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11-07-2005, 08:20 PM
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#1 of 10 
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Sub speaker level input?
Can you hook the speaker level input up in parallel?
In other words not have any satalites/speakers plugged into the output, but have your mains hooked up to them in parallel?
I have been try'n to find a way to apply the DLS5000R DSP to my older CHT15 and still use the amp in the older CHT15.
It does seem a speaker level connection could do the trick.
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11-07-2005, 11:32 PM
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#2 of 10
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Location: San Jose, Ca.
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I don't follow your question? The speaker level inputs strip off signal and use the internal amp, it does not use the power from the speaker wires. How would that help the second sub? The speaker level outputs are most likely fixed high pass.
"The trouble with the world is not that people know too little, but that they know so many things that ain't so." - Mark Twain
HT: Marantz SR-8300, MA500 monoblocks x 2, 5X GR Research A/V-2s, Adire Audio Tempest sub, Denon 2900, Oppo 980H, Toshiba HD-A2, RC2000MkII remote, Panamax 5100, Panamax Max2 sub, Slim PS2, PS3 60G + 320G USB
Bedroom: Marantz PM-7200 Integrated, GR Research A/V-1s, Sony 222ES SACD, RC3200 remote, Panamax M8EX
Audio: Audioquest * Video: Bluejeans
My DVDs  My HT
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11-08-2005, 05:30 AM
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#3 of 10
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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Not use the speaker level outputs of the CHT15 at all, just the input. Take the speaker level output from the DLS50000R while still connected to it's driver, at the driver itself and hook it to the speaker level input on the CHT15 as well. I am not talking about the standard post cross speaker level output on the back of DLS5000R, I was talking about taking it at the driver itself on the inside.
Sorry I was not more clear. That way I get the DLS5000R DSP into my CHT15 and still use the amp as well.
I was just checking, I understand the impeadence is so high on those speaker level inputs it should not effect the DLS5000R in any way, I just wanted to make sure it was OK, not to hook any speakers to the speaker level / sat / post cross output on the CHT15 and only use that as an input.
Would be equivelent to running the subs speaker level inputs parallel to a set of mains.
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11-08-2005, 10:17 AM
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#4 of 10
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I kind of thought that's what you meant, but wasn't sure. The DSP would be tailored to the 5000 though, so would it be correct for the CHT15 also? In theory, it would work would be my guess.
"The trouble with the world is not that people know too little, but that they know so many things that ain't so." - Mark Twain
HT: Marantz SR-8300, MA500 monoblocks x 2, 5X GR Research A/V-2s, Adire Audio Tempest sub, Denon 2900, Oppo 980H, Toshiba HD-A2, RC2000MkII remote, Panamax 5100, Panamax Max2 sub, Slim PS2, PS3 60G + 320G USB
Bedroom: Marantz PM-7200 Integrated, GR Research A/V-1s, Sony 222ES SACD, RC3200 remote, Panamax M8EX
Audio: Audioquest * Video: Bluejeans
My DVDs My HT
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11-08-2005, 11:37 AM
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#5 of 10
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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No problems electrically though in the attempt?
It is true that the DSP is tailord for the DLS5000R, but I do feel it can only offer improvement on the older CHT15.
There is talk of being able to reprogram a prom on these DLS5000R's to give a totally room custom EQ. I am considering the option. Pretty new by the techno hackers though, I'd like to read of others experience doing it first. 
If that comes to fruition and does not cost to much, that really would add to the overall value of the DLS line. |
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11-08-2005, 01:17 PM
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#6 of 10
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If you want to use the amp in the CHT15 you shouldn't be hooking both up at the driver. You should be sending the line out signal from the DLS5000R to the CHT15's line level input.
If you hook up both drivers in parallel to the DLS5000R amp then you're bypassing the CHT15 amp (at least you SHOULD be - disconnect the wire connections from the CHT15 amp).
Just looking back at your original post. It_sounds like_you want to use the DSP from the DLS5000R and apply it to the CHT15 but still utilize the CHT15 amp to drive it. If you're trying to drive both with the DLS5000R I'd agree with John. Theory should work. Not sure how the DLS5000R limiters will react with another driver in the mix. If this were me, I would rather get an outboard DSP like a BFD before I go rewiring a new piece of equipment in hopes of shimming in an old sub.
Let us know how it pans out. Good luck.
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11-08-2005, 02:04 PM
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#7 of 10
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MikeNg, he is talking about taking wires from the new subs driver connections (actually at the subwoofer driver) and runnign that as a speaker level input into his older sub. His older sub has speaker level inputs that have a high impeadance. They just convert speaker level into line level and then the internal amp does its job. In theory his idea should work. Its a little goofy in practice but should work |
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11-08-2005, 02:21 PM
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#8 of 10
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Join Date: Nov 2003
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Yes, as goofy as it sounds. That is my plan.
I can't think of any other way to do it.
The DLS line out is post cross over, so no line level that it sends to the main amp is really available here. Right now I am just Y'n it out and using both, it works great, but thinking of the advantages the DSP seems to make in the DLS sub is all.
Seems easy enough to try anyways. Crossing fingers. |
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11-08-2005, 03:11 PM
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#9 of 10
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Member
Location: San Jose, Ca.
Join Date: Jun 1999
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You could use a speaker level to line level converter to take it to the CHT.
"The trouble with the world is not that people know too little, but that they know so many things that ain't so." - Mark Twain
HT: Marantz SR-8300, MA500 monoblocks x 2, 5X GR Research A/V-2s, Adire Audio Tempest sub, Denon 2900, Oppo 980H, Toshiba HD-A2, RC2000MkII remote, Panamax 5100, Panamax Max2 sub, Slim PS2, PS3 60G + 320G USB
Bedroom: Marantz PM-7200 Integrated, GR Research A/V-1s, Sony 222ES SACD, RC3200 remote, Panamax M8EX
Audio: Audioquest * Video: Bluejeans
My DVDs My HT
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11-08-2005, 03:52 PM
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#10 of 10 | |
