post #51 of 71
I dont know that digital necessarily promotes point and pray any more than any other medium. I've seen a few true professional photographers work, and I've seen some of them go through a roll of film in 60 seconds. Dont tell me that all those photos were "good".

I will say I am still learning my camera though. I took it on a hike yesterday in Thunderbird Park outside Phoenix (I'm in AZ on biz) and my percentage of good shots was horrible IMHO, but I dont know that I would have done any better with the "real" camera that I learned on considering I havent shot in 10 years. I did come up with (IMHO) 3 shots that I am very happy with. I signed up for photo.net, but I dont have any photo editing software on my laptop and so all my pics are over both their 800 pixel width and 100k file size restrictions so I will have to upload them when I get home.
post #52 of 71
John I am not yelling at people for all I know about photography. you and I are the same in the way that we have taught classes and have done many useful things in the photographic world. The fact that some people on this thread pick up a camera take some pictures and automatically assume that they are photographers.
post #53 of 71
Having majored in Photography in college, been published, and won awards locally, I would definately agree with Mark Sherman. There is obviously a place for digital, and it makes more sense to use digital in certain situations, or certain types of photography (sports, photojournalism, etc.), however to learn the true art of photography, and composition and lighting, I would undoubtedly recommend film. Also, there are definate lessons to be learned by making mistakes, and if it costs you something (monetarily, time, anguish) those lessons are more easily remembered.

If you had the choice of doing something right the first time and doing something half-assed but then being able to fix it later, I think most people would prefer to learn how to do it right.
post #54 of 71
Mark, sorry if I got carried away with you, but I definitely did feel you were being close minded about the big picture and the benefits of differents photographic mediums. Some other photographers I know locally would be amazed to see me touting any benefits of digital, since most of them seem convinced I am too much of a purist to consider digital useful at all. I do shoot digital occasionally, when it makes sense, but for what I do it usually doesn't.


Kind of getting back on track, not necessarily on Adam's first question, but for some of the other people who have responded here. There is an issue nobody has really touched on with the financial benefits of digital. The equipment is significantly more expensive than equivalent film equipment. You can spend $500-$700 on a digital camera with the capabilities of a film camera that would cost $150. You will have to shoot a lot of film before you catch up with that difference. If you want an SLR, you are talking a minimum $2,000 for a body when you can get a equivalent film SLR body used for 1/10 that. That's a truck load of film and processing. In fact, you could equip an entire 35mm darkroom and shoot and process a few hundred bulk loaded rolls before you made up the difference.


Craig, where did you study Photography?
post #55 of 71
Oh yeah......

If you had the choice of doing something right the first time and doing something half-assed but then being able to fix it later, I think most people would prefer to learn how to do it right.
Unfortunately, that has definitely not been my experience. In fact, there is a little inside joke between me and a guy I do video production with. Whenever there is something that takes a little extra effort to get right we jokingly say, "ah, we'll just fix it in Photoshop" because we hear people say that so often.
post #56 of 71
Thanks Craig, Finally someone who knows the benefit of learning by doing.



Digital does have a place in the Photography world. there are some incredible digital cameras on the market now. whether they are the PHD(push here dummy) or the highly advanced SLRs of the world. Learning a craft with the basics of basics is the way to start.
post #57 of 71
As a published photographer (twice now!) I think Craig's statements are 100% true. I only do digital now but I wouldn't be half as comfortable with it without having started with film. And film is still my favorite for the true artistic type stuff.
post #58 of 71
Finally someone who knows the benefit of learning by doing.
Guess I've made another enemy.



Don't worry Mark, I'm not taking it badly. I annoy a lot of people.



If the important thing is what you studied in college, where you studied, whether or not you graduated, what awards you've won, where and how often you've been published, what certifications you have, etc, etc. I'd be more than happy to trade stats with anyone here. I don't think most of those things really indicate much when it comes to photography. But that's just me.
post #59 of 71
BTW Craig, I just realized I skimmed right past what you said. I completely agree with you as well. I do believe digital currently is still best for sports and journalism, like you said, as well as catalog work and stuff shot solely for web use. The better equipment is still far too expensive and delicate for a lot of other work, as far as I'm concerned. I have shot film in a driving rain, even on Large Format, though that pissed me off big time. Can you imagine shooting with a LF scanning back under those circumstances? All the highest resolution digital equipment still uses slow scanning to capture the image, which can be a serious disadvantage in certain cases.
post #60 of 71
I think we must recognize the different levels of "photographers" here.

1) There is obviously the PHD (as Mark so eloquently put it) type, then there is a level obove that that have slightly more skill and maybe nicer cameras, but in these classes, I would say that these people are interested in capturing memories. Many of the shots will just be of people, or places they've been, etc. Being artistic does not enter into the equeation.

2) Then you have people that own nice cameras because they want to take nice pictures. Whether they do or not is a different issue, but the intent is there.

3) The next group might be true hobbiests. People who are only separated from professional photographers by the fact that they dont earn a living from it. They may develop some of their own film, etc.

4) Then there are pros.

I think that there is room for digital and film cameras in all these categories, but the types would differ for each. I would say I fall into the 2.25 range. I made a concious effort to buy a nicer, more expensive (digital) camera, I have already learned the very basics (but certainly dont have comprehensive knowledge even of sub-subjects of photography).

I think this type of person is actually the most suited for nicer consumer grade digital cams. Why? Well, they are more likely to burn a lot of "film" because they are making a concious effort to be creative. They arent the kind of person who is going to get a roll of film developed on the 4th of July and half the roll is Christmas pictures. But, they are not as likely to be as committed so they may not be as willing to spend a lot of money on developing film when many of the shots may be experimental. Additionally, They arent likely to be as "traditional" as pros or semi-pros. To use an audio analogy, they may know enough to know the advantages of an expensive, well setup vinyl rig, but simply arent willing to deal with the setup, maintenance, tweaking, balancing, etc.
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